Chinese Alarm Lock/unlock not triggering?

Hey guys, I have a 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer. My car has central lock but no keyless entry.

I purchased a chinese alarm off ebay.

I found the lock/unlock wire by using a DMM. I set it to 12v dc. I put black to ground and red to test wires. On one wire, when I unlock the car, it shows 12V and then goes to zero and when I lock, on the other wire it shows 12v and then goes to zero. My car has a negative door lock system.

I hook the Green wire from the chinese alarm to lock wire on the car harness and orange wire to unlock.

Here is a pic of the chinese alarm.





Everything works except for the door lock and unlock with remote. What am I doing wrong?

I won't be wiring starter kill relay and not use trunk release.

Please help me out.

One thing i forgot to mention: if I unlock the car with the key from the passenger side, all door are unlocked except for the driver side. However, if I unlock the car with the key from the driver side, then all four doors are unlocked. I'm talking about unlocking from outside the car with the key, not from inside.

What does this mean? Is this why wiring lock/unlock wires directly from the alarm to central lock of car not working?

It sounds to me like you found the actual door lock actuator wires. These are high current wires that connect to the solenoids that actually make the doors physically lock and unlock. From the limited amount you show from the manual your alarm outputs a low current (-) signal.

To test for the low current door lock control wires in a negative trigger locking system you should put your red lead on a 12vdc source and use the black lead to probe the wires. When you find the correct wires the meter will go to 12vdc.

For a 2004 Lancer:

POWER LOCK      PURPLE or YELLOW (TYPE B)      IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL, HARNESS TO REAR OF VEHICLE      

POWER UNLOCK      LIGHT GREEN/ RED or LIGHT GREEN (TYPE B)      IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL, HARNESS TO REAR OF VEHICLE

If you have, in fact, found the actuator wires you could make them work, but you would need to add relays - something that is not required at all when you do it the correct way.

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Kevin Pierson

Thank you a lot for your help mate. :) I tested the wires with a multi meter with the black lead to ground and red to test the wire. On the multimeter, it shows 0v but when I unlock or lock the car, depending on the two wires I found, when I press lock/unlock from dr5iver side door, the voltage goes to 12v quickly and back to zero. Is that the wrong way of doing it?

Here's the PDF version of the alarm I'm installing. You can DL it from dropbox:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/17323329/ZJ213600ENmanual.pdf

If you did go to the motor wires you've probably fried the alarm's lock circuit by now.
There's actually a much easier way to test for the lock triogger wires.
Use a Snap-On or similar incandescant bulb test light, clip to ground then probe end to suspect wire, you'll probably need to throw the catch at the rear of the door and remove key from ignition switch.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie, is there any way to test the alarm main unit itself to find if I've fried the lock circuit?

Test light or DMM set red probe or test light clip to a constant 12V+ , other side to suspect wire on alarm lock and unlock you should either get illumination or 12V+ on your DMM if working. Obviously do one at a time.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok guys, based on what KPierson told me, I'm getting four wires. Two of them when I unlock or lock respectively, from 12volt goes to almost 0 volts(sometime 5 volts) and then goes back to 12 volts.

The other two wires, when I lock or unlock go from 12volt to zero and remains at zero until I lock or unlock then goes back to 12 volts.

Which wires should I connect to my chinese alarm system? Also do I need to connect both unlock/lock wires to the alarm or can I connect only one, i.e either lock or unlock to test with the remote if it's working? Can the doors be left open while testing? Thanks

You would want to connect to the wires that pulse. You should be able to simulate this by applying a ground, through a ~100 ohm resistor, to the wire in question. If they are the correct wires the doors should lock and unlock when grounded through the resistor. The resistor is key because, if they are the wrong wires, it will restrict the amount of current and drastically lower the chances of damaging anything.

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Kevin Pierson

Also, after trying to figure out why it wasnt working, I notice that on my driver door, right next to the power window control buttons, there is no lock/unlock switch. So when testing I press the physical lock/unlock button right next to the handle that opens the door. Is this why I'm having all this issue?

So I continue to read on the 12volt forum and it says:

If there are no external door lock switches, you will most likely have a vacuum type system or an *aftermarket door lock system with relays, or have an added actuator that needs relays.

So I figured out I would use the actuator diagram b/c my car being Mitsubishi which is japanese is very unlikely to have vaccumm type door lock.



I wire the lock/unjlock wire of the alarm to two relays like in the above picture and I connect only one function first, the unlock just to test, but when i press the remote, it doesn't unlock, instead it blows the fuse of the alarm system.

Stop overthinking, throw away the DMM, get an incandescant bulb test light make one up or buy from Snap-On etc.
Clip to ground probe suspected wire this should operate the lock and unlock then take the lock and unlock wires from that alarm, clip to 12V+ constnt other side to each wire and try the alarm I did I tell you this a few weeks ago? Oh yes 29th. October and 2nd. November. Old school very simple to install.
2 Problems you're using a piece of junk alarm and you're in over your head and not listening.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ebay

Are we talking about this? If not, then link one from ebay for me. I read somewhere not to use a test light as it can damage circuit...etc

https://www./itm/Car-Voltage-Circuit-Tester-For-long-6V-12V-DC-System-Probe-Continuity-Test-Light-/231764223143?hash=item35f63964a7:g:S1MAAOSwpRRWmKh3&item=231764223143&vxp=mtr

Link in the above post seems not to be working.

Yes. Just don't use it on airbag looms or twisted pairs of thin wires.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.