Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2013 Subaru Outback Compustar 7000as Blade-al

Hi I decided to install a Compustar 7000as Remote starter/alarm system in my 2013 Subaru Outback 2.5L. I managed to get the remote starter installed so that the starter will attempt to crank the engine over, but it will not stay running. When I installed the blade-al, the light on the blade just blinked red.

I made the following connections:
High Current Ignition Harness:
Black to Ground
Green to Green (ignition)
Yellow to WHITE/ Black wire at starter solenoid
Blue to Blue (blower motor)
White to Yellow (accessory)
Red to White or constant 12v
Green White to Black Blue parking light wire behind drivers side fuse panel
Red to White or constant 12v

CN5 (Gray Plug)
Yellow/Black (Tach in) to fuel injector wire
Gray/Black (hood in) to hood switch
BROWN / White (keysense in) to BLACK/ White at A4
RED / White (Door Trigger In) to Blue White at C14
Blue (Unlock Out) to BROWN / Black at C20
Blue/Green (Lock Out) to BROWN / White at C9
Light Blue/White (Food Brake In) to BROWN / White at A10
White (Horn Out) to Red at A24
Brown (Siren Out) to Red Siren Wire

Everything seems to work fine other than anything associated with the blade. The light on the blade flashes red whether if the car is running or shut off. I am wondering if anyone out there has any experience with these Subarus so that I can figure out what I am doing wrong with this thing.

I tried to connect the blade-al harness with the following connections:
BROWN / Red (Can H) to pin 6 OBDII connector
BROWN / Yellow (Can L) to pin 14 OBDII connector

For the following IMMO data connection I unplugged plug A and cut wire 31.
WHITE/ Red (IMMO Data Vehicle Side) connected to pin 31 vehicle side
ORANGE / Black (IMMO Data Vehicle Side) connected to pin 31 vehicle side
WHITE/ Black (IMMO Data Connector Side) connected to pin 31 connector side

For Keyless I unplugged plug D and cut wire 11
Blue / YELLOW (Keyless Relay Output) connected to vehicle side
GREEN/ Red (Keyless Data Output) connected to connector side

Security Light is also on Plug D wire 26. For that I cut that wire and wired it as follows:
Gray/Red (Security Light) connected to connector side
ORANGE / White (Security Light Vehicle Side) connected to vehicle side of wire

Those wires for the blade harness were wired so that the connections that are needed for the blade go through the blade in a serial like connection. That seems to be my thinking why they show a scissors in the instructions meaning that they want you to cut the wire that goes to that plug and one wire goes on one side and another wire goes on the other side to force the information to go through the 7000as.

The only issues that I have are with this blade harness. After making those connections I blew a hazzard fuse which caused my blinkers, headlights, hazzards to stop working while the AT Trans oil light was on and I also could not put the car in reverse.

Does anyone have what I am doing wrong or any experience with installing this on 2013 or 2014 Subaru Outback? I have been working on this for a week and have been doing a lot of research by searching these forums and google to no avail. Any help is much appreciated.

Blade-al wiring instructions

Going by the BLADE-AL(DL)-SUB3 install guide, a Red flashing Blade LED with the Ignition OFF means incorrectly
programmed Blade. A few questions :

1.) Was the Blade module flashed with the BLADE-AL(DL)-SUB3 firmware?
2.) Did you follow the programming steps and get the correct indications during programming? Programming includes
     the KLON process using the CM7000 module w/Blade, the ADS USB cable and a PC w/internet access.

If all your wiring is correct, you could try doing a Factory Reset on the Blade and starting the programming again.

I do have a few problems with your wiring.
1.) Did you include the Keyless relay as shown in the Type 3 diagram?
2.) You went directly to the Starter solenoid instead of adding a 30/40 AMP SPDT relay and power both of the
     Starter circuits at the ignition switch as shown in the diagram. While your method might work ( never tried it
     that way ), I would suggest following the install guide wiring exactly.

Did replacing the Hazard fuse correct all the issues you mentioned? Typically, I make all my connections without
unplugging any BIU ( BCM ) connectors.

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Soldering is fun!

duringng Programming-During Remote Start-With ignition oFF
Flashing RED Missing/wrong information from
firmware or vehicle Incorrectly programmed or Incorrectly connected.

did you get the flashers to work when you replaced the fuse ?
double check your can wire connections,a broken can wire can cause crazy issues .

kreg357 wrote:

Going by the BLADE-AL(DL)-SUB3 install guide, a Red flashing Blade LED with the Ignition OFF means incorrectly
programmed Blade. A few questions :

1.) Was the Blade module flashed with the BLADE-AL(DL)-SUB3 firmware?
2.) Did you follow the programming steps and get the correct indications during programming? Programming includes
     the KLON process using the CM7000 module w/Blade, the ADS USB cable and a PC w/internet access.

If all your wiring is correct, you could try doing a Factory Reset on the Blade and starting the programming again.

I do have a few problems with your wiring.
1.) Did you include the Keyless relay as shown in the Type 3 diagram?
2.) You went directly to the Starter solenoid instead of adding a 30/40 AMP SPDT relay and power both of the
     Starter circuits at the ignition switch as shown in the diagram. While your method might work ( never tried it
     that way ), I would suggest following the install guide wiring exactly.

Did replacing the Hazard fuse correct all the issues you mentioned? Typically, I make all my connections without
unplugging any BIU ( BCM ) connectors.

The module was not flashed. It blinked red from the start which it should not do if its working right. I tried to hook it up to a usb cable for the heck of it but their software did not recognize it. I think that may be due to the fact that its supposed to first turn on and blink blue once, red, and blue twice which this never did. It just flashed red.

I have tried a factory reset, just blinks red.

I did not include the keyless relay. Is it within the same area under the steering wheel?

Yeah, I went directly to the starter solenoid just because starter 1 and 2 for some reason did not seem to turn over the starter when hot was applied. The dash would light up 3 times and the starter would never kick in.

I may have to look into setting up that relay. A relay did come with the 7000as but I was not sure how it would be hooked up. I have hooked up relays before, just not this one.

prdjr165 wrote:

duringng Programming-During Remote Start-With ignition oFF
Flashing RED Missing/wrong information from
firmware or vehicle Incorrectly programmed or Incorrectly connected.

did you get the flashers to work when you replaced the fuse ?
double check your can wire connections,a broken can wire can cause crazy issues .

Yes, I unhooked the blade harness and connected those wires back to the way they were from the factory and replaced the fuse. For now it has seemed to fix those issues.

I might be misinterpreting your info and replies a bit. Please excuse me if I am.

The Compustar CM7000as is a R/S system that includes keyless entry and alarm functions. It also has a docking port
for the iDatalink ADS Blade module.

The ADS Blade cartridge is a module that is designed to cover many functions for many vehicles. It is flashed with
specific firmware that sets it up to interface with a specific vehicle in a specific way. There are hundreds of different
firmwares that can be flashed on to the module. Your 2013 Subaru Outback needs the ADS Blade-AL(DL)-SUB3 firmware.
The process of flashing the Blade cartridge is as follows :
1. Insert the Blade AL cartridge into the Compustar CM700as slot.
2. Plug the ADS USB cable into the correct 4 Pin port CN7.
3. Plug the ADS USB cable into your PC and sign on the ADS's WEBLink site.
4. Wait until the site recognizes your CM7000as and Blade cartridge.
5. Select your vehicle and flash the firmware.

At this point you can configure the Blade module and certain programming features on the CM7000as module.

Next you would disconnect the CM7000as from the ADS USB cable and plug in all the connectors necessary for your
vehicle install. Next comes inserting the fuses and programming the Blade to the vehicle.
Part of the vehicle programming process has you disconnect all the harnesses on the CM7000as and plugging
in the ADS USB cable for the KLON process. KLON is what makes a copy of the transponder chip info and writes
it back into the Blade module for use during a remote start.

Photo of ADS USB cable :

posted_image

Is this what you are doing?

Compustar and iDatalink put together a very comprehensive install guide and diagram to make the install go smoothly,
not harm your vehicle and ensure reliable operation. Deviating from this guide doesn't make sense. If a relay or
diode is shown in the diagram, it's included for a very valid reason.

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

I might be misinterpreting your info and replies a bit. Please excuse me if I am.

The Compustar CM7000as is a R/S system that includes keyless entry and alarm functions. It also has a docking port
for the iDatalink ADS Blade module.

The ADS Blade cartridge is a module that is designed to cover many functions for many vehicles. It is flashed with
specific firmware that sets it up to interface with a specific vehicle in a specific way. There are hundreds of different
firmwares that can be flashed on to the module. Your 2013 Subaru Outback needs the ADS Blade-AL(DL)-SUB3 firmware.
The process of flashing the Blade cartridge is as follows :
1. Insert the Blade AL cartridge into the Compustar CM700as slot.
2. Plug the ADS USB cable into the correct 4 Pin port CN7.
3. Plug the ADS USB cable into your PC and sign on the ADS's WEBLink site.
4. Wait until the site recognizes your CM7000as and Blade cartridge.
5. Select your vehicle and flash the firmware.

At this point you can configure the Blade module and certain programming features on the CM7000as module.

Next you would disconnect the CM7000as from the ADS USB cable and plug in all the connectors necessary for your
vehicle install. Next comes inserting the fuses and programming the Blade to the vehicle.
Part of the vehicle programming process has you disconnect all the harnesses on the CM7000as and plugging
in the ADS USB cable for the KLON process. KLON is what makes a copy of the transponder chip info and writes
it back into the Blade module for use during a remote start.

Photo of ADS USB cable :

Is this what you are doing?

Compustar and iDatalink put together a very comprehensive install guide and diagram to make the install go smoothly,
not harm your vehicle and ensure reliable operation. Deviating from this guide doesn't make sense. If a relay or
diode is shown in the diagram, it's included for a very valid reason.

It will not accept my blade yet. I think I need to connect the wire for keyless relay to the keyless relay. I just have to find it near the steering wheel. I seen a couple of them by the fuse panel so I just to find the right one.

I am also looking the instructions that came with the 7000a and I am going to try using the relay that they gave with it.

Does anyone know where the keyless relay is at for the 2013 Outback? I am trying to find it by listening for a clicking noise when I hit the unlock button. I found a gray relay with 8 wires going to it which seems to be the flasher. But I still can not find the keyless relay even after doing some google searching.

The "keyless relay" shown on the Type 3 wiring diagram on Page 10 of 16 is not part of the vehicle. It is an extra
relay that you must supply. It does not have to be a 30/40 Amp relay. I would use a 12V mini-relay found on EBay
that can handle 10 amps. They go for about $2. You could get a DEI 8616 prewired relay for about $6.

And yes, you can use the FT-ELock Relay for the keyless relay in the diagram. Wire as follows :
Red wire to +12V constant through 3 amp fuse
Purple wire BLUE / YELLOW - KEYLESS RELAY (-) OUTPUT
Yellow/Black wire to Keyless wire - body side
Yellow wire to Keyless wire - connector side ( same wire as GREEN/ Red Keyless (Data) output

Of course this still leaves the Starter2 circuit and the KLON portion of the Blade bypass module programming as issues.

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

The "keyless relay" shown on the Type 3 wiring diagram on Page 10 of 16 is not part of the vehicle. It is an extra
relay that you must supply. It does not have to be a 30/40 Amp relay. I would use a 12V mini-relay found on EBay
that can handle 10 amps. They go for about $2. You could get a DEI 8616 prewired relay for about $6.

And yes, you can use the FT-ELock Relay for the keyless relay in the diagram. Wire as follows :
Red wire to +12V constant through 3 amp fuse
Purple wire BLUE / YELLOW - KEYLESS RELAY (-) OUTPUT
Yellow/Black wire to Keyless wire - body side
Yellow wire to Keyless wire - connector side ( same wire as GREEN/ Red Keyless (Data) output

Of course this still leaves the Starter2 circuit and the KLON portion of the Blade bypass module programming as issues.

There is a relay supplied with the 7000as which I hooked up according to the instructions in the manual, but it did not work. I had the same issue. It would turn the ignition on 3 times and give me a start error 8. So I disconnected the relay and put it back to how I had it with the starter green wire going directly to the solenoid and now it works again.

Can I use the relay that came with the 7000as for keyless? It has ports 30, 85, 86 and 87. I'm going to try to wire that relay for my keyless as according to idadalinks guide since I am not going to use it for the remote start part.

The starter 2 wire is WHITE/ green, but I am not sure what its used for and thought I did not need it.

Now I have the blade harness connected to the keyless relay and other wires as it instructs and it still flashes red.

That,I believe is due to the Blade / vehicle programming.

Guess I will be real specific.

1.) Are you sure that the ADS Blade AL(DL)-SUB3 firmware is flashed on to the Blade module? How do you know this?

2.) Do you have the ADS USB cable ( previously pictured ) to do the second part of the Blade bypass module programming ( KLON process )? This is not optional, it is mandatory for the transponder bypass function.

3.) If you answered yes to the above 2 questions, did the entire programming process go as per the install guide instructions?

4.) If you answered yes to questions 1 and 2 and No to Question #3, have you tried a Factory Reset on the Blade cartridge? Also recheck all your connections ( they should be properly soldered and insulated ).

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Soldering is fun!

Can I use the relay that came with the 7000as for keyless? It has ports 30, 85, 86 and 87. I'm going to try to wire that relay for my keyless as according to idadalinks guide since I am not going to use it for the remote start part.

Answer : No. The relay you need for the Keyless Relay must have Pin 87A. In the un-energized state, the relay must allow the Keyless signal to pass normally. When energized, the relay disconnects the Keyless signal and permits the Blade to inject its' own data signal.

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

That,I believe is due to the Blade / vehicle programming.

Guess I will be real specific.

1.) Are you sure that the ADS Blade AL(DL)-SUB3 firmware is flashed on to the Blade module? How do you know this?

2.) Do you have the ADS USB cable ( previously pictured ) to do the second part of the Blade bypass module programming ( KLON process )? This is not optional, it is mandatory for the transponder bypass function.

3.) If you answered yes to the above 2 questions, did the entire programming process go as per the install guide instructions?

4.) If you answered yes to questions 1 and 2 and No to Question #3, have you tried a Factory Reset on the Blade cartridge? Also recheck all your connections ( they should be properly soldered and insulated ).

1. I did not flash anything to the blade-al.
2. I do have the usb cable for it.
3. Initial programming did not go as according to the instructions since it just flashes red. I can not go anywhere from there to program it.
4. I have tried a factory reset and it just flashes red.

kreg357 wrote:

Can I use the relay that came with the 7000as for keyless? It has ports 30, 85, 86 and 87. I'm going to try to wire that relay for my keyless as according to idadalinks guide since I am not going to use it for the remote start part.

Answer : No. The relay you need for the Keyless Relay must have Pin 87A. In the un-energized state, the relay must allow the Keyless signal to pass normally. When energized, the relay disconnects the Keyless signal and permits the Blade to inject its' own data signal.

I think I must have red those numbers wrong. This relay that came with the 7000as has ports 30, 85, 86, 87a and 87.

Would this relay work any different for this blade module than the one that came with the 7000as even though it has the pins that the instructions want?

Looks like it won't allow a link to ebay. Will item number 93207086168 from ebay work any different than the relay I am using now from the 7000as?
DEI 8616 MINI CIRCUIT RELAY 20/10 AMP PREWIRED DIRECTED FOR CAR ALARM SYSTEM

https://www.ebay dot com/itm/DEI-8616-MINI-CIRCUIT-RELAY-20-10-AMP-PREWIRED-DIRECTED-FOR-CAR-ALARM-SYSTEM-/131214639487?hash=item1e8d00817f:g:-e4AAOSwENxXl9Ca

If the relay has Pins 85, 86, 87A and 30 you are good to go with the Keyless relay. You only need Pins 85, 86, 87A and
30 as shown in the diagram. Pin 87 would not be used. The EBay relay will work for this application, too.

For the Starter2 circuit, you need a 30/40 Amp relay with Pin 85, 86, 87 and 30. The most commonly available relay is a
SPDT and it has all 5 pins ( 85, 86, 87, 87A and 30 ). Here is the wiring for Starter2 :
Relay Pin 85 to CM700as CN 5-19 (-) Start Output
Relay Pin 86 and 87 to +12V constant through 20 Amp fuse
Relay Pin 30 to Starter2 in Outback at ignition switch harness
Relay Pin 87A not used

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Soldering is fun!

The remaining problem is the Blade AL cartridge. Apparently it does not have the correct firmware on it. As it
currently stands it will not work. Kind of like installing a new, raw, low level formatted hard drive into your PC
and expecting it to boot up with Windows 10 ready to load applications. Hard drives aren't sold that way and neither
are Blade AL bypass cartridges.

The Blade AL must have ADS Blade AL(DL)-SUB3 firmware flashed on it. That means you need the ADS USB cable and
authorized access to the the Flashlick WEB site. I already posted the ADS USB cable you need. Here is a link for
iDatalink registration : https://www.idatalink.com/weblink/user/registration

You could try bringing the CM700as with Blade AL cartridge installed to a local BestBuy with a box of doughnuts.
They might help you out but for your Subaru it is a 2 step flash process because of the needed KLON flash. First
the firmware flash and then at Step 5 through 8, you must reconnect the CM7000as w/Blade to the ADS USB cable for
KLON Extended programming. This is all detailed on Page 15 of 16 in the install guide.

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Soldering is fun!

So the blade tells the relay when to block the keyless signal so the blade can inject its own. This is a DEI 8616 relay that I need. I found it on ebay, but would any type of store actually carrry something like this? Otherwise I just have to wait for shipping from ebay.

I believe most better auto parts stores carry the full size 30/40 Amp Bosch style relays. They can be used for both
applications, the Keyless relay and the Starter2 relay. The Directed 8616 relay can only be used for the Keyless
function due to its' 10 Amp rating. Either way you must wait for the ADS USB cable unless you can find a local shop
willing to do the initial firmware flash and the KLON flash.

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

I believe most better auto parts stores carry the full size 30/40 Amp Bosch style relays. They can be used for both
applications, the Keyless relay and the Starter2 relay. The Directed 8616 relay can only be used for the Keyless
function due to its' 10 Amp rating. Either way you must wait for the ADS USB cable unless you can find a local shop
willing to do the initial firmware flash and the KLON flash.

I already have the usb cable. I ordered a relay off ebay. I just have to wait a few days for it to get here and hopefully that will allow the blade to function.

If you have the cable, sign in and do the firmware flash. You can also do some module configuration. It should be possible to program the Blade to the car and do the KLON process without the Starter2 relay but everything else done.

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

If you have the cable, sign in and do the firmware flash. You can also do some module configuration. It should be possible to program the Blade to the car and do the KLON process without the Starter2 relay but everything else done.

I tried. Their software did not seem to recognize it. I'm thinking maybe the initial process when you first initialize it by turning the vehicle on installs something and I have not go that far with not having the correct relay for the keyless signal. Its light blinks red so it must not be able to install the initial programming when it blinks red like that.

frank13 wrote:

[QUOTE=kreg357] If you have the cable, sign in and do the firmware flash. You can also do some module configuration. It should be possible to program the Blade to the car and do the KLON process without the Starter2 relay but everything else done.

I tried. Their software did not seem to recognize it.

make sure your using Internet Explorer.

prdjr165 wrote:

frank13 wrote:

[QUOTE=kreg357] If you have the cable, sign in and do the firmware flash. You can also do some module configuration. It should be possible to program the Blade to the car and do the KLON process without the Starter2 relay but everything else done.

I tried. Their software did not seem to recognize it.

make sure your using Internet Explorer.

I tried chrome and then I tried internet explorer. Their software would not recognize it in either browser. Unless it don't like windows 10. I have a machine that is running windows 7. I could probably try that. I'm thinking its kind of like a computer hard drive and that something needs to be installed on it first by being connected to my car properly. My thinking is that won't happen until this relay gets here.

In Windows 10, it uses Microsoft Edge, which does not work with ADS Flashlink. While you have Edge open, click on the three dots in the right corner and then "Open with Internet Explorer". That will work.

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

In Windows 10, it uses Microsoft Edge, which does not work with ADS Flashlink. While you have Edge open, click on the three dots in the right corner and then "Open with Internet Explorer". That will work.

Thanks for the info. It does recognize my 7000as now. It shows that I have options to flash it and to change options. I'm still waiting on that relay to get here. Hopefully its here by Wednesday. Should I flash the device or just wait? I was under the understanding that the light on it should blink blue, red and blue twice before I flash it as according to their instructions.

You can flash it now. Just set the options you want first. You should be able to set CM7000as options, too. If the relay you are waiting for is for the Keyless wire, then you should wait to do the vehicle programming.

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

You can flash it now. Just set the options you want first. You should be able to set CM7000as options, too. If the relay you are waiting for is for the Keyless wire, then you should wait to do the vehicle programming.

Yes I am waiting for the keyless relay. I flashed it. Everything seemed to go fine. I will wait for that relay before doing anything else.

I got that relay today. I did the programming and it seemed to go ok, but when I try remote start, it turns over and the engine will run for a couple seconds and shut off. It will do that 3 times and give me a remote start error 8 code.

I have tried 3 times to program this module. Every time I do a factory reset then reconnect all connectors. If I then start the vehicle with my key, the module stays a solid red. Then I did part 1 of the programming with my usb cable which seemed to program ok. I put it back in the vehicle and start the vehicle. The led goes from blue to red and eventually rapidly flashes blue. I disconnected it and did part 2 of 2 which it said completed successfully. Put it back in my vehicle and the led flashes from blue to red multiple times before turning blue for 2 seconds. I turn the key off at which point the module should be programmed correctly, but my outback does not stay running when I try remote start. During remote start it will blink blue 3 times, then red once, then blue 3 times, then red once, then blue twice, then red once and blue 2 more times before giving up.

I checked the wires multiple times going to the relay and they seem correct. I'm using a DEI 8616 MINI CIRCUIT RELAY 20/10 AMP PREWIRED DIRECTED FOR CAR ALARM SYSTEM.

Is there anything that I am doing wrong here? It seems like it is able to take control of my factory alarm which it did not seem to do before and my keyfobs still function.

I noticed that the starter had firmware version 3.03 on it so I flashed it to version 3.15 thinking that would help but it still acts the same. I have checked my wires. They seem to be good. I can start the vehicle with a regular key, the door locks work and it seems to disarm and arm my factory alarm. Is there maybe some setting that I need to change when connected to the usb cable?

First verify a few things. You will have to properly remove the CM7000as w/Blade from the car and plug it back into
the ADS USB cable. Fire up the Flashlink program and check some settings. On the Blade Advanced settings, verify
that the Tach Output is ON. Next verify that the CM7000as Menu 2 - 10 is set to the default Tach Mode. Re-install
the module into the car. Next do a Tach Learn as follows :
Learn tach: Start the vehicle, hold the foot brake and activate the remote start by holding the Start Button for
3 seconds. The parking lights will flash once and the siren will chirp once to confirm a good tach signal. If
the parking lights flash 2 times and the sirens chirps twice, this indicates the tach did not learn. A few seconds
after the 2 flashes, the CM7 will flash parking lights to indicate the tach learn error.
If that goes well, try a remote start.

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Soldering is fun!

On the blade configuration, Tachometer output is on. On menu 2 tach sensing type is set to optimal tach threshold. Engine sensing on that same menu is set to tach. Advanced tachless is off. I did not see any other tach settings other than that. It does not have have menu 1 to 10 on the 7000as side. It has option group 1 to 4 and special option group 6 and 7.

I did a tach learning by starting the vehicle, pressing down the brake and then holding the start button for 3 seconds. It flashed the light once and chirped once indicating that it is working.

I tried a remote start again and it does the same thing. IT will run for a couple seconds and shut off. It will do that 3 times before giving up.

Sure sounds like a Tach issue. Guess you could try Turning off the Blade Tach Output and running the CM7000as Tach wire,
CN5-17 Yellow/Black out to a F.I. ( any not-Red color at any F.I.). Then do the Tach Learn again and try a R/S.

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kreg357 wrote:

Sure sounds like a Tach issue. Guess you could try Turning off the Blade Tach Output and running the CM7000as Tach wire,
CN5-17 Yellow/Black out to a F.I. ( any not-Red color at any F.I.). Then do the Tach Learn again and try a R/S.

The tach wire is already ran to one of the fuel injectors. This is a boxer engine with two injectors on the left and two on the right. I just found the injector on the drivers side closest to the firewall and just tapped into the wire for that injector which was not red.

If I pull the blade module out and hold a key near the ignition, I can do a remote start and it will stay running that way.

I have been reading around trying to figure this out. I came across a site somewhere and they were saying that if the voltage is too low it may not work. I remember that my voltage is something like 0.4 volts ac on that injector wire. Should I maybe tap into the ignition coil?

I tried switching engine sensing to alternator and now it won't even attempt to start. It just gives a start fail 01 code. Its starting to get a bit chilly here in the Sioux Falls South Dakota area at night. I'm probably going to mess with it more tomorrow.

The coil wire is another option. Even switching over to No Connection / Tachless ( Option 3 ) is another way to test and try.

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Just so there is no confusion, the Blade will supply the Tach signal it picks up from the vehicles CAN Bus via the docking connection. There should be no need to run a manual hard wire Tach from the CM7000as to the engine. So disconnect the CN 5 -17 Yellow/Black wire, make sure the Blade is set to supply a Tach signal, the CN7000as is set to Tach Mode and try the Tach Learn, then a R/S.
If that does not work, then turn the Blade Tach signal OFF, connect the CN7000as Yellow/Black Tach wire and try a Tach Learn and R/S test.

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I tried switching to no connection/tachless option 3. With doing that I turned the blade tach off and turned the advanced tachless option in the starter on. It would fire up once, the remote would think its running and then it would shut down, lock the doors and arm the vehicle. Also with this option it seemed like it did not learn the tach properly since it blinked 3 times.

I tried with the yellow/black wire disconnected by learning the tach from the blade. There it would start once, the remote would think its running and then it would shut down.

Then I also tried with the tach cable connected and the blade tach signal shut off. There it would try 3 times and shut off.