535T window automation

This is my first post here and will be starting with an electrical 101 question regarding the 535T. In all of the diagrams, the switch has only two connections for the motor/unit. What other wires are required on the switch so that I can run the motor forward and backward?

Note I'm using only the term motor...for now. Background on my project. I have a Chrysler Crossfire which has an automatic rear spoiler which I will be selling. I now have a SRT6 Crossfire which came with a clunky solid rear spoiler and want to switch it to an eBay automatic one - which I currently have on my dining table. I'll add that switching the units isn't a problem, but getting the motor as well as the limiting switches working is the problem. (I am a member of the Crossfire (XF) Forum, but I'm not getting much/any help from the group on this project.)

For now I'm working on just the motor - which is essentially the same as on a two wire automatic window motor - and have to admit I'm completely reliant on wiring diagrams. For now I have the wiring set-up with the Type B System which uses a SPDT relay.

I have what I believe is a correct switch which has four spade posts but with the outer two permanently connected to the other outer connections. It would be nice to post a photo.

I will admit that if/when I get the motor working with a switch (it goes up and down when switching the wires), I'll be asking about how to include the three wire limit switches in tandem to the motor.

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Biba
Irwindale, CA

Right for starters the motor should be wired as a type A.
Get a Spal window switch to complete or a double pole changeover centre off to complete.
When not in use both motor wires connect to ground.

For up,one wire goes "hot" whilst the other stays at ground.
For down you're simply reversing the process.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie II, thank you for replying. You mention not being a free install service. I would be happy to pay you (PayPal) if you can guide me through the switch wiring - and better yet, also assist me regarding the limit switches.

I will add that the 2005 SRT6 Crossfire's BCM does not contain a program for an electrical driven spoiler.

I do have a Spal type switch (is there a good reason they have to be so deep?), along with two SPDT Bosch relays (I can easily get more).

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Biba
Irwindale, CA

You won't need the relays assuming the motor draws 15 amps or less. Can you provide either a photo or a drawing of the back of the Spal switch.
Alternatively you could do this with a single pole double throw switch.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

My switch has ABCDEL. I've just tried using only the switch. Checking continuity I get A/E & A/D. With + on A and separate wires to both motor terminals. Nada. It is possible I have a bad switch.

I would like to use a relay since the wires from the switch to the motor will be about 15 feet. And I'd like to use the 535T since I feel it 'might' be possible to include the limit switches.


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Biba
Irwindale, CA

That tells me nothing! Photo or drawing please.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I finally found where the attachment link was. Not too much to see except you get to see the spoiler's set-up. As I said, red + (from 12V battery) is on A; black wires from continuity with D to + motor contact; black wires from continuity E to – motor contact.

Note: white arrow points to basic down limit switch.



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Biba
Irwindale, CA

I'm sure the geared window motors are also quite stiff (for wont of a better term). I'm getting the motor to partially turn, but almost immediately it blows the fuse. Last one was a 30 amp. This was another reason I want/need to use a relay unless you have a better idea.

I somewhat screwed up the motor - though feel I can fix it - but have ordered another one on eBay.

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Biba
Irwindale, CA

Forget the switch just take the motor wires to a 535t or a Spal switch bluntly you're wiring it wrong every time by making wrong assumptions.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie II, that is why I am asking how to wire up the switch - and/or the 535T.

I had the SRT wired exactly like the upper diagram with a relay on page 20. However, I do/did not know what type of switch to use for this and what specific numbers or letters to connect the three wires going to it. That is all that I was asking regarding how to complete that type of circuit.

I did not use the brand Spal but the switch I have has the same number of spade contacts, in the same location with the same lettering. I am very sure that using just the switch will never work.

If you're telling me to use a Spal switch in conjunction with the 535T unit on page 20 with the relay, please tell me the specific letter where the BROWN / Violet wires are attached; what letter the 30 from the relay wire is attached; what number directly from the down contact on the motor is attached.

Once I have that, I'll take it from there - going on the basis it should work or that the motor draws too many amps for the 535T to handle.





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Biba
Irwindale, CA

I'm pretty sure I have it wired correctly using my Spal type switch, relay, and 535T unit. The good part is that I'm not blowing fuses (I have two and using 30 amp in both). However all I get is a click out of the motor. Rather than remove the motor to see if it runs okay, I'm going to wait until the eBay motor arrives next week.

Even if it does run, I have not a clue how to make it work under a load. As I recall when testing the XF with the spoiler installed, I believe the reading was 14.5 volts to the motor and 13.5V for the limit switches. I was unable to get an amp reading today.

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Biba
Irwindale, CA