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Viper 4806v w/DBALL2 programming fault

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=142183
Printed Date: January 18, 2022 at 4:42 AM


Topic: Viper 4806v w/DBALL2 programming fault

Posted By: shadowsbane0
Subject: Viper 4806v w/DBALL2 programming fault
Date Posted: December 05, 2016 at 9:54 PM

Hello esteemed members. I'm beating my head over the install of a Viper 4806v and DBALL2 on a 2010 Toyota Tundra G Key. I've installed everything according to the DBALL instruction sheet. I've double checked the wiring according to the Type 2 connections specified. All of the solid black connection and not the dotted blue. The RS module is functional and the remotes were pre-programmed. I can lock and unlock the vehicle with the viper remotes. What I can't do is start my truck with the key nor will the DBALL2 program. I can soft reset it to solid red, activate the CAN bus to flashing orange, and insert my key to a quick off and then solid orange. When I turn the key to ignition on. The DBALL2 never goes to flashing green that indicates it is programming. I've verified the connections to the transponder harness they are correct and soldiered solid. So what am I missing that Directed failed to include in their wiring diagrams. Oh, I also did flash the DBALL with the correct TL5 firmware for my vehicle. Also, as an aside does anyone know how to get the Viper 4806v into programing mode? The button on the control/antenna doesn't seem to do anything. Using the instructions of inserting key turning ign on then off. Press 1 sec, release, press and hold 5 sec does nothing. I need to take the viper out of manual transmission mode and don't have a bitwriter to do it and don't plan to buy one just for this task. Can it be done with one of the remotes or a jumper connection? Thanks in advance to everyone for your wise experience.



Replies:

Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: December 06, 2016 at 8:15 AM
Entering programming:
Ignition ON the OFF.
Press and HOLD the button on antenna until the horn chirps,(1,2, or 3 times) for which menu you want. Menu 1, Menu 2, Menu 3,

Release the button, then PRESS and RELEASE the button the number of times for the item within that menu you want to change.
Example: You want Item #4 Press and Release the button 4 times.
Then PRESS and HOLD the button.

Using the remote, press the lock OR unlock button. This will change the setting of your selection one item at a time, with a confirming horn chirp.
Example: Option #3 of a particular Item is selected, the horn will honk three times.

So, in your case. Changing to Automatic. Menu #3, Item #1, Option #2.
Ignition ON the OFF.
Press and HOLD the button. One horn honk, then two horn honk, then three horn honks. Release the button.
Press and Release ONE time, then press and HOLD. Use the remote lock or unlock button to cycle through the options.
You should get a horn honk for each of the options. Either on honk or two. More than that, you are in the wrong Menu, Item, Option.

It may take you a number of tries to get this procedure. It can be tricky for timing and button presses, but it can be done.

As for the DBALL issue. Maybe list all of your wire connections from the Viper, DBALL to what on the Toyota. Maybe other forum members can see a issue.

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Posted By: shadowsbane0
Date Posted: December 06, 2016 at 7:13 PM
Thanks Smokeman1, I didn't hook up the horn wire because wanted it to use the built in OEM alarm chirp instead. It isn't doing that either so I'll hook up the Viper to the horn wire and give it a shot.




Posted By: shadowsbane0
Date Posted: December 08, 2016 at 10:26 AM
I saw another thread on the DBALL2 that talks about how flaky they can be. The poster said to flash the module a couple of times. Does anyone know if a bad flash could be the issue with the module not programming to the transponder?




Posted By: shadowsbane0
Date Posted: December 08, 2016 at 9:09 PM
Tried reflashing, it didn't work. Now the diagram shows connecting to the transponder via the connector in the steering column. Would it be better to connect to the passenger kick panel?




Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: December 09, 2016 at 6:26 AM
Use the connector at the steering column.
As I requested earlier to post a listing of ALL your wire connections from the Viper to what(and where) on the Tundra

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Posted By: jhughley
Date Posted: December 09, 2016 at 2:55 PM
I assume by your comment that you connected all of the black wires not the blue dotted ones you are using everything in D2D mode?

I've had issues with the dball not getting enough power to programming or function completely. With that said I always connect the 12 volt and ground wire for the bypass even know I use D2D for everything else.

I normally do not hook up the horn either, I find it annoying. Just watch the light on the antenna.

-------------
Jason




Posted By: shadowsbane0
Date Posted: December 09, 2016 at 3:24 PM
Sorry Smokeman1, I missed that part in your post. Thank you for the reminder. Here is my list of wiring:

Viper 4806v
Main Harness, 6-Pin Connector
H/1 - Red -> Dash fuse box. 12v 10ga Main Bus power
H/2 - Black -> Grounded to body.
H/3 - Brown -> Purple wire, Dash fuse box, white 24 pin plug, Pin 1.

Door Lock, 3-pin Connector
DL/1 - Blue -> Pink wire, driver kick, blue 17 pin plug, pin 16
DL/3 - Green -> Lt Blue wire, driver kick, blue 17 pin plug, pin 14

Remote Start, 8-Pin Connector
RS/1 - RED / Black -> Dash fuse box. 12v 10ga Main Bus power
RS/3 - Pink/White -> Lt Green wire, ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 1
RS/4 - Red -> Blue wire, ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 5
RS/5 - Violet -> Green wire, ignition switch, white pin plug, pin 7
RS/6 - Orange -> Grey wire, ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 2
RS/7 - RED / White -> Dash fuse box. 12v 10ga Main Bus power
RS/8 - Pink -> Black wire, ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 6

Xpresskit DBALL2
Black 10-pin Connector
Blk/6 - BLACK/ White -> Lt Green, Body ECU, Dash Fuse Box, white 10 pin plug, pin 5

Blue 14-pin Connector
Blu/2 - Violet / YELLOW -> Blue wire, transponder key amp on ign switch, black 7 pin plug, pin 5
Blu/3 - Tan/Black -> Purple wire, data link connector, white 16 pin plug, pin 6
Blu/4 - Tan -> White wire, data link connector, white 16 pin plug, pin 14
Blu/10 - ORANGE / Red -> Green wire, dash fuse box, white 24 pin plug, pin 8
Blu/11 - Yellow/Red -> Green wire, dash fuse box, white 24 pin plug, pin 8

Red 12-Pin Connector
R/2 - GREEN/ Black -> Lt Green wire, Body ECU, Dash Fuse Box, white 10 pin plug, pin 5
R/10 - Yellow/Black -> Tan/Biege wire, data link connector, white 16 pin plug, pin 7
R/11 - ORANGE / Black -> Lt Green wire, transponder key amp on ign switch, black 7 pin plug, pin 4





Posted By: shadowsbane0
Date Posted: December 09, 2016 at 3:33 PM
So far for me the antenna seems to be defective. The light blinks on it but the button doesn't do anything. I can't seem to get the Viper into programming mode. Pushing the button doesn't honk the horn or flash the parking lights even though I have the horn hooked up for now until I get things working right. The light blinks when I lock the doors with the viper remote but pushing the button doesn't change the blink rate or make it stay solid.




Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: December 11, 2016 at 8:08 AM
Is this a Refurb 4806 or NEW? There have been some forum members stating that some refurb units they have used have been LOCKED and not able to access the programming features. I have seen one myself.

If the doors lock and unlock via the Viper remote then the antenna is functioning as it is receiving the commands from the remote.

Your heavy gauge wires. The one you have listed as RS/4 is shown to be attached to a BLUE wire at the ignition switch. None of the wires guides I have looked at show a blue wire at the ignition switch.
RS/1, 4, and 7, and H/1 should go to a constant 12 volt source.

Light Flash. I don't see H/5 connected.

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=133810
https://www.commandocaralarms.com/wiringsearch.asp

Are your connections quick connects? T-Taps? or soldered?

On your DBALL connections. Not sure since some of your wires connect to a different location than listed in the DBALL install guide.
Some of your Connections are connected to a different color than listed. Not that it is wrong/right, I can only go be the install guide. And some go to the dash fuse box. Not sure where that info comes from.
I don't see that in the DBALL install guide. Type 2 install


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Posted By: shadowsbane0
Date Posted: December 11, 2016 at 10:09 AM
Thank you for the reply Smokeman1. The Viper is new not a reburb unit. The alternate wire connections come from Directech site when I flashed the DBALL2. They have an installation document with pictures that does differ from their Type 2 wire chart. The functions that they have differ are the parking light connection, the door lock/unlock which is run to the alarm arm/disarm wires, and the keysense wire. All of those functions are working correctly at their wired locations. The Blue wire is on the ignition connection plug. There are two 12v 7.5a wires are the plug. The blue wire and the white wire. The blue wire is the one used in the previous installation. It was working for it and I didn't want to strip another of those small wires. All of my wires are soldiered. I couldn't get the small red or large yellow T-Taps in time for when I started the project. If I would have known I was going to get stuck like this I would have taken the extra time to wait on shipping. I could only find the blue ones locally. You are correct on the light flash connection. That is an oversight on my part that I will correct. Below is a link to the wiring guide from Directech.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43581779/Directechs_com%20-%20DirectWire%20-%20Print%20Vehicle.mht




Posted By: shadowsbane0
Date Posted: December 11, 2016 at 10:44 AM
Here is some additional information to consider that I mentioned in another forum TundraTalk but haven't here. I purchased my Tundra used and it already had an aftermarket remote start installed that was an Orbit model using a iDatalink ALCA bypass. That system ended up failing. I tried to have the bypass re-flashed at a local Audio/Security installer and they flashed the wrong firmware to it completely borking it up. So I purchased the Viper 4806v and DBALL2 combo at WorstBuy. I couldn't have them install it because my truck no longer starts with the key. The XKloader 2 that I purchased for the DBALL2 wasn't able to see the iDatalink to try and re-flash it myself. Now when the iDatalink was installed they had the imo/imi wires run to the TPMS ECU. For awhile when the system was working that seemed to work. The wiring chart for the DBALL2 didn't call for that connection so I've re-soldiered TPMS wire and applied a shrink tube.




Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: December 11, 2016 at 3:54 PM
You need to correct the issue of your truck not starting normally first, before trying to install a remote starter.

Is the starter wire, (green), cut? Use a DMM to test ALL of your ignition wires for voltage and function.

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Posted By: shadowsbane0
Date Posted: December 15, 2016 at 3:44 PM
Smokeman1, Thank you for the help on this issue. A week and a half wasted freezing my arse off, completely removing the system, re-flashing my transponder ecu, and it all was over a stupid 7.5 amp fuse in the engine fuse box that was blown. Everything is put back together and my truck is functional again. Remote start still isn't working but I'm getting ready to research that. I'm getting 8 light flashing indicating the neutral safety switch isn't one but it is and connected. So as soon as I track that down I'll be done. Again thank you for pointing me in the right direction. I ended up figuring it out because after I re-flashed my transponder ecu for the second time. I noticed that even though I had the ignition on and things were working the transponder was showing the ignition switch as off. This led me to checking the wires again and they were good so I got to thinking about checking all of my fuses. Swapped it out and Bob's your uncle. I'm so mad at myself. I was thinking too complex.




Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: December 15, 2016 at 5:11 PM
Pin 13, BLACK/ white, (-) neutral safety. If tundra is auto transmission, ground this wire to chassis ground.

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