2003 Ram 1550, Remote Start/Door Unlock

So I'm trying to install a Viper 4105V remote start/door unlock system in my 3rd gen 2003 Ram 1500.

After googling I did come across a few forums posts and I've combined them in with my notes from: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=22042

pin number - color - description - ram wire

Pri Harness
1 Light green black - 200ma factory alarm disarm - NA
2 GREEN / WHITE - 200ma factory alarm arm - NA
3 yellow - ignition out - To Heavy 6 ?
4 WHITE/ blue - activation output - NA ?
5 orange - 500ma ground when locked - NA ?
6 brown - 200ma horn output - BLACK/ red steering column
7 RED / white - trunk release - OPT
8 black - ground
9 white - light flash - purple / YELLOW @ headlight switch

Remote start harness
1 BLACK/ white - parking brake - ground
2 PURPLE / white - tach - injector or coil wire
3 brown - brake shutdown - ground to 12v
4 gray - hood pin - ground when hood shut
5 blue/white - 200ma rear defogger - OPT

Heavy Gauge Relay Harness
1 red - 12vdc input - RED / white steering column
2 pink/white - Second ign/accessory out
3 red - 12vdc input - RED / white steering column
4 orange - accessory input - orange steering column
5 purple - starter output - yellow steering column
6 pink - ignition 1 input - Primary 3 ?

Door Lock
1 blue - -200ma unlock out - blue driver kickpanel
2 empty
3 green -200ma lock out - tan/pink driver kickpanel

Satellite Harness not used
D2D (I dont even know what this is) likely unused
Bitwriter harness not used


How does this look? If I want to bypass the parking brake then I'm thinking i could just ground that wire 100% of the time. Also not sure about the activation wire, ground when locked, and do I need a relay for the parking lights?

Very much appreciated!

Get ready for some fun with this truck. As mentioned in your link, if the ignition wires are not properly powered, you will get
engine check lights. First a few points :

1. You are using a Viper 4105V R/S unit. This unit is for atuo trans vehicles only, so we will assume that your truck has AT.
2. Does your truck have a Gray ignition key? If yes, you have a transponder chip engige immobilizer system.
3. Does your truck have the Factory Alarm system? If yes, locks and alarm are handled differently.
3. You will need additional parts to do this install properly. Here is a list :
    A. If you use the (-) Parking Light wire inside the truck, you will need a relay and a resistor.
    B. You will need a Directed 451M Door Lock Module for the power lock system. *
    C. You will need a bypass module if you have a Gray ignition key.
    D. To power all the Ignition circuits properly, you will need another relay.
    E. You will need a DMM or computer safe test LED light to test wires during this install.
* The beauty of using the 451M is that it comes with a nice assortment of resistors. These extra resistors can be used for the
   Parking Lights, etc. The 451M cost about $9 so unless you have a couple of relays and a nice assortment of resistors laying
   around, the 451M is ideal.

Most of the necessary info can be found on the Bulldog Secdurity WEB site. Here is the Link :
https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.aspx
They even have photos and wiring diagrams for your relays. Just remember two things about their info :
1. Their info and diagrams are geared towards their products and their products' outputs and limitations.
2. They advise connecting one R/S ACC output to two vehicle ACC wires. This is a bad idea. You will use an extra relay and
    do it correctly. Your choice of the 4105V will make this easier.

There are some errors and changes necessary to your listing, depending on the transponder and alarm. We can get to that
after your responses.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks Kreg.. This is not exactly what I was hoping to here ;)

So no I do not have a transponder key, just the old school, normal key. It is an auto trans too.

So what do you think about some of those wires that I'm not sure of? Could I tap both of the 12v hots to the one large gauge red in the steering column?

Looking at the Bulldog site on teh parking lights.. it only mentions a resistor. What would the relay be for? I mean the unit doesnt try to power the parking lights through itself righat?> You're sending the signal through to the factory under hood rely I'd think..

Also.. judging by this: https://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/DOWNLOADS/26500_RAM-FULL-SIZE-PICKUP-_DODGE%20RAM%201%20WIRE%20JBS%20UNITS.pdf How do I know if I'd need relays for the door locks or not?

Well, you raise some good points about using relays. Unfortunately, I can not give you a definitive answer. You could try
going without the relays. It's your truck and if you encounter problems ( now or a couple of years from now ), you can make
adjustments then. For me as a paid installer, I don't want to take chances or inconvenience my customers, so I go to the extra
distance to insure a long term reliable installation.

Anyway, the Viper's (-) door lock outputs are probably rated at 200mA. That is the total current handling capability of those
outputs. There is no fuse, so overloading them can have serious consequences. For me, a $9 Directed 451M door lock module is
a simple way to ensure that the R/S brain is protected and the vehicles locks work properly. For you, you can omit the relays
and add the correct value resistor inline to the Vipers lock output and call it a day. It might work, I don't know, I've never
tried it. If it doesn't work you can add in the relays. For me, I only get a few hours to install and test. When the customer
drives away, I probably won't see the vehicle again until they need batteries for the remotes and I surely don't want him back
with intermittent lock problems.

The Parking Light is a MUX wire. The resistor to chassis ground is to reduce the voltage on the MUX wire to a level that gets
interrupted as "turn on the Parking Lights". Some wiring info sites actually suggest a 5 wire relay setup to isolate the switch.
I have found that isolation is not always necessary and the Bulldog method works fine. This is another circuit that could
damage the Viper if it can not handle the current requirements. When the Viper is set to (+) Parking Light output, it is 10 Amps.
I don't know exactly the rating when the jumper is set to (-), but it might be only 200mA. Another case of, give it a try and
see what happens. Again, I don't have that luxury.

I guess you have to decide if you want to spend the time and extra money to do it the best way possible or take some risks and
possibly encounter some issues by omitting the relays.

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Soldering is fun!

Well I wasnt actually questioning the use of relays just because they're relays and a PITA. But more so because the bulldog pdf here: https://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/DOWNLOADS/26500_RAM-FULL-SIZE-PICKUP-_DODGE%20RAM%201%20WIRE%20JBS%20UNITS.pdf

Is confusing.. I'm not sure what a JBS or a KE-100 is.

I did go to town this morning and pickup some battery feed wire and a trio of relays just in case.

Following the bulldog page I added a 330ohm resistor to teh parking lights and tested by grounding, works like a champ. I have a relay in case things stop working but like I mentioned last night I'd worry about tossing a full 12v from one relay as the input voltage to the factory relay...wouldnt that hurt the second relay?

I'm about to make teh same ground test for the door locks. If they dont operate or dont operate like they should then I have the relays I can add in.

Bulldogs diagrams are geared towards their products. They use the actual wire colors from their units and have their own relays
and door modules. The closest diagram to your 4105 is the top diagram. Your 4105 does not have internal relays and the door lock
outputs are a (-) 200mA pulse. The other Bulldogs units mentioned have internal relays for the lock outputs.

Remeber that jumpering the vehicle wire to chassis ground through a resistor is not the same as going through the 4105's circuits.
It's more like going through a relay and right to chassis ground.

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Soldering is fun!

Hmm well so teting the door lock/unlock the Bulldog way worked. However using the remote doesnt. I hear it's internal relay clicking twice for unlocks and once for locks. But the actuators are never energized, nor do the parking lights flash. Those tested working the bulldog way too.
Now if I turn the key to on and hit lock or unlock all the lights flash. Internals, headlights and parking.

Ignore the above post. Crap... I guess I'll throw in a relay and see what happens.

Thinking logically, all the Viper unit would have to do is ground the circuits for locking and unlocking.

Let me ask, Am I safe using the relay wiring from Bulldogs pdfs?

https://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/DOWNLOADS/17044_RAM-FULL-SIZE-PICKUP-_CHRYSLER%20PARKING%20LIGHT%20DIAGRAM.pdf

The clicking you hear coming from the Viper when you press Lock or Unlock is actually the Vipers internal Parking Light relay,
not internal lock relays.

For the Parking Lights, I would set the 4105 jumper to (+) Parking Light output and then follow the Bulldog diagram on the
left. While the Bulldog diagram does not follow standard relay coil polarity convention, it will work OK.

As mentioned earlier, the Viper only has (-) 200mA capacity on its lock and (-) Parking Light outputs. This is not the same
as a 14 guage wire to chassis ground.

The (-) 200mA outputs from the Viper are actually transistor controlled type circuits, hence their 200mA rated capacity
( silicone P-N junction ).

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Soldering is fun!

You were right Kreg. Although you knew that already ;)

Yeah so I added relays to the parking lights and the lock and unlocks door wires. Worked like a friggin champ! The remote start even works... a little too good. I cant get it to shut off by the key. I have to pop the hood or hit the start button on the fob a second time.

I went looking back through the 'guide' Viper gives you (what a joke) There are no wires related to key sense so I'm not sure what to do.

So yeah locking the truck, remote starting, unlock, insert key, turn to ON, mash brake, turn key off does not work. According to the wiring diagram I found the brake wire is WHITE/ brown and it is tapped.

This is for anyone who comes behind me installing a Viper 4105V Remote Start/Keyless Entry in a 3rd gen Dodge Ram 1500.

pin number - color - description - ram wire

Pri Harness
1 Light green black - 200ma factory alarm disarm - NOT USED
2 GREEN / WHITE - 200ma factory alarm arm - NOT USED
3 yellow - ignition out - To Heavy 6 NOT USED
4 WHITE/ blue - activation output - NOT USED
5 orange - 500ma ground when locked - NOT USED
6 brown - 200ma horn output - BLACK/ red steering column
7 RED / white - trunk release - NOT USED
8 black - ground
**9 white - light flash - purple / YELLOW @ headlight switch with relay and 330 ohm resistor

Remote start harness
1 BLACK/ white - parking brake - ground
2 PURPLE / white - tach - injector or coil wire Any wire other than teh green wire on the coil
3 brown - brake shutdown - WHITE/ tan above brake pedal
4 gray - hood pin - ground when hood shut
5 blue/white - 200ma rear defogger - NOT USED

Heavy Gauge Relay Harness
1 red - 12vdc input - RED / white steering column
2 pink/white - Second ign/accessory out NOT USED
3 red - 12vdc input - RED / white steering column
4 orange - accessory input - orange steering column NOT USED
5 purple - starter output - yellow steering column
6 pink - ignition 1 input - steering column NOT USED

Door Lock*
1 blue - -200ma unlock out - blue driver kick panel
2 empty
3 green -200ma lock out - tan/pink driver kick panel

Satellite Harness not used
D2D (I dont even know what this is) likely unused
Bitwriter harness not used


* used 2 x relays, unlock needs 330ohm resistor, lock needs 820ohm. (I used 330 and 1k and it works) https://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/DOWNLOADS/26500_RAM-FULL-SIZE-PICKUP-_DODGE%20RAM%201%20WIRE%20JBS%20UNITS.pdf

** https://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/DOWNLOADS/17044_RAM-FULL-SIZE-PICKUP-_CHRYSLER%20PARKING%20LIGHT%20DIAGRAM.pdf

skeer] wrote:

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So yeah locking the truck, remote starting, unlock, insert key, turn to ON, mash brake, turn key off does not work. According to the wiring diagram I found the brake wire is WHITE/ brown and it is tapped.

---

Found it!

The crimp splice on the WHITE/ tan brake pedal wire was not making good contact with the brown wire from the Viper. Truck shuts off correctly like it should.

Now on to 'programming' some features.

Thanks for your help Kreg. You were spot on bro!

Sure glad to help. I came up with a slightly different wiring list...

Pri Harness
1 Light green black - 200ma factory alarm disarm - not used
2 GREEN / WHITE - 200ma factory alarm arm -    not used
3 yellow - ignition out -     Not used
4 WHITE/ blue - activation output -  not used
5 orange - 500ma ground when locked -        not used
6 brown - 200ma horn output - BLACK/ red steering column
7 RED / white - trunk release - OPT
8 black - ground  Chassis Ground
9 white - light flash - set to (+) to external Parking Light Relay Pin 86

Remote start harness
1 BLACK/ white - parking brake -       chassis ground
2 PURPLE / white - tach -ANY wire NOT DARK GREEN/ ORANGE (AC) @ COIL PACK or FUEL INJECTOR
3 brown - brake shutdown - WHITE/ TAN (+) @ SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
4 gray - hood pin - ground when hood shut to kit supplied hood pin
5 blue/white - 200ma rear defogger - OPT

Heavy Gauge Relay Harness
1 red - 12vdc input -    PINK/BLACK (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
2 pink/white - Second ign/acc out set to IGN RED / WHITE (+) (16 Gauge wire) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
3 red - 12vdc input -    PINK/BLACK (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
4 orange - accessory input - Orange @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
5 purple - starter output - yellow steering column     
6 pink - ignition 1 input - BLUE (+) 16 Gauge wire @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Satellite harness, 4-pin connector
1 BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT not used ( Black key truck - no chip in key )
2 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT     to ACC2 relay, Pin 85
3 PURPLE (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT       not used
4 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION OUTPUT        not used

Door Lock
1 blue - -200ma unlock out -    to Unlock relay Pin 85
2 empty
3 green -200ma lock out -       to Lock Relay Pin 85

Parking Light Relay
Pin 86 to Viper White (+) Parking Light output
Pin 85 and 30 to Chassis Ground
Pin 87 to PURPLE / YELLOW (-) @ BACK of HEADLIGHT SWITCH through 330 or 1400 ohm resistor

Unlock Relay *
Relay Pin 85 to Viper Blue (-) 200 mA Lock output
Relay Pin 86 to +12V constant
Relay Pin 30 to Chassis ground
Relay Pin 87 to WHITE/ GREEN IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL, in DOOR HARNESS, heading to REAR of vehicle through 330 ohm resistor

Lock Relay *
Relay Pin 85 to Viper Green (-) 200 mA Lock output
Relay Pin 86 to +12V constant
Relay Pin 30 to Chassis ground
Relay Pin 87 to WHITE/ GREEN IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL, in DOOR HARNESS, heading to REAR of vehicle through 820 ohm resistor

* In lieu of these two lock relays, you could use a Directed 451M DoorLock Module. It plugs right in to the Viper locks plug
and comes with a pack of assorted resistors that includes all the correct values needed. Just follow the 451M Install Guide
Type H wiring diagram using the indicated resistor values.

Accessory 2 Relay
Relay Pin 85 to Viper ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT
Relay Pin 86 and 30 to +12V constant through 20 Amp fuse
Relay Pin 30 to Green ACC2 @ Ignition Switch Harness

Please note that there are multiple Blue and RED / White wires in the ignition switch harness. You must use a DMM to verify
the correct wires.

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Soldering is fun!