2016 Tundra will not start

Hey Guys,

First time posting in a while. I was installing a Viper 4105V remote starter in my father's 2016 Tundra double cab yesterday. After prepping the remote start brain and the dbAll2 and finding a spot to hide everything under the dash, I connected the 12v constant (merged into one wire, connected to the 150A constant near the dash fuse box, batter was disconnected), then I disconnected the ignition plug at the column. I found the starter wire, stripped the insulation, then plugged it back in and metered it while turning the key. The truck cranked, but it didn't start and I didn't get 12v on the meter. Since then, then truck won't start with the key. I don't even get a click under the hood, no crank, nothing. The battery is fine (truck has less than 10k on it), everything else turns on (lights, radio, windows). The doors lock/unlock and the alarm indicator stops blinking with the key in the ignition. I left the battery disconnected for a few hours yesterday, hoping that it would reset the computer, but no dice. I checked every fuse under the dash and under the hood, all are fine. There were no sparks, no pops, no smoke when I was connecting the 12v constant and metering the starter wire. It seems as though the factory alarm starter kill is somehow engaged, but everything in the manual says that the alarm should not be activated, and one of the ways to disable the alarm is to start the truck. Any ideas?

A little background on me... I used to work for Tweeter, installing stereos and remote starters. I haven't installed very many, I wouldn't consider myself an expert, but I am fairly knowledgeable and can handle the easy ones (Hondas, Toyotas). I have installed remote starters in two of my Tacomas, my father's older Tundra, and my wife's Pilot recently.

When I metered the 12v constant (basic 10A multi-meter with an alligator clip on ground), the red probe wire got very hot, but the meter continued to work fine. I used the same meter when I was checking the starter wire. I don't know if this meter was somehow compromised and and damaged a fuse/relay/ecu, but again, there was no spark/pop/smoke of any kind, and I had the battery disconnected when I wired the 12v constant as I didn't want to take the chance of shorting out the 150A lead. The fuses were out of the remote start module the entire time. Thanks in advance, I'm really hoping I don't have to have the tuck towed back to the dealership for something stupid.

did you plug back in the transponder harness?

Thanks for the reply. I only unplugged the 1-pin constant and the 8-pin ignition harnesses. I did plug the ignition harness back in after I had located the starter wire and stripped some insulation off so I could meter it. The truck did crank when I first tried to start it, but as soon as I leg go of the key and tried to start it again, it would no crank.

strange, I would double check the transponder harness, maybe it pulled out somwhow? if everything else still works (radio, door locks), my money is on the "transponder"

When you say the transponder harness, are you talking about the factory harness at the column? The wires are much smaller than I'm used to, so I'd guess that they're not the actual starter/ignition/accessory wires. I used the same dbALL2 on my 2014 Tacoma and my wife's 2012 Pilot. Both of those vehicles had the normal 12/10 awg wires at the column, but the Tundra has 20/22 awg wires at the column.

Your meter's probe definitely shouldn't be getting hot during voltage testing, so it sounds like there's a short in the meter. If you used the same meter to probe the starter wire, it's very likely that you blew one of the ignition switch fuses. There are two constant power wires at the switch, both fused at 7.5 amps. I'd start looking for the AM1 and AM2 fuses; one or both may be blown.

Another way to check would be to test the blue and white constant power wires at the ignition switch for voltage (use a different meter).

I'll check the constant wires at the column once I get a chance. I grabbed a better meter from my brother. The only reason I was using that cheap meter is because I couldn't find my good one.

I did check all the fuses under the dash and under the hood, all were fine. I couldn't find an AM2 fuse, but I did find an AM1 fuse (7.5A) and it was fine. And as far as the transponder is concerned, I do find it strange that the alarm indicator on the dash turns off when the key is in the ignition, which means that the transponder at least recognizes the key.

Thank you so much for the replies, I do appreciate it.

I got the truck running. It was the AM2 fuse under the hood. Not sure how I missed it originally, maybe I was rushing through it and notice notice it was popped. I replaced it and the truck started right up. I'm wondering if the fuse popped right when I stuck the meter probe through the starter wire, and the meter was somehow providing enough voltage on the starter wire to get it to crank. Good news is I found my good meter and I'll be able to finish the truck. Thanks again!