Avital 4103 in my 94 chevy 1500

Was working great, then the remote start went out and now it cranks with the key/key fob but won't fire. It's getting spark and fuel and has perfect compression... so I'm assuming it has to do with the avital4103 somehow.

I did the shutdown diagnostic and I'm getting hood pin shutdown or 5 blinks so I direct grounded the wire to the frame. Still same problem. Is anyone else having or had this issue!?!

Also the key fob quit cranking the motor but locks and unlocks work... I spent all day on this problem redoing wires and everything. I've read on some forums ppl use a bypass?!? With the avital4103 and other auto starts but don't believe one was installed on this truck. (Bought with it already installed)

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Thebackyardmessup

Try not grounding the hood pin wire. Is it a plunger/push pin type hood pin? Could be corroded and not working properly.

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There was no good pin just a wire with a female flat plug attached to the hood. I've tried it plugged in/ grounded and unplugged still nothin

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Thebackyardmessup

Just to clarify: the vehicle does or does not still start with the key?

A bypass is used for vehicles that have anti-theft systems that would otherwise interfere with remote start. None is required for a 1994 truck.

The key cranks it but no start. The key fobs auto start function no longer works but I read since I messed around with the thing that after it runs I have to reprogram the auto start feature in a sequence of one push-3 pushes f the button.

Thank you for clearing the bypass up I figured it had to do with that

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Thebackyardmessup

Any ideas here guys? Messed around with it some more redid some wires still notta I'm so confused this old carbed 350 should fire without the damn auto start system but I even took that out and nothing. Now I'm starting to think it's the motor again... but it has the essentials- fuel, air, spark, and compression.

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Thebackyardmessup

The 4103 is a very basic remote start system; it doesn't include any alarm features like a starter or ignition interrupt. If it's installed correctly, there's no way it could interfere with starting your truck with the key. I think your problem is somewhere else.

sevorix wrote:

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Any ideas here guys? Messed around with it some more redid some wires still notta I'm so confused this old carbed 350 should fire without the damn auto start system but I even took that out and nothing. Now I'm starting to think it's the motor again... but it has the essentials- fuel, air, spark, and compression.

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If the truck has an electric fuel pump test to make sure you have the right fuel pressure. If the truck has fuel injectors they do require certain fuel pressure to the injectors. Also disconnect the main wire harness of the RS and see if it cranks with the key. I'm pretty sure it wont because it does sound like something else is wrong with the truck itself.

Sorry what exactly is an RS? The fuel pump was just replaced and ran fine for days but then I Parked it and now it ain't workin. Is there anyway to test the volts coming outs the ignition coil? I was told that even though it's getting spark it might not be getting enough?!?

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Thebackyardmessup

sevorix wrote:

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Sorry what exactly is an RS? The fuel pump was just replaced and ran fine for days but then I Parked it and now it ain't workin. Is there anyway to test the volts coming outs the ignition coil? I was told that even though it's getting spark it might not be getting enough?!?

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RS= Remote starter.

yes you cant test the coil but its highly unlikely to be a coil. Most Chevy's have a coil for each cylinder and can still run with 6 out of the 8 coils working. If you have been having issues with your fuel pump that's where I would start. I would test the fuel pressure at the fuel rail. You will need a test kit for that and you might be able to get a loaner from AutoZone. I do not think the problem you are having has anything to do with the remote starter. however, I'm not there with the truck so I cant say for sure...

I appreciate all input. And all the elf so far thank you guys still a work in progress I guess

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Thebackyardmessup

"this old carbed 350 should fire"... Is it carbed? I would think a '94 would have fuel injection, either throttle body or separate injectors. You just had the fuel pump replaced? That might be a clue. Was it a new pump used? If there is a valve in the fuel line test the fuel pressure. Probably looking for about 50 psi. Does it have an external fuel filter? May be restricted. Sometimes the whole tank should be cleaned when a pump is replaced. Using caution, you could try putting a little gas down the carb or throttle body (but not while cranking- in case it backfires) and see if it is a fuel issue. Hold plug wire(s) about half an inch away from ground while cranking to check spark. Did you do a compression test? If cylinders are even but low you may have a jumped timing chain. If you have fuel, spark, and compression/valve timing it should start. One of those might be missing. Hope this helps...

A 94 will have one coil, a conventional distributor, and 2 TBI type fuel injectors. There is no "rail" or pressure test port on a TBI engine. Fuel pressure should be 9-12 psi at idle. I check fuel pressure by inserting a T for my gauge after the fuel filter down on the frame.

You say you have spark. Perhaps you really don't. A very difficult to diagnose malady on these systems is a bad pick-up coil in the distributor. NOT the Ignition Coil that makes the High Voltage, but a little coil inside the distributor. Has green and white wires, and plugs into the module in the bottom of the distributor under the cap. The coil should be 820 Ohms. If you find higher resistance, it has failed and can be causing your no-start. To replace this coil requires removing the distributor, driving the pin out of the gear, and removing the shaft. Most guys just get a replacement distributor from Vato Zone.

If you suspect fuel pump is not running, there is a test connector on the RH side of the firewall. Under the plastic cover, if it is still present. There are 4 relays, and one of them will have a short wire with a female terminal on it. Apply 12V, and the pump should run. The fuel pump circuit is usually GRAY on GM's, but the trucks may be red. I don't remember which. Probably gray.

There.

It would be nice to hear back from the original poster to let us know if he found the problem and what it was. At one point he referred to it as - this old carbed 350. Maybe not the original motor? Would be nice to know what the problem was or possibly he hasn't fixed it yet.