2006 Silverado 1500 Bypass Module

I've been looking through the post for a couple of hours but cannot find the specific question/topic I was looking for, so I decided to start a new one. I have a 2006 Chevy Silverado 1500 WT and all I'm looking to do is bypass the passlock feature. The truck will currently not start because the passlock feature has been activated somehow/someway and I've tries all of the quick/easy fixes I could find on the web. There's no extra bells/whistles (heated seats, car alarm, high-end radio, power doors/locks/windows, etc.), except someone installed a thrid-party cruise control on it. I was wondering which reasonably priced bypass module would be the easiest to install. I'm not a novice but also I don't have an electrical engineering degree. Thanks in advance.

Well, you have some choices to make.

First, do you want to bypass or eliminate the Passlock2 engine immobilizer system. A slight difference between
the two. A bypass is usually used in conjunction with a Remote Start system and it only functions during the
Remote Start operation. A total elimination of the Passlock2 system would allow the truck to start with the
key all the time, every time but would remove anti-theft feature provided by Passlock2.

You could add a bypass module all by itself and turn it on manually with a hidden switch. This would allow
consistent engine starts and provide some security. Or you could do a permanent bypass with a quality
resistor, heat shrink tube and some solder.

If you want to use a bypass module, the best choice ( IMHO ) would be an ADS TBSL PL module.   Here is a link
to the install guide : https://images.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/TB-PL/ADS-TBSL-PL_20110120.pdf
You would follow the Type 6 Install diagram and hardwire everything as follows :
Red wire to +12V constant
Black wire to Chassis Ground
Pink wire to thick Pink wire at main ignition harness.
Orange wire to Violet wire at Pin 2 of the OBD2 connector.
Blue/White wire to Chassis Ground through hidden security switch. *

* You don't want to connect the Blue/White wire straight to Chassis Ground as that will leave the bypass module
always ON and possibly drain the battery over an extended period.

If you want to go the Passlock2 elimination route, here is a link to a post that explains the process :
    https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=123309

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Soldering is fun!

Ok, I'm about to tear my hair out. I broke down and purchased the newrockies PRO module and installed it, but the truck still cranks but doesn't fire. Below is what I have troubleshot so far:


1) I have confirmed I have spark from the ignition coil to the distributor and from the distributor to the spark plugs

2) I can feel the starter relay click when i turn the key to on. I also replaced the starter relay just encase.

3) I can hear the fuel engage when I turn the key to on

4) I performed the relearn procedure after installing the PRO module. It worked exactly like the said. The passlock symbol went off and stayed off after the thirds time.

5) I touched both ends of the battery cable together for ten seconds to release any static charge. Not sure why, but I read it in a couple of places.

6) I disconnected the mass air flow meter sensor and nothing changed.

7) I disconnect the air filter hosing and sprayed started fluid in the hose, but the engine did not fire.

cbus] wrote:

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Ok, I'm about to tear my hair out. I broke down and purchased the newrockies PRO module and installed it, but the truck still cranks but doesn't fire. Below is what I have troubleshot so far:


1) I have confirmed I have spark from the ignition coil to the distributor and from the distributor to the spark plugs

2) I can feel the starter relay click when i turn the key to on. I also replaced the starter relay just encase.

3) I can hear the fuel engage when I turn the key to on

4) I performed the relearn procedure after installing the PRO module. It worked exactly like the said. The passlock symbol went off and stayed off after the thirds time.

5) I touched both ends of the battery cable together for ten seconds to release any static charge. Not sure why, but I read it in a couple of places.

6) I disconnected the mass air flow meter sensor and nothing changed.

7) I disconnect the air filter hosing and sprayed started fluid in the hose, but the engine did not fire.

---

Do you have a check engine light on?

Yes the engine light is on, but I don't have a code reader.

cbus] wrote:

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Yes the engine light is on, but I don't have a code reader.

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I would invest in a cheap one to read the codes... you may had a bad coil preventing the vehicle from starting.

cbus] wrote:

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Ok, I'm about to tear my hair out. I broke down and purchased the newrockies PRO module and installed it, but the truck still cranks but doesn't fire. Below is what I have troubleshot so far:


1) I have confirmed I have spark from the ignition coil to the distributor and from the distributor to the spark plugs

2) I can feel the starter relay click when i turn the key to on. I also replaced the starter relay just encase.

3) I can hear the fuel engage when I turn the key to on

4) I performed the relearn procedure after installing the PRO module. It worked exactly like the said. The passlock symbol went off and stayed off after the thirds time.

5) I touched both ends of the battery cable together for ten seconds to release any static charge. Not sure why, but I read it in a couple of places.

6) I disconnected the mass air flow meter sensor and nothing changed.

7) I disconnect the air filter hosing and sprayed started fluid in the hose, but the engine did not fire.

---

A 2006 Silverado does not have a distributor. Each plug has its own electronic coil...

Let me first say I'm not a mechanic, but my 2006 Silverado V6 4.3L engine definitely has a distributor, because I just replaced the cap and rotor, hoping that was my problem. I was finally able to find the fuse for the ODB and hooked up a reader. It flashed P01-- Mass Air something, but then went away and I cannot get it to come back, even using a neighbor's code reader. I was finally able to get the engine to start by spraying starter fluid directly into the carburetor, but it dies after a couple of seconds.

cbus] wrote:

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Let me first say I'm not a mechanic, but my 2006 Silverado V6 4.3L engine definitely has a distributor, because I just replaced the cap and rotor, hoping that was my problem. I was finally able to find the fuse for the ODB and hooked up a reader. It flashed P01-- Mass Air something, but then went away and I cannot get it to come back, even using a neighbor's code reader. I was finally able to get the engine to start by spraying starter fluid directly into the carburetor, but it dies after a couple of seconds.

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Yes the V6 does not the V8... I figured it was an 8 cylinder. sounds like the mass airflow sensor is bad.


RockAuto

I'm not sure what to do next?

I've taken off the PRO module, because it appears the passlock was not my issue, and reconnected the wires, but now I cannot get the passlock light to go out. I've tried the relearn process (10 minutes 'ON' then 30 seconds 'OFF" for 3X) four different times (2x with each key), but it still doesn't turn off. I removed the battery terminals for four hours and touched them together for 5 minutes, but that didn't help.

Even though I removed the battery terminals for four hours and touched them together for 5 minutes, the check engine light is still on, but when I hook up my reader and my neighbor's reader it does find any codes. I tried turn the truck to on and off 3x and 5x to see if the check engine light would blink or the code show up on the digital odometer so I could figure out what the code was but nothing. I also tried putting a jumper in the ODB port but still nothing.

I guess I'm running out of ideas

I'm looking to do the same thing. Does the resistor method make the security light come on and stay on while driving?

Cbus did you get your issue fixed? Did the truck do this out of the blue or was it driving weirdly before this issue occured?