1999 Tahoe

Ok, I have gotten a good start on my alarm install over the last couple of days, but I have a couple of questions for you pros.
First off, I cant find the white wire for the brake switch.  I can see a black box above the brake pedal area with a wire harnes attached, but there is no way a grown man could reach this area and make wiring connections.  So where do you guys connect this wire?
My other question is I am trying to bypass or override the passlock (or is it VATS) in my car.  The remote start fires up, but the security light comes on.  I purchased  a PassMod module, but cant find the wires in the harness to hook up to.  Do I have to take the dash panel below the steering column off to find them?  Also, do I have to attach all applicable wires for this thing to work, or just the three passlock wires?

Thanks guys, I am almost there...

Steve

EDIT -
Would the Factory Alarm Disarm wire, Lt. Green (-) in the drivers kick panel (also purple plug in BCM) help in bypassing the passlock?

As far as I know, the brake wire is the WHITE wire above the brake pedal and yes it is very tight in this area. I have smaller hands ( don't laugh  ) and I do not have any problems with grabbing the wire. The 1999 Tahoe has the Passlock II system and in the past there have been troubles with this system and the available bypass modules out on the market that have fixed resistor values for the bypass. My suggestion would be to get a IPPME variable learning bypass module that will learn the resistor value and if it changes it will change with the Passlock. Depending on the bypass module that you have you only need to attach the applicable wires but not normally all of them. Disarming the factory alarm does not bypass the Passlock system. You need to bypass the Passlock at the Passlock module in the key cylinder.

  PICTURE 1

PICTURE 2

PICTURE 3

Ok, I cant figure out the passkey thing, so Im moving on for now, but now I cant find the BCM, which from what Ive read is where the door lock wires, door trigger wires and parking lights are.  I know the colors of the wires, but just cant seem to find them.  (Got a mean crick in my neck for looking though).  Is what Im looking for in any of the above pics?  If not, maybe someone could give me some directions based on the photos. 

Thanks,
Steve

PS
Do I really need to diode isolate the door trigger wires, or is there just one wire that activates if ANY door is opened?

Please resend the pictures .

Pictures moved to different web site.  Hope this helps.

Thanks,

Steve

It's the 2000-up that has the BCM plainly visible under the driver's dash.  Your older-style 1999 model does not.  Or at least not in a readily accessible place.

When you pull down the driver's knee bolster, you'll see a single bundle of wires running up into the steering column.  The thinner yellow wire is the Passlock resistance wire, and the ORANGE / black is Passlock ground.  You can also follow all of these wires to a large black junction plug above the driver's left foot.

The whole left side of the underdash comes off with just three 7mm screws---I'm surprised you were able to work at all while it was in place.  Behind that, remove four 10mm bolts and the metal piece, for even easier access.

Door trigger is purple, at the headlight switch, and it catches all the doors, including the rear.  The panel holding the headlight switch will pop out a couple of inches if you just pull on it---use a hook-shaped tool to drag the wire harness out and make your connection.  If you have trouble doing that, just take off the screws so you can pull the dash panel out farther.  (Parking lights are brown, also at the switch.)

I've never seen a factory alarm on a '99.  Don't bother looking for a factory disarm wire unless you know you have a factory alarm.

I've never had a bit of trouble tying into the brake wire directly at the brake pedal, but you should be able to find the same wire in the driver's kick panel, running to the rear of the car.  (Parking lights should be in there as well.)

|       ITEM      |     WIRE COLOR     |POL|       WIRE LOCATION        |
|              12V|red                 |+  |ignition harness            |
|          STARTER|yellow or purple    |+  |ignition harness            |
|         IGNITION|pink                |+  |ignition harness            |
|  SECOND IGNITION|white *1            |+  |ignition harness            |
|        ACCESSORY|orange              |+  |ignition harness            |
|       POWER LOCK|lt. blue            |*2 |either door boot            |
|     POWER UNLOCK|white               |*2 |either door boot            |
|       LOCK MOTOR|gray                |   |drivers door boot           |
|     UNLOCK MOTOR|tan                 |   |drivers door boot           |
|    DISARM DEFEAT|tan                 |   |passengers door boot        |
| PARKING LIGHTS +|brown               |   |headlight switch *3         |
|       HEADLIGHTS|yellow              |+  |headlight switch            |
|     DOOR TRIGGER|purple              |-  |headlight switch            |
| DOME SUPERVISION|white               |-  |underdash light             |
|  TRUNK/HATCH PIN|tied with doors     |   |                            |
|TRNK/HTCH RELEASE|black or blk/wht    |*4 |low in the drivers kick     |
|  FCTRY ALARM ARM|                    |   |                            |
|FCTRY ALRM DISARM|                    |   |                            |
|       TACHOMETER|white               |   |ECM *5                      |
|      SPEED SENSE|green               |4  |ECM *5                      |
|       BRAKE WIRE|white               |+  |at brake pedal switch       |
|     HORN TRIGGER|black               |-  |at column                   |
|           WIPERS|purple              |+  |steering column             |
|  LF WINDOW UP/DN|dk. blue - brown    |A  |at drivers door switch      |
|  RF WINDOW UP/DN|lt. blue - tan      |A  |dr door or kick panel       |
|  LR WINDOW UP/DN|dk. grn - purple    |A  |drivers kick panel          |
|  RR WINDOW UP/DN|lt. grn - purple    |A  |drivers kick panel          |

Notes:
Note: This vehicle has the passlock II immobilizer system that, when adding a remote start, must be interfaced with. Use DEI part 555t or 555L.  Note: Diesel glow plug, dk. blue(-) located at the instrument cluster.  *1 Required for remote start operation.    *2 The 4 door versions are positive trigger, and the 2 door versions are 5-wire.  *3 also found low in the drivers kick panel.  *4 positive trigger on models with rear lift window, and 5 wire on models with cargo doors.   *5 ECM is located on drivers side inner fender. Tach wire found in a black plug marked "white".

Thanks Chris, you have given me new hope!  Just for future reference for others, here are two more photos of the steering column...

I think I saw the passlock wires you were talking about while taking these picture earlier :-)  Cant wait till the morning.

Photo 1A

Photo 2A

Yes, those are the correct Passlock wires.  I think it would be easiest to put the steering column back together, and remove the driver's side knee bolster instead, as I described above.  If I remember correctly, there is only one single bundle of wires coming down from the steering column, and only one small yellow wire in that bundle--pretty hard to get it wrong.

In PICTURE 1, I seee a yellow butt connector, and a brown Scotchlok.  Are those your connections?  If not, then it's likely another piece of aftermarket equipment was installed and then removed before you got the car.  These Scotchloks and such might be used as an investigative tool, to help you find the correct wires.  (As always, test each wire for proper function before hooking up; the previous installer may have made a mistake.)

There was another system in this car called a Triad.  It was one of those dealer installed transponder deals, where a fob thing goes on your key chain, and is required to start the car.  Since I didnt buy this option, they put in a bypass module so the system is in operative.  I think it is purely a starter interrupt as far as I can tell.
Im going out to continue installing, so I'll post back later with my results.  Thanks alot for everyones help.

Steve

Who put that scotch-lock and crimp-in connector in that picture, solder gentlemen, solder.lol

As far as the secrets and help that is given here taking away from customers, thats just plain ridiculous.  I know quite a bit about electronics, cars, and computers, and my install is still a nightmare.  There are not that many crazy people like myself and the other non-installers here that are either willing to attempt a full install or have the time to do it.  For me it's just for fun as a hobby to see if I can do it.  Ive spent a dozen plus hours and Im still not done. 
I apprecite the installers who spend thier free time here helping people like me.  I do similar thing with my free time helping people with thier Mitsubishi big screen TV's.  I have a Yahoo group, like this site did, plus I am a moderator at one of the worlds largest home audio/video web sites.  I share my time and experience for fun because I like to help people, and that is reward enough most of the time.  Sites like these make the internet so great.

Im off to search this site for my latest issue before I post my question. (Passive arming while car is on?)

Steve

Passive arming while car is on  .... you can disconnect the ignition wire that the alarm requires to let it know that the car is on. Just make sure that the impact sensor is not set too sensitive otherwise you will get alot of false alarms.

Maybe I should recap as this may help in figuring out whats going on... [EDITED]

The Issues-
Since hooking up the Parking Lights (brown by the light switch), the car makes the door open noise and all the dash lights come on when arming and disarming.  I can leave it like with this, but thought I would point this out.

Remote start is still not working.  I am going to take this to an installer to figure out, as Ive tried everything.  Do resistances of .572 and .534 sound right?  And would I set my dip switches to 55.5 (avg) or 555 (avg)?  Engine cranks, but no gas.

Wires I have not hooked up- (Could any of these cause a problem with the above)
Hood (-) trigger wire
Brake Light (+) trigger wire
Remote start Accessory wire

By hooking up the valet/program button, that fixed my passive arming after start problem.  Everything else seems to work fine, keyless, trunk release and such.

As always thanks!

Passive arming after car starts = no ignition wire hooked up.  Figured that out, me smart.

I will probably ordering a simpler passkey 2 bypass, as the one I have has the dip swithes and 12 wires.

VelocityMotors here I come, if I can figure out the money conversion :-)

Steve

Parking lights:  Yes, that's normal.  The remote start will do the exact same thing the switch on the dash would do--hence the instrument lamps coming on, as well as the "you left your lights on" warning chime.

Hoodpin and brakeswitch wires shouldn't be needed to get the thing working.  But I do like to have the brake hooked up, even while just troubleshooting, so I can instantly shut the system down if anything bad happens.

Which remote start accessory wire haven't you hooked up?  The pink and white main ignition wires need to both see power, or it's probably not going to start.  The orange wire supplies things like the climate controls, windshield wipers, and power windows---the car will start and run without power going to the orange wire.  There's also a brown wire in there that powers the radio; it's not needed for remote start.

If you suspect Passlock is your trouble, do this:

Temporarily disconnect any Passlock bypass device; make temporary connections to restore Passlock connections to factory status.

Insert ignition key, turn to Run, and leave it there.

Attempt to remote start the car.

If it starts and runs fine, you have Passlock issues, or else you simply haven't powered up both ignition wires.  (If the car won't even start with the key, make sure you have removed all remnants of that Triad thing.)

If it still won't start, your problem lies elsewhere.  I'm not sure what brand you're installing, but it must have a procedure to "learn" the car's tachometer rate.  Was the learn procedure successful?  If not, that warrants further investigation.

Another tip:  Most remote starts have a mode known as "pit stop" or "valet take-over."  The idea is this:  You drive to the corner store, and you want to leave the motor running.  You press the remote start button on your remote, wait a couple of seconds, and then remove the key and lock the car.  The motor stays running while you're in the store.  You can use this feature as a troubleshooting tool.  If "pit stop" works, it's likely that your main ignition wires are hooked up correctly----start investigating the starter wire  and Passlock connections.  If "pit stop" won't work, find out why before proceeding.