Viper 4806 install problem, 2011 Honda Ridgeline RTL

I am having a problem with an install of Viper / Python (Directed) 4806 remote start on a 2011 Honda Ridgeline RTL.
Everything is wired including a D2D DB3.
Voltages test correct.
PROBLEM is that the car cranks with the remote start but does not actually start.
I have tried different tach codes in Menu 3 - option 2 but none of them change the problem.
No error codes given for starting problem

Chatted with Directech several times. No help.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.
LarryRM

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LarryM

Cranking but not starting doesn't sound like a tach issue. If the truck was starting but not releasing the starter I would think tach but for this issue we should start with the immobilizer. Put the remote start in virtual tach, unplug the Db-all, then try remote starting with the key in the ignition and let us know what happens.

Beegbie.

Thanks for the reply.

I did what you suggested. Here is a summary of options tried and results...
1. Fully wired - programmed for tach or virt.tach - no key in ignition = remote cranking but no start
2. Fully wired - programmed for tach or virt.tach - key in ignition an in ON position = Remote start works
3. DB3 unplugged - programmed for virt.tach - no key in ignition = remote cranking but no start
4. DB3 unplugged - programmed for virt.tach - key in ignition an in ON position = Remote start works

My take is that the key immobilizer is not being bypassed. I have also used a DB2 unit with the same results, so it is not the DBall unit that is the issue. I have tested the wiring and it all seems to be correct and have continuity.

Other ideas?

Thank you!
Larry

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LarryM

Great details Larry. Before we move on to whats going on with the immobilizer, I'd like to alter scenario #4. Recheck with the key in the ignition but not on. This will make sure our ignition wiring is correct and timed correctly.

Already did that.
It does not start with the key in the ignition and not in the ON position. Also does not start in the ACC position.
If I put the key in the ON position and remote start, then turn the key OFF, the engine dies.

Thanks.

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LarryM

Test the black/yellow ignition wire at the ignition switch. The pink wire from your remote start should be powering this up when remote started.

tested as follows...

* continuity confirmed between DBall port along pink wire to black/yellow wire in the harness
* voltage test from DBall port to ground is 3 mV at rest jumping to 65 mV during remote start cranking.

hope this helps.

Larry


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LarryM

It should be going to 12 volts during remote start activation. Check all three of your 12v feeds at the 8 pin connector of the 4806. The red wire (pin4) is the fused feed for the pink ignition output that should have 12 volts all the time.

Here are the tested voltages on the 8 pin harness...

1. Red/black wire - 12 V constant
2. n/a
3. Pink/white wire - 12 V @ pre-start
4. Red wire - 12 V constant
5. Violet wire - 12 V @ crank
6. Orange wire - 12 V @ pre-start
7. Red/white wire - 12 V constant
8. Pink wire - 3 mV at rest to 65 mV @ crank

No idea why the Pink wire is not testing 12 V before or during crank.

Ideas?

Thanks.

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LarryM

It could be a bad brain but we don't see very many bad ones at all and when they do go bad, it's very rare for this part of the module to go bad. Even if it's the brain, we should be able to work around it assuming the input portion of the pink wire is working. If your able to program tach, I think it is. Can you/have you entered the options programming? If yes, instead of sending the brain back, keep the pink to the black/yellow and also put the pink/white programmed for ignition to the black/yellow also. Then just make sure the orange is powering the heater accessory and leave the radio circuit alone.

Yes, I am able to program the Rach to any option.
When connecting the pink/white to the black/yellow, do I cut the connection between the pink/white and the white/black?
Orange is wired to yellow. Which vehicle wire is radio and which is heater?
Thank you!

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LarryM

Yes, I am able to program the tach to any option.

When connecting the pink/white to the black/yellow, do I cut the connection between the pink/white and the white/black?

Orange is wired to yellow.

Which vehicle wire is radio and which is heater?

Thank you!


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LarryM

Disconnect the pink/white from the white/black and connect it to pink going to black/yellow. I don't remember the radio accessory color so you have two choices. 1. Test the wires. The one that comes on when you turn the key to the first position is the radio (the radio will be on). 2. Trial and error. Leave the orange to the yellow, remote start it, then check if the radio is on or the heater is on. If the radio is on, move the orange over to the white/black.

OK. I rewired the pink/white to the pink to black/yellow.

The vehicle still does not start with the remote. I cranks only.

One difference is that I can start it with the remote when the key is in the ignition and on, then remove the key with the vehicle still running. It does not die as it did before when removing the key. I can then shut down the vehicle with the remote.

Does that help.?

Thanks.

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LarryM

Have you verified that the fuse is good on the solid red wire? When doing your voltage testing, make sure you test the wire on both sides of the fuse.

It sounds like the pink/white flex output is programmed for accessory, not ignition, which is why beegbie's work-around isn't working yet.

Update...

I rewired the pink-white back to the white-black, where it was before.

Tested Pink wire again.... Pink wire on its own is still not putting out current.

I then jumpered the voliet (pin 5) to the pink wire (pin 8). The remote started the vehicle but it then died in about 1 sec.

I also tried reprogramming everything. Same results. Died after one second. Same if I used virtual tack or wired tack, option 1 and 4 on item 2, menu 3.

I also tried option 1 (ignition 1) and 2 (acc.2) on item 8, menu 3 which is the flex relay. Same results.

Hope this tells you more.

Thanks,
Larry


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LarryM

PS... all fuses tested and good.

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LarryM

It tells us we have more than one issue including a defective module. Could you list all of your connections from both the remote start and the db-all to the car?

Here are my tables for connections from the 4806 / DBall to the vehicle...









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LarryM

my diagram shows 1 ignition and 2 accesorry. ign 1 black/yellow acc 1 yellow acc 2 white/black

correct. But note that pin 3 on the remote starter harness for the 4806 is labeled as Ign.2/Flex.
Then on menu 3 of the programming you reprogram Pin 3 to ACC.2 which goes to the white/black wire.

Other ideas??????

Thank you.

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LarryM

when you check your 12v power wires/fuses. did you test before and after the fuse and not the fuse itself?

Checked at the top pins.

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LarryM

MORE INFO....

If I jumper the pink/white to the pink during crank (the engine starts) and then quickly switch the jumper from red/white to pink after the engine starts, it continues to run. I can then shut it off with the remote.

I have to thus assume that the 4806 is actually supposed to do this automatically but isn't.

Other thoughts????

Thanks.

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LarryM

check the power wires at the 4806 connector. sometimes the fuse holder does not get crimped correctly

Power tested to connector terminals plus Rach side of each fuse. All good.
Plus tested continuity on each line. All good.
Only pink wire not putting out voltage as it should for cranking and running.

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LarryM

All,

thanks for the ideas, however, after a month of screwing with this issue, I replaced the 4806, reprogrammed, and it started right up.

Bad module all along.


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LarryM