Viper 4105 2009 Chevy Aveo

Ok really getting frustrated here. Have an 09 Chevy Aveo and have some tons of research before starting this and decided to tackle it.... Not going to easy. Have a viper 4105 remote start. Have done the bypass pictured here.
I additionally have 12v running to both the 30a input wires. I also have the ground wire and neutral safety switch input wire grounded to the chassis. I have tried everything and for the life of me can't get the led to blink, come on, flash or anything. I realize none of the outputs are hooked up but no point in hooking them up if you can't even get power to the box.... Any ideas? Here is a link to the install guide as well. Thanks in advance! Dale

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/IG/Avital/N4103%25202012-01%2520web.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwi5spbXnYDWAhXD1CYKHQD7CCoQFgglMAA&usg=AFQjCNG5gQcuY8kwuqEd3EfDpmw7OX3RUQ

In order to get into programming you need the heavy pink hooked to ignition. The pink is what tells the system you turned the key on and off.

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Ok so pretty much any wire at the ignition that comes hot when I turn the key on will work? Also the 2 heavy purple wires should they both have got all the time to them or will just 1 be enough?

2 heavy purples ? Let me see if I can find the install diagram for that system. I have the 4103 install guide and there is only 1 heavy purple which is the starter output.

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Heavy Gauge Relay (H2), 6-pin connector

H2/1 goes to the orange ignition in the car
H2/2 goes to pin 85 on your diagram
H2/3 goes to lt green acc in car
H2/4 goes to red/black 12v in car
H2/5 not used
H2/6 goes to red/black 12v in car

The info came from bulldog security. Test and verify before connecting anything.

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Ok did that and no change with the led.... However it is weird sometimes when I crank it it will not shut off until I undo the 12v constant hot wires (the 2 big ones).   Bottom line still absolutely nothing from the led even doing the sequence with the valet button and switch. What is minimum wires I have to have hooked to make sure the unit isn't a faulty one. Thanks again Dale

To get into programming you need power, ground, ignition

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Sorry my bad not purple they are red was totally going off memory when wrote that. Here is the 4105 wiring diagram... Not sure how that crosses up the the h2 thing you sent me but the way I understand what your saying is if I have constant 12v going to the 2 red wires (#s 4 and 6 in the diagram) the pink wire (#1) going to an ignition source , the #8 on the 9 pin harness grounded to the chassis I should at a minimum be getting some action from the led is this correct?

It might flash depending what mode your in. Can you get into programming ? The LED should flash the menu your in.

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

No I can't get it to do anything... I'm wondering if one of the wires on the 9 pin harness needs be hot too in order for it to work.

The only thing on the 9 pin you would need is ground. Do you have the antenna plugged in ? Do you get any reaction using a remote ? Are the parking lights hooked up ? Do they flash when using the remote ?

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Don't have the parking lights hooked up yet but I will this evening and see but as of yet remote does nothing. I do have the ground hooked up though.

Weird I would hook up both reds to 12v , ground, pink to ignition, parking lights, plug in the antenna and see what happens

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Ok here's what i got... On the heavy gauge wire I have

-both reds with 12v battery going directly to them.
The pink wire to ignition wire
The pink and white to second ignition (off during crank)
Purple to starter
Orange not used

I grounded the black wire on the 9 pin harness


What I have in return is this:

    On the heavy gauge harness:
-The pink and white will go off during crank
-the solid pink stays on even during crank as long as ignition is on
-The reds stay hot all the time

     In the 9 pin harness:
-the yellow stays hot as long as the ignition switch is on
-nothing on the rest of them even pushing every button on the remote.

This is where is gets interesting. Absolutely none of the other wires get 12v at any time even pushing every button on the remote. I am using a 12v probe like to check all this. The kind you clip the ground to the negative battery and probe what you want and if it has voltage the little light will come on. Now what will happen is when I get to the satellite harness and probe pin 3 (labled 200ma starter output) I will hear a click in the brain box and if the vehicle is running it will stay running even if I turn the key if and take it out. It will run until I pull the probe light off of the wire (thus ungrounding it) then the vehicle will shut off. Outside of that I have nothing else and no action from the led light. And I checked all these pushing every button on the remote with the antenna plugged in along with all the rest of the plugs. The only thing that is not hooked up is the little toggle switch that came with it but there is no plug on the end of it just 2 blank end wires. Here's the diagram I'm going by.

Ok update.... Got the led working and am able to go in programming mode and all. I did figure out I think there are a couple of issues. #1 even though the led seems to be functioning fine with the programming and valet button the horn output never gets a signal and it's supposed to during the programming process (Brown wire on 9 pin harness). Additionally when trying to program either if the remotes that came with it neither of them seem to be getting signal to the unit. Everything works up until I am to hold down the lock button until the unit receives the signal which it never does. The led just keeps blinking twice fast then pause and with do that for about 30 seconds or so and then quit all together. Seems like I did read someone's post that had to swap their antenna out bc it was the wrong one or something but I'm beginning to wonder if it isn't the unit itself since the horn isn't getting an output signal. What would be the next steps in the arsenal to take?

Ok still stuck but doing some research apparently I have to have the door open signal hooked up to program this thing however I see nothing on the diagram that says anything about a door or dome light or whatever. I feel I am getting closer but need a little direction from this point please.

Where did you get this system from ? New or used ? How are you testing the horn output ? If using a meter it might not be fast enough to see the 20 milisecond pulse. Every new DEI system I've got always comes with the remotes programmed. As far as needing to see the door open to program. There is no input on that system to do that so I think maybe your confusing systems.

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

OK tons of progress!!!! Only one issue now. I have the system programmed to the remote and everything functioning with the exception of the starter getting a signal. I can run a wire straight to the starter from the other side of the out side of the 2 relays that is connected to the orange wire and it will start the car but as long as that wire is touching the starter continues to turn. additionally I can ground the same place and the system will work exactly like its supposed to but the car will not shut off until I remove the ground. Even with the key removed. So this tell me I am extremely close I just have a wire or 2 wrong somewhere. SO given the diagrams can you all tell me exactly what wires land to exactly where on the relays? Also what all needs to be run just straight to the chassis ground. Thanks Dale

What pin on the relay are you grounding ?   How close to the measured value did you get the resistor ?

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

I am following the diagram posted earlier to a tee for the pass lock bypass so whichever one of those is considered grounded, other than I wasn't sure which wire to put in the middle of the relays labled ignition 3 so nothing is on it. The measured value I got was 1.8 and I have a 1.3 on here.

I'm sorry my resistor is 1.5k not 1.3

So you have nothing on the ignition 3 side of the relays ( Pin 85 of the starter relay and pin 86 of the ignition relay ) ? If there wired that way they won't turn on and bypass the antitheft

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Ok I just followed that diagram... Can you show me a sketch of how you would recommend it to be wired please?

I looked and I see what you are asking about I think.. I have the starter output from the remote start to pin 85 on the first relay then a wire coming out of pin 86 of that relay to pin 85 of the second relay. Leaving pin 86 of relay #2 it ties into the orange wire at the ignition harness as well as ignition 1 from remote start. It is showing ignition 3 from remote start landing on the wire between the 2 relays and I didn't see an ignition 3 for my remote starter.

If you only connected the pins together it won't work.

There should be a blue/white called status output you can use that instead of the ignition 3 your diagram calls for, if your using the blue/white for something else you can use the blue on the satellite harness also a status output.

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Great I'll try it this afternoon

Just tried both wires and it did not work...

I ran a wire straight out to the starter and it seems to be working now.. thanks for all your help

Something is wrong in your bypass . Its starting because your bypassing the passlock system. Although it's weird it stays running

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Alright I am still having one small issue. Although it comes on and starts the process flawlessly 100% of the time about 50% of the time it will just turn over for couple seconds and never fire.... Of course it will do that cycle on its on for 3 tries and every now and then it will crank and run fine on the 2nd or 3rd cycle of it and then there are times when I have to restart the process for it... I've checked all the connections and everything I know to do even increased the"crank time" in the module to the max. Any suggestions or ideas on this? Would hooking the tach wire up help this or no bc right now it isn't connected? Thanks Dale

Do you have the system set for virtual tach or voltage sense ?

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Whatever it's set on from the factory... I can check in the morning though... Which route is better bc I don't mind running a tach wire if I need to.

Well I ran a tach wire and changed the mode seems to be working perfect now... Thanks for all your help again!!!