Python 4806P w/ DBALL2 Module Programming Issue

Installed Python 4806P with a Dball2 on a 2014 Nissan Xterra Pro-4x with automatic trans. I wired it up per Dball2 (firmware NISS1HT) Xpresskit wiring diagram. I connected all of the black solid lines and none of the dashed blue lines. Following the Module Programming steps, I got the following results: 1) LED turns ON solid red 2) Inserted and turned key to IGN and LED flashes orange

Here I encountered a problem in step 3) Turned key to OFF - LED continued to flash orange, then key to IGN position and LED continued to flash orange. LED should be solid green for 3 seconds. Side note: (When the key is inserted and in IGN position, none of the instrument panel lights illuminate)

I looked under LED diagnostics in the XpressKit guide and "Flashes Orange" indicates "All required CAN networks detected" "Normal Operation"

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Here are the connections I made per the Xpresskit diagram.
Python 8pin Red/black to Ign switch green (+12V)
Python 8pin Red to Ign switch green (+12V)
Python 8pin violet to Ign switch gray (starter)
Python 8pin Pink to Ign swithch white/green (Ignition)
Python 8pin Orange to Ign switch red (accessory)
Python 8pin pink/black and pink/white - no connection

Python 6pin red to Ign switch green (+12V)
Python 6pin black to chassis ground
Python 6pin other wires no connection

Python 3pin door lock no connection

Python 4pin D2D connected to Dball2

Python 24pin aux/shutdown - only connected gray to hood pin switch

Dball2 black 10pin no connections
Dball2 blue 14 pin connector
- tan/black to OBDII pin 6 (HS CAN high)
- tan to OBDII pin 14 (HS CAN lo)
- yellow to vehicle side of cut wire from NATS pin 4
- orange/yellow to key side of cut wire from NATS pin 4
Dball2 red 12 pin connector
- green/black to BCM pin 33
- yellow/black to NATS pin 2
- orange/black to vehicle side of cut wire from NATS pin 4

Dball2 black 10pin - no connections

Dball2 4pin D2D to Python D2D

Does the car start and run with the key?

No. When I insert the key and turn to the ignition position, there are no instrument lights that come on. If I turn the ignition switch to "start" nothing happens.

Thanks for your quick response!

does the radio come on when you turn the car on?

Thanks again for your quick response!

No. Radio does not work
Here's what happens:
1) The Nissan red security light on instrument panel is blinking and the dome lights are on. LED on DBALL2 is red.
2) Insert key: LED on DBALL2 blinks orange
3) Turn key to IGN or START. NOTHING happens. No radio. No instrument lights.
4) Remove key: door unlock activates

Start checking fuses. My guess is that you don't have 12v at the ignition switch.

Very common on Nissans and Hondas, check fuses at either battery or engine bay fusebox.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thank you very much for making me check the obvious! I feel very humbled now!

I checked the fuses. Everything was ok. I rechecked all my connections and found the white 6-pin Ignition switch connector not fully seated. When I pushed it in, I heard it click. I can't believe I missed something so elementary. Thank you for making me go check the obvious.

I am now onto my next issue. I hope you have continued patience with me.

I am now testing out the system.
1) When I press the unlock button on the 1-way LED remote, the parking lights flash 2 times. (I did not see any diagnostics for this in the manual)
2) When I press the lock button on the remote, the parking lights flash 11 times. (I did not see any diagnostics for this in the manual)
3) When I press the start button on the remote, the parking lights flash 8 times. Diagnostics indicate "neutral safety wire has no ground or the neutral safety switch is OFF"

I noticed that under Feature Menus that Menu 3 - remote start - Item 1 lists the default for transmission mode as Opt 1 "Manual". I did not connect "clutch output" or "clutch input" on the DBALL2 because I have an automatic transmission.

Was this an error on my part? Do I need to connect these or do I need to reprogram the default on Menu 3 Item 1 to Opt 2 "Automatic"?

Thanks with sincere appreciation for all your time and patience!

Program for auto; connect black/white to ground.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

The challenge continues.

Programmed auto. Retested. No change.

Connected Black/White wire to ground. Retested. Now when I press the remote start button, the parking lights begin flashing and will not stop unless I disconnect the battery. Reconnected battery. Retested. Same results.

Thanks again for your time and input helping me!

The only time I've ever seen a directed piece flash the parking lights indefinitely is when the ground is bad or not hooked up and the unit is pulling a ground from one if it's outputs (like the park light wire). The remote start tries to start, loses power then due to rapid resume logic, remembers it's supposed to be starting and starts the process all over again. That was the long way to tell you to check/change your ground.

Wow, I'm so impressed that you guys keep hanging in there with me in trouble shooting this install.

Here's where I'm at: Rechecked, grounding looked good but redid grounding anyway. No change in symptoms, so I thought what if the original power connector issue had not allowed the module to be programmed correctly. So I did a soft reset and tried the module programming again. My results: 1) solid red 2) insert key and turn to IGN position: results - flashes orange then 3x red flashes. I looked up 3x red flashes and error code is listed as "bypass data not detected". So, I checked bypass line connections. Verified not inverted. Verified good connections. Vehicle still operates correctly with key. (side note: when i ignored the 3x orange flashes and turned the key to the OFF position and then back to IGN to verify key start still works, LED turned green for 3 seconds and then off - like a normal programming sequence)

So I'm at a stop again. I'm done for today, but tomorrow I'll re-check the "bypass lines" again.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks again for taking the time to continue to give my advice. Very much appreciated!

Rechecked "bypass lines" again and they all looked good.

Is it normal for the Module Programming to go solid green for 3 sec and then off (normal sequence) if I ignore the 3x red flashes at the end of step 2 and go on to step 3 where I turn off the IGN and back ON? Shouldn't it stay at 3x red flashes if the problem with the bypass lines is still present?

A follow-on to my last question: If the vehicle starts with the key, then the "immobilizer data" from pin 4 on the NATS connector is being passed through the DBALL (input 14pin pin 9 and output pin 8) - correct?

If this is the case, then the 3x red led flashing (error code "bypass data not detected") during Module Programming doesn't make sense to me.

A clarification to my last post: my question stems from the Immobilizer Data line from the NATS Antenna Connector pin 4 being cut and the key side being connected to DBALL Data input pin 9 on the 14 pin connector and the output pin 8 on the 14 pin connector to the vehicle side of the cut wire. Therefore it seems the data has to go through the DBALL when the key is used in the ignition switch. So it seems the "bypass data" is getting to the DBALL module.

I hope I haven't worn out my welcome here and asked too many questions. I truly appreciate the time those have spent answering my questions so far. I hope my experiences during this install will help someone else in the future.

So one last question before I replace the DBall module. All of the installation instructions and diagrams I got with the DBALL module are labeled "DBALL2 Firmware NISS1HT XPRESSKIT Rev 201725". Looking at the actual module, it is labeled "DB3", which is supposedly a replacement for the DB2.

Does anyone know if the wiring diagrams listed in the XPRESSKIT Rev 201725, which pictures a DBALL2, are still good for the DB3?

The Db-all is not the issue here as they are a little finicky when learning on Nissans. To prove this theory, unplug the Db-3, temporarily reconnect the cut Immobilizer wire and try the remote start. I'll bet you have the same issue. If so, we need to focus on what's wrong with the remote start.

Thanks beegbie for your input. I came to the same conclusion over the last couple of days of t/s and so I returned the remote start. I'll let you know the results when I get a new one installed.

Have you checked for a Starter 2 wire and an Accessory 2 Wire? Omega wiring lists those as Starter 2, Pin 6, Light Green. Accessory 2, Pin 5 Green/Yellow. I didn't see those connections on your post.

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Thanks smokeman1 for your input. I came to the same conclusion as beegbie over the last couple of days of t/s and so I returned the remote start. I'll let you know the results when I get a new one installed.

2nd starter wire is needed on many older Nissans but not on this one. If you look at a factory diagram for the 2014 x-terra, the second starter wire in the ignition harness doesn't actually do anything. It doesn't connect to anything in the car.

You need to connect the red white heavy gauge power cable to a 12v souce i didnt see that wire in your ignition harness wiring and if the parking lights are flashing after you activate the remote start that is normal it means the remote start is on if connecting the red white wire doesn't work make sure you have power on your red black heavy gauge 12v +

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abethebue