2003 Sierra Duramax only starts on 2nd crank

Hopefully ya'll can help me fix this issue.

Parts:
Viper 5706v & DB3 wired in D2D (tach not hardwired)

Problem:
When remote starting the truck, it will fire up then shut off right away (cluster turns off also, unless check engine is set to "Off"). When I turn off remote start via the remote and remote start it again, it'll continue running.
On first start the truck will start, passlock light will come on, truck will turn off, and the passlock light will flash about 3 times, then turn off.
On second start the truck will start, passlock light will come on, truck will start, light will turn off.

After first start it'll continue to properly remote start, unless left for longer amount of time (about 10-15+ min)

Problem 2:
Shock sensor not working. It's plugged into sensor 1 of the viper brain.

Things i've tried:
Relearning Virtual tach (3 times)
Change engine checking to virtual tach, voltage check, off, and tach
Changed the start duration up to 1.4sec with engine checking set to off (its enough cranking time)
Relearned immobilizer (using soft reset)
Reset alarm features, and reprogram them again.

I should add, I have better chance of it to continue to run if the truck is unlocked.

2003 GMC Sierra Duramax Diesel 4 door

Update: Its starts perfectly every time I unlock it first. (Factory disarmed?) I'm going to swap that DB3, and see what happens. I'll update this post if anything happens.

Program for safe start.
3 secs diesel delay?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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Program for safe start.
3 secs diesel delay?

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Thank you for your response. If you're referring to "Remote Start Safelock", I just programmed it to on, but no avail.

Passlock isn't being bypassed/interfaced with properly.

Passlock shouldn't stay illuminated when remote start the car, (The clusters behavior should mimic what it does with the key) A good way to test this is to hold the key(plastic part, where the RFID chip is) against the key cylinder, so it covers whered you'd normally put the key in. Try to R/S if it starts every time, passlock is locking the ECU, and not allowing for fuel output. If this doesn't work, and the car still doesn't start, insert the key into the ignition and see if that works. If its the latter, key sense needs to be wired up if it hasn't already.

If the first solution I recommended works, double check your DB3 wiring. - it also wouldn't hurt to run a disarm wire and program unlock/disarm before start.

Lastly, I'd definitely program wait to start for longer than 1.4 seconds. In the winter time, your glowplugs will definitely need to be warmed for longer than that. I don't recall the maximum off the top of my head, but that is what I always programed it to. I want to say it was between 8-13 seconds.

Last thing(honestly). I would One hundred percent, run a tach wire to a fuel injector/Tachometer wire at the Gauge cluster. Virtual Tach will most likely let you down in the winter.

Good luck,

Ryan