2015 Wrangler/ ALCA ignition wiring

doing a 2015 jeep wrangler with the idata and viper 4115. no power locks. on the schematic show pink wire coming out of the ALCA going to the ignition input of the remote start. It also ties in to the white/red ignition status wire with a diode band facing the remote start. I am getting a flashing red while trying to program..missing information or wrong programming.. Right in the middle of this one.. Any help would be great...Thanks

Verify the wiring is exactly as shown in diagram #3. Specifically the diode orientation and that the ADS AL-CA 3 Pin harness with the White, White/Red and White/Black wires is plugged in fully. Also verify the CAN wire connections are good and not reversed.

What step is the module programming failing?

-------------
Soldering is fun!

I reflashed the module yesterday. I checked can high and can low along with MUX and ignition. all soldered... programmed fine. but would not start the jeep. reset the module and when I went to select data or hardwire I hold the button for hardwire and I get a red light.. then the red flashes slow all the time.. no matter what!!!!

If you didn't already, try the reset with the module completely disconnected / removed from the Jeep. I usually perform the CH-5 flash, then a module reset, followed by the Mode set routine all prior to connection to the vehicle. Never really had any issues with this type install other than the normal vehicle getting "upset" when the CAN connections are made prior to programming.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Can you explain the comment on the Can wires. I have never seen that before....????I have had everything connected while programming!!!!

With Chrysler products, during the install I connect the Black Ground wire first, then all of the rest of the needed R/S & bypass wires ( fuses out ) leaving the CAN wires for last. Typically, as soon as the CAN wires are connected the vehicle starts playing the Chime tones as if the Parking lights are left ON or a door is open with the key in the ignition switch. Very annoying but it goes away as soon as I insert fuses and program the bypass module to the vehicle.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

2015 jeep with ch5 t-harness all hardwired ans soldered. Is there any connection 0f the green/red or purple wire coming out of the white plug of the harness... I did not show a connection on the ALCA tech sheet.

When I go to choose data or hardwire I get the green light after choosing hardwire,,then it goes right to red. it goes out then flashes slowly. I continue on through the programming and it completes green light goes out. When I go to remote start it I get 9 green flashes on the module. does this twice and goes out.... I am lost.. I swithched to the ch-5 t-harness... still no luck

Here is how I do it. With the CH5 firmware I never use the T-Harness. I always go hardwire with all connections. The inter-
connections between the 4115 and the ADS AL-CA aren't too bad, beside the +12V, Ground and GRW, you need Starter,
Tach and Brake. The time consuming part is the Ignition connections with the diode and ADS AL-CA internal relay. All
that is done on the bench prior to install.

Next comes the ADS AL-CA programming at the PC. Very straight forward. I usually choose ADS instead of DBI because
I'm going W2W anyway. After programming, I use a +12V power supply and a cut off 4 Pin D2D cable to perform a Factory
reset on the module. This is shown on Page 19. At Step 5, the module will start doing a slow single Green flash to indicate
that it is ready to going into Data Mode. I press the programming button once and the Green LED starts doing a double
Green flash ( Standard Mode W2W ). I press and hold the programming button and lock in Standard Mode as shown at the
top of Page 18. Then I disconnect my 4 pin power harness and put the ADS AL-CA back into the bench prepped R/S assy.

I mentioned the vehicle connection steps above, all done with the R/S fuses out. Once everything is connected properly, I
insert the fuses and start the bypass Module Programming Procedure shown on Page 18. Your only difference will be at
Step 7, being as the Jeep doesn't have RKE. Just press the ADS AL-CA programming button at this step.

Once the bypass module programming is successfully completed, you should do the Viper Tach Learn and verify that part
went correctly. You might have to Program the Viper to Engine Checking = Tach. Last would be a remote start.

The ADS AL-CA CH5 Type 3 Diagram shows most of the connections. The Viper still needs a few more to work.

9 Pin
Pin 8 to Chassis Ground
Pin 9 to Parking Lights * set to (+)      Parking Light wire(s) in PKP

5 Pin
Pin 1 to Chassis Ground for Auto Trans ( 4115 is not M/T approved )
Pin 2 to ADS AL-CA Tach output
Pin 3 to ADS AL-CA Brake output
Pin 4 to Viper kit Hood Pin
Pin 5 to ADS AL-CA GWR Input

6 Pin heavy
Pin 1 as per CH5 Type 3 diagram
Pin 2 to ADS AL-CA Starter Input
Pin 4 and Pin 6 joined together, fused down to 10 Amps, to +12V constant

4 Pin Satellite harness not used
3 Pin Door Lock harness not used

If you are still getting strange indications from the ADS AL-CA module, try another one.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

What I am getting right now is 9 green flashes on the ALCA module when I hit the remote start transmitter. This is a second module I have flashed and reset. Just needed to know what the 9 green flashes means????

Not sure on that indication. The only thing the install guide states is that a Green blinking LED during a R/S attempt is
Correctly Programmed and Operational. Doesn't mention any specific flash count. Perhaps a call to iDatalink is in order.
I've never encountered a problem like that.

Just a thought, is the rest of the Viper wired as per above? Specifically the thick Violet Starter output to the ADS AL-CA
Black/White wire ( W2W mode ) and both of the thick Reds going to +12V?



-------------
Soldering is fun!

yes... I am going to double check voltages with my meter..thank you

It was a cold soldered joint on the ignition wire feeding the module. When I metered it it was a wacky low number. Cut the connection and reconnected. Works great.. Thanks for your help!!!!

Great news! Glad it's working OK now.

-------------
Soldering is fun!