2010 Forester, Avital 4105

Hi! names MIke from NY. just joined to ask a few questions. I am putting a remote starter in my 2010 forester an Avital 4105 with a DB3 data bus interface (Directed). I was an installer back in the 90's but that when the chipped keys just started to come out. anyhow I have a question, what is this chip that is tapped to my remote start? its under the red tape. I don't see it going into anything.
also am I suppose to twist these like this for the immobilizer data connections?
any help would be great. the guy I bought the db3 from programed it so I am hoping it works ok if not I am up the creek.

sorry the pics are so large lol

It's a jumper/shunt for selecting parking light polarity?

Yes, Parking Light jumper.



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Soldering is fun!

oh ty much! I don't know why they don't mention this somewhere in the paperwork.

No help on the immobilizer wire? Anybody?somebody?

Twist? Never. Always solder.

All of the bypass manufacturers are doing that vehicle pretty much the same way.   Both of the
shown IMMO wires get cut and joined together along with a wire or two from the bypass module.
In the case of your chosen bypass module, follow the install guide wiring diagram exactly. All
those connections should be properly soldered and insulated. In this case you could easily use
heat shrink tube instead of Scotch Super 33+ tape.


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Soldering is fun!

thank you, I just wanted to be sure I had it write. I think I need to get it reflashed, I hear the door lock relays in the bypass clicking when I hit the remote but nothing happens and the car don't start, going to play with it some more tomorrow. ty

right**

ok so if I can get a little more help on wiring a relay. its not even attempting to start, so I was checking things over and but my test light to 85 (-starter 2 output) it had a dim light ( little power) while off. I tried starting ti with the test light still touching 85 and it cranked over but shut off after a second. now I am wondering if I need to wire the relay differently. this is what the immobilizer bypass diagram has.

So I found this in the forums and wonder if its a better option.

I wouldn't think 85 should have + voltage on it when the car is off at any time. any help would be great.

Describe your "test light" and connection setup.   The 4105 (-) Starter output is probably rated at 200mA. You would need a computer safe LED tester to really check it out or a Digital Multi Meter. That being said the relay wiring shown in your post above should work fine for that application. If for some reason the 4105's (-) Starter output was bad, you could use that second method keying off of the (+) Starter1 wire. You could use the 4105's second (-) Status Output if you went W2W and were using the Dark Blue (-) Status Output already.

That positive voltage your were seeing at Pin 85 was coil feed thru from Pin 86 and its' connection to +12V. This indicates that the test light you were using is supplying the ground path thru its' ( incandescent? ) bulb.

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Soldering is fun!

its just a basic probe

connected to ground and you are correct the lead from the remote start is - 200ma its a very tiny wire and I think it may not be supplying what it needs for the relay? all I know is when I was touching it with the probe and tried the starter it turned over every time (but didn't stay running). if it was just the wire from the 4105 it did not try to turn over at all. I wonder if the relay is bad, its unused but has been sitting around for years. I may try the other one later. the immobilizer is making this a pain, I have installed dozens of remote starts back in the day. I should have just hid a key in the steering column :( thanks for any and all help!

You really can't test that way. The 4105 is outputting a (-) signal and you have the test probe connected to chassis ground. Both are the same thing.

The 30/40 Amp SPDT relay only needs 75mA to hold in the ON position.

You could test the relay by using your test probe to check the Pin 30 output during a remote start attempt. It's output should mirror the 4105's Violet Starter1 (+) output. You could disconnect the relay from the cars Starter2 wire and check it that way. Even a static test on the relay removed from the 5 wire harness with +12V to Pin 86 and ground to Pin 85. The relay will click and there should be continuity between pins 87 and 30.

You can eliminate the bypass as an issue by holds a key up to the ignition switch during a remote start attempt.




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Soldering is fun!

1) is the DBALL programmed ?
2) did you submit the Key2go ?

yes its programmed I bought it off ebay and they programed it for me, it does attempt to start so I assume its working. as far as the key2go I have no idea what it is and assumed it had something to do with the programming they put on the immobilizer. the Directechs website wants certified installers only so I cant get in to do anything. I was an installer back in the 90's but that does me no good now. This is the first time I have had to deal with am immobilizer and have no idea what the process is.

key2go is the 2nd part of learning/ coping the key... when you say it tries to start, is that with the key in the ignition? assuming you car has an immobilizer..

well as it turns out I needed to connect the tach wire :( fro what I remembered we only hooked it up for standards. none the less its only works with the key in the ignition. I emailed the people I got it from and they told me I have to send it back to them to have the key2go part done! needless to say I am not happy, I have been fighting with this thing for a week thinking it was my install when they left out the fact I need to send it back to finish the job! I have been driving around with this thing hanging under my dash for a week and now I need to ship it from ny to ca and back before I can finish the install! going to look for someone local before I send it out. I know this ebay seller is getting a 3 star review from me!

Hate to say it, but you should have checked the DB-ALL install guide for that vehicle. It would have given all the necessary programming steps and Key2Go is in there somewhere. Yes, the seller should have mentioned it but I wouldn't be too mad at them. You might find it real hard to get a local shop to do the Key2Go portion for you at this point. Remember that all the bypass module programming steps up to Key2Go must be successfully completed first or Key2Go won't work.

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Soldering is fun!

you could always skip the key2go, and lose a key. and use the DB3 for convenience features only (which includes data tach) This might be the best option, unless you want to reconnect the IMMO wires you twisted together while you are shipping it / waiting for it to come back

yeah kinda kills the point for me really, I already sent it out going to be like 2 weeks before I get it back :( now my car sets the alarm every time I lock the door and my factory remote don't work, so when I open the door the alarm going off :P

Well at the time I didn't even understand what I was really dealing with, the whole bypass immobilizer thing is new to me, I did read it but it was well after I received the unit in the mail. the seller seems well informed and I think when he flashed it for my Subaru he should have realized I was going to have to send it back to finish the job and alerted me. It turned my 2hr job into a 3 week job. cost me another $11 shipping and I am driving around with a remote start hanging under my dash. I was hoping the key2go thing was something he had to do before he sent it, but no.