Wiring PTS System - 3 Ignition Wires, PTT Has 2

I was given one of those (probably eBay/Amazon) RFID Push to Start kits. Everything seems to look of decent quality, nice heavy gauge wiring, etc.

I have a "spare" car i'm installing it in, just my fun, random project type car so its a perfect guinea pig. Its a 2005 Mercury Grand Marquis GS. (I have appropriate wiring diagrams for it)

Im pretty handy with wiring, (probably not compared to most of you on here) the unit has a handful of wires. All are self explanatory (acc, ignition 1, ignition 2, brake switch, starter, 12v constant, ground, etc)

My issue: the car has 3 ignition wires. PTT unit has 2. So someone might think to just tie two together, and connect it to one of the ignition wires on the unit. I didn't want to try that, and risk burning something up. I decided to use a relay. Upon testing after I wired it all up, its close to being right, but the relay is screwing things up.

Heres what happens: (Its freezing outside, and dark, so i'm not worried about the ignition at the moment, so right now, its gonna be turning the key on to unlock the shift mechanism, and to make the PATS system happy)
(This scenario is just having the key near the ignition which is good enough for the PATS system)
Press the PTT button once, accessories come on as they should. Radio, windows, etc
Press it again, it mimics the key being turned to the "on" position. Gauges come to life, HVAC controls work, etc
Put my foot on the brake and press the button, the starter (for lack of a better term) clicks once, and doesn't start. (Not a PATS issue) (If I press the brake pedal from it being off, it'll turn everything on and then try to start, but do the same random thud/click as if the starter wanted to engage but didn't)

Then, pressing the brake pedal, and pushing the button again turns the system off. Some of my idiot lights on the gauges stay on, as well as something under the dash thats barely audible. IF I unplug that relay, it all turns off, and things are normal. If I put the key in the ignition, and turn it to "ON" and then use the PTT to start it, it works flawlessly. I can take the key out and everything is working. However, when I turn it off, I once again have to pull that relay. The relay is working as it should, but it seems like its staying on when it should turn off, I think? If I start it with JUST the key, I get the same problem with the idiot lights staying on and have to pull the relay

Lets use random wires for example.

Ignition 1: blue
Ignition 2: red
Ignition 3: green

PTT Ignition 1 output: orange
PTT Ignition 2 output: yellow

I have:
Output 1 orange, connected to ignition 1 blue
Output 2 yellow, connected to relay input trigger AND ignition 2 red
Relay output connected to ignition 3 green

Is this not the way it should have been done? Can I not wire it up in a way to work with my car? Should I just try connecting both ignition wires to ignition 2 output on the PTT?

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2006 Explorer XLT
2009 Ford Fusion SEL

You 3rd IGN relay can also be turned on by the cars 2nd IGN without the RFID PTS system being engaged. Turn this using two
relays to isolate the ignition wires completely :



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Soldering is fun!

Ok, that makes definite sense. Thats what I was thinking, but for some reason couldn't put it in words!

Now im a bit lost. I understand most of it, but on your diagram in the left bottom, is that my ignition, OR is that the PTT system ignition 2 output?

Im *assuming* this is the PTT, ignition output 2 is the "trigger" for both relays input 86?


Thanks a TON!

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2006 Explorer XLT
2009 Ford Fusion SEL

Exactly correct, in the lower left corner is the add on system, similar to your PTT Yellow wire in your post.
This diagram is from a ReadyRemote install guide. They show how to create a 3rd ignition output using the
ReadyRemotes 2nd IGN output as the relay control. It does use another relay to keep a 2nd IGN output. If
your PTT system had an output called (-) 200mA Ignition or something like that, you could use it and just
one relay to create IGN3.

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Soldering is fun!

Okay, so your diagram fixed that issue I was having. Thanks a TON! Ive never dealt with a "dual" relay setup, now it makes perfect sense.

Now my issue is, I get no crank. I get a thud as if it was going to crank, accessories shut off, but wont actually crank and start (Not a PATS issue) Im getting 12v out from the starter output. (My starter wire is a very small gauge, so its just a trigger wire, not a high-amp wire)

IF I put my key in the ignition, and turn it to "on" and then run the PTT, it cranks just fine.

Any ideas here? Im racking my brain, and can't figure this one out. Wiring is all correct according to the wiring diagram, and the relays are correct.



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2006 Explorer XLT
2009 Ford Fusion SEL

Im wondering if it has to do with two wires I didn't touch in the harness. I believe they're both black with a pink stripe. Could this be the system that tells the vehicle its in park or neutral and won't crank unless it is?

Every diagram I pull, doesn't mention these wires. Thats about the only feasible thing I can think of. Any assistance with bypassing that system, or getting it to function as intended with the PTT? This unit has no extra outputs or anything.

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2006 Explorer XLT
2009 Ford Fusion SEL

Think we need to see the install guide for the PTT system and your current connections.

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Soldering is fun!

The install guide is truly wiz-poor. It basically shows the wire colors and functions.

I will try to upload a copy of it soon. But it works perfect, when my key is turned on.

Im almost positive its got something to do with the neutral safety switch, but I cannot find any diagrams on it. None of the remote start wire diagram websites mention those two extra wires in my ignition harness plug.

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2006 Explorer XLT
2009 Ford Fusion SEL

You could try to hot wire the car. It would require a few fused jumper wires. Apply power to all IGN type wires, tape key to ignition cylinder and apply +12V to the Starter wire to crank the engine. If that works, then those extra wires are un-necessary. The Accessory type wire(s) are not needed but could be powered too.

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Soldering is fun!

That’s exactly what this module is doing.

Ignition 1, 2, 3 wires, 1 accessory, 1 12v constant, 1 brake pedal switch feed and 1 ground.

Someone on the Crown Vic group said that I need to try grounding the starter relay because the non-P71 ground goes through the PCM. Grounding it will disable PATS (which is fine by me) but I’m having trouble figuring out how I’m supposed to figure that wire out, the fuse box is under my hood, with one large wire loom coming out of it.


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2006 Explorer XLT
2009 Ford Fusion SEL

Its definitely a PATS or Neutral Safety Switch issue.

I was told to ground pin 85 of the starter relay, because PATS disables the starter if it detects the wrong/no key. With that pin grounded, the PTT will crank the engine, however, it wont start, because I also found out that PATS disables the fuel injectors. So I know the PTT is hooked up correctly, as in its doing all its supposed to do.

The two wires I keep mentioning, the black/pink (pink might be purple?) are actually going in to the same pin on the ignition harness plug. They get 12v as soon as the key is pushed into the ignition, and in all positions, but I didn't check the crank position, so I don't know if they get 12v there. Simply having the key in the ignition is not enough, it has to be turned all the way to "On" (Or Run if thats what you call it)

If my key is turned to the on/run position, and I use the PTT button, it fires right up as it should. I can even take the key out and it stays running (of course, with no key, I cant get it out of park, but i'm not at that point yet)

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2006 Explorer XLT
2009 Ford Fusion SEL

Here are my thoughts on our car.   I believe the car has 2 ignition wires, two accessory wires and one starter wire.

IGNITION 1........PURPLE/ORANGE (+)
IGNITION 2........WHITE/LIGHT BLUE (+)
ACCESSORY 1.......GRAY/YELLOW (+)
ACCESSORY 2.......WHITE/PURPLE (+)
STARTER...........DARK GREEN (+)

The Black/Pink is a (+) Keysense wire. It should go the +12V when the key is inserted and stay at +12V
with the key turned to START.

You should use a DMM to check, test and verify each of these wires found at the ignition switch harness to
determine the ignition type wires from the accessory type wires.

It would appear that your PKK connections don't match or do everything that the key does during start
up. If the PKK will work when the key is in and set to ON, you want to try and set the PKK up to do the
same thing.

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Soldering is fun!

I will double check and probe all the connections, but all the diagrams I originally pulled, said 3 ignition, 1 accessory.

I also just finally found a diagram that explains the black/pink wire, like you said needing 12v with the key. One of them goes to the LCM, one to the driver door module. (If that was the only issue, then surely just having the key in the ignition while trying to use the PTS button would work)

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2006 Explorer XLT
2009 Ford Fusion SEL

Yep, Keysense is not the whole problem. Having an ACC wire powered as an IGN wire is not a huge issue but
the other way around is. If an ignition wires stays at +12V when the key is at START, it should be powered
as an IGN type wire.

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Soldering is fun!

I’m thinking you may be on to something here.

I pulled my starter relay, so I could turn the key to crank without cranking the engine while I probe with my DMM.

I noticed something. When I use my key, and turn it to crank, my gauge lights stay on (all the warning indicators)

When I use the PTT, when it goes to crank the starter, the gauge cluster shuts off and restarts as soon as I let off the button.

I’m thinking it’s killing power to one of the ignition wires when it cranks, but I’m gonna have to probe around even more now and figure that out.

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2006 Explorer XLT
2009 Ford Fusion SEL

The PTS system is killing power to one of the ignition outputs when cranking.

I think this is my issue, obviously it’s causing issues but let’s hope some relay magic will make it work as intended.

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2006 Explorer XLT
2009 Ford Fusion SEL

Just wanted to give a final update.

My car in fact does have 3 ignition wires, and 1 accessory.

I probed the PTS unit, and sure enough found out that it killed power to one of the two ignition outputs when it would crank. This in turn would disable most of the car, rendering the no start, and no crank issue. (I believe one of the circuits it killed included the PATS system, so it wouldn’t let it crank)

I used the other wire as the trigger, because the second output was simply a trigger wire for my relays controlling the other two ignition outputs, and the system works flawlessly now.

Thanks for everyone’s help and suggestions!

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2006 Explorer XLT
2009 Ford Fusion SEL