Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2016 Impreza, Fortin EVO-ONE

I have a 2016 Subaru Impreza with a standard key ignition. I installed a Fortin EVO-ONE with the T-Harness and RF kit over the weekend. Everything is working great, but just one small minor thing.

It seems like the RF kit (fortin) key fob doesn't lock or unlock the doors when the remote start is running. If I start it remotely, I have to use the factory OEM key fob to unlock the doors to get into the vehicle. Additionally, the remote start should lock the door after it's remote started but this doesn't work either. If I press a button on the aftermarket fob, the parking lights flash like it should unlock the doors but it just doesn't.

It's as if the lock/unlock function is disabled through the EVO-ONE while the car is remote started.

I was wondering if anybody has experienced this before or have any suggestions on what to look for or program.

Thank you in advanced!

You might want to verify that you have the EVO-ONE's connections to the cut Door Lock Data wire
correct and not reversed. The A20 Light Blue wires goes to the connector side of the cut.

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

You might want to verify that you have the EVO-ONE's connections to the cut Door Lock Data wire
correct and not reversed. The A20 Light Blue wires goes to the connector side of the cut.

Thanks for the response. I'll check this out tonight. I'm almost positive that I got it wired up correctly but I'm only human.

I'm not sure what your experience is, but do you know if this should properly work on a 2016 Impreza (the unlock while running)?

Thanks!

It should but not positive. I use iDatalink modules on these cars. Recently did a 2012 Impreza with a
Compustar CS800-s unit and an ADS AL-CA bypass module. Similar vehicle connections. Worked flawlessly.

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

It should but not positive. I use iDatalink modules on these cars. Recently did a 2012 Impreza with a
Compustar CS800-s unit and an ADS AL-CA bypass module. Similar vehicle connections. Worked flawlessly.

Thanks! I'll take a look at it tonight. Luckily, that plug that controls the door data was the last one on the BCM. I'm hoping that maybe I can pull it out without taking half the dash apart tonight.

Worst case, I can probably pop off that panel in front of the fuse box, remove part of the fuse box, and get to the bcm again.

Interesting... I'm just thinking about this more and you may be onto something. When the car is not remote started, the blue led flashes on the EVO-ONE unit with the lock/unlock, meaning there's data going across the can bus. When it's remote started, no blue light, meaning no data going across the can bus but the parking lights flash. So maybe it's relying on the door lock data wires to lock the door while it's running, but maybe I reversed them so it can't.

Man, I would feel stupid if I reversed the wires, but I'll let you know anyways. :)

Thanks!!

OK, I just checked and they are wired as they should. Light blue and white/red to the bcm side adn white/green to the car side.

Any other ideas that I can check? Thanks in advanced.

Sorry, while I've used a bunch of EVO-ALL's, I've never used a EVO-ONE. I have found
Fortin's Tech Support very helpful, if another Forum member doesn't chime in.

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

Sorry, while I've used a bunch of EVO-ALL's, I've never used a EVO-ONE. I have found
Fortin's Tech Support very helpful, if another Forum member doesn't chime in.

I sent an E-Mail off to them yesterday and the rep was helpful in giving me a few ideas. I checked my door wiring and it is indeed wired up correctly. I sent him a response with the information he requested and now just waiting to hear back.

I'm hoping that it's something like a firmware update, but we'll see. I'm getting tired of digging around under the dash. :)

I have a 2016 Impreza and installed a Fortin EVO-One in it the other day. I've been having a few issues (like it not working) with the car locking and unlocking with the aftermarket FOB. I've been in contact with the company and they wanted me to wire into the analog doorlock wires.

The tech gave the following information:

Negative Lock
Light Green / Black
White Connector in Driver Kick Panel

Negative Unlock
Blue / Black
White Connector in Driver Kick Panel

Unfortunately, I kind of think there's a lot of wires and numerous white connectors in the driver kick panel. I haven't checked, but just from poking around in there, I think it will be somewhat difficult to locate.

Does anybody happen to have a reference diagram or picture of a more specific area to look?

Thanks!

Sorry, no photo's of that area. The iDatalink modules I use work fine using the CAN Bus and Lock Data wires.

Here is some more info :

POWER LOCK LT. GREEN/BLACK (-) TYPE B in DRIVERS KICK, WHITE 28-Pin Plug, Pin 15

POWER UNLOCK BLUE/BLACK (-) TYPE B in DRIVERS KICK, WHITE 28-Pin Plug, Pin 16

With that info, you are looking for a White 28 Pin plug in the DKP that has those color wires at those pin
locations. Of course you must test those wires to be sure. If you don't have a computer safe LED test light
or probe, you can use a Digital Multi Meter. Set the DMM to 20V DC. Connect the Red test lead to +12V
constant and the Black test lead to the suspect wire. The meter should read 0V. When you trigger the
signal the reading should go to +12V momentarily. You might have to trigger the signal with the lock
control switch in the door, use the Factory remotes or use a key in the driver door lock cylinder to trigger
the signal. It depends on the vehicle so don't give up on a wire until you tried all three ways.

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Soldering is fun!

THanks for the information. I've been studying the service manual today and I think I found where it's at.

Also, thank you for hte information on how to test for it. I don't have a test light but I do have a Digital Multimeter. I read the analog ones are bad because they put some energy on the lines. I'll be sure to use my digital one.

If you don't mind me asking, the "lock data wires" that you spoke about in the first paragraph. Are those the digital connections, whereas the ones in the 28 pin harness are the analog ones? I agree, it should work over the CAN and lock wires. Last question. What happens if you get the door lock data wires on the bypass relay reversed? I ask because while I wired it up properly, another poster elsewhere said the guide was wrong and the wires should be reversed.

Thank you again for all of your help!

The DMM should be fine. That way of testing uses reverse logic to detect a (-) pulse.

The Data Lock wire is the one you cut at the BCM. It uses digital data on one wire to control
the locks. I would definitely try reversing the wire connections ( or just the Light Blue wire )
to see if it works. It's a digital output from the EVO-ONE and will not hurt anything. They
have had wiring diagram errors before so give it a shot. You would think that the Tech Support
person would have heard of this problem before. I spent several hours trying to get their
solution for a PTS Lexus working, never did and switched it to an iDatalink module. A week
later they changed their guides to reflect that Enform equipped Lexus vehicles were not supported.
It happens....

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Soldering is fun!

Hi!

I'm still trying to get the doors to open on the aftermarket keyfob while the remote start is running. I'm trying to get this going on a 2016 Subaru Impreza Standard Key.

The company wanted me to write it into the Negative Lock and Unlock on the vehicle. The EVO-ONE's output for the lock/unlock (-) is 750ma. I did and unfortunately, still nothing.

I started looking at the ADL-AL manual and they are showing that you should use a relay. The Evo-One doesn't talk about a relay and the customer service rep didn't mention it.

Does anybody know if you need a relay? Do you know how to test if an EVO-One requires a relay, and how to possibly test that a signal is getting outputted on the door lock/unlock from the evo?

Thanks!

The iDatalink ADS AL-CA w/DL-SUB3 firmware needs an external relay to open the cut Door Data wire. The ADS AL-CA only has one built in relay and that one is being used for the IMMO wire. The EVO-ONE (and EVO-ALL) has 2 built-in relays and can handle the cut Door Data wire directly.

If you are on the Impreza's door lock and unlock wires, the (-) 750mA outputs from the EVO-ONE should be able to make the locks work.

Did you try reversing the Door Lock Data wires?

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

Did you try reversing the Door Lock Data wires?

Yup, I did try that and it didn't work. I'm thinking that the EVO-ONE isn't outputting the door lock data for some reason while the remote start is running. I'm not sure why, and I'm not sure how to test it. If I could test it on the EVO-ONE, I'd be a little happier.

The company wanted me to try the analog door lock wires, which I did, but it still didn't work. This is why I was wondering if I needed a relay. The ADS shows a relay but the EVO doesn't, and Fortin didn't say anything about putting a relay in. It now sounds like I don't need a relay, saving me 10 bucks. (Thank You)

Where I'm at with it is I'm not positive the door output is getting sent out of the EVO, and the company is now telling me to bring it into an authorized installer for them to look at it. I don't want to go that route because it's far away, I'm pretty comfortable with electronics, I've done this much so far, and I'm not sure how much it'll cost for them to look over things.

Thanks!

While it is not always a perfect test because it does not verify the current handling capabilities of the R/S output, you can verify that at least the EVO-ONE is outputting the analog Lock and Unlock pulses with a Digital Multimeter. Here is the setup : Set DMM to 20V DC, Connect the Red test lead to +12V Constant and the Black test lead to the Lock Output wire. The DMM should read 0V. Press the R/S Lock button. You should see the Parking Lights flash and the DMM go to +12V momentarily. The typical output is usually around 1 second. A computer safe LED test light/probe would show this Lock output pulse better. Repeat the test for the Unlock wire.

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

While it is not always a perfect test because it does not verify the current handling capabilities of the R/S output, you can verify that at least the EVO-ONE is outputting the analog Lock and Unlock pulses with a Digital Multimeter. Here is the setup : Set DMM to 20V DC, Connect the Red test lead to +12V Constant and the Black test lead to the Lock Output wire. The DMM should read 0V. Press the R/S Lock button. You should see the Parking Lights flash and the DMM go to +12V momentarily. The typical output is usually around 1 second. A computer safe LED test light/probe would show this Lock output pulse better. Repeat the test for the Unlock wire.

Thank you for this information. I saw you explained this the other day to me when you were helping me hunt (verify) down my lock/unlock wires. I actually did do this test and it worked on the car side. I thought that since it worked on the car side, it should work on the evo side too. I did the same thing and unfortunately, I saw nothing. While I'm not an expert, it sounds like it's either not outputting that door lock/unlock, maybe it's outputting that signal for too short, or maybe it's not a strong enough signal.

Since I'm on my own here, is there anything else that I can do? See if a relay works? Just live with it as it is?

Thanks!!

While I'm sure the Fortin Tesch Support asked these questions...
Is Option C1 set to ON?
Do you have the THAR-SUB1 Pink wire also connected to EVO-ALL Pink wire at A1?

As for going direct from the EVO-ONE to the vehicles analog wires, I'm assuming that
Fortin Tech Support had you connect the EVO-ONE Purple wire at A2 to the Lock wire
and the Purple/White wire at A3 to the Unlock wire?
And from your updates this did not work?
And that you used your DMM to test those EVO-ONE wires and that there was no (-) pulse
output?

I'm not able to check the actual wire programming inside the EVO-ONE and it's flashed
firmware so it's possible that these lock outputs are not setup and functional.

OK, does the Power Lift Gate control from the EVO-ONE remotes work? If yes, you could
disconnect that wire from the Brown/White wire at the lift gate switch and connect it to
the vehicles analog Unlock wire. Now when you press the EVO-ONE remote to actuate the lift
gate it will unlock the doors. That will prove that your have the right vehicle Unlock wire
and that the EVO-ONE can control it.

Your options are somewhat limited. The EVO-ONE and it's wire outputs are pretty much all
controlled by the firmware flashed on the module. It would be nice to have a spare EVO-ONE
to try.

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Soldering is fun!

Thank you so much for your information. I'm a DIY installer but have done numerous car radio installs, amps, home wiring projects, etc... Many people rave about Fortin's support, and while they've been helpful, I feel like they don't really help much for the home installer group. I can partly understand it because I'm sure many have screwed things up, but just tell me the information please.

And part of me has that unhelped feeling just because Fortin wasn't really telling me all that much. They never ran through install options with me, never asked a lot of questions...just really hook these wires up and see what happens. This is why I came here.

I checked and C1 is turned on. On the T-Harness, I did wire up A1 to the pink wire. I also wired it up from A2/A3 to the lock and unlock wires on the car. I also checked the A2 and A3 outputs and saw there was no pulse, whereas there was one with the car.

If I get enough time today, I might go out and change the unlock pulse to something like 2.5 seconds and check again. I think the default is .25seconds and my DMM may not have picked it up.

And I agree with you on the firmware. I would hope support wouldn't tell me to hook it up if it was disabled in the firmware.

Oh, and the other weird thing. The idatalink instructions show you connecting the unlock/lock to a relay and then to pin 11 on the BCU side. The Fortin instructions say wire it directly to pin 11 and shows a "~" instead of (-). This makes me wonder if Fortin is transmitting data instead of a (-) output, like the idatalink does, if that makes sense. Like Fortin thinks is a data connection but it's really an analog connection on pin 11 on the BCU.

Thank you very much for your help and information.

Well, I went out there and took a look and the (-) unlock door on the evo is definitely not doing anything. So, in conclusion, I have a feeling that it's either disabled in the firmware or something is broke.

My guess is disabled in the firmware because on my Subaru Install Sheet from Fortin, it just shows is grayed out and nothing about an unlock or lock wire. I think my only hope now is for somebody with a 2016 (or maybe 2017) Impreza having the same door lock issues as I am and complaining about it.

Thank you again for all of your help.

Hi! I posted here a couple of times within the past week or two and so far people have been extremely helpful. I'm still trying to get my Fortin Evo-One fully working with my Impreza (standard key) install.

What's going on now is that I was able to get the lock and unlock to work while the vehicle is remote started through the use of the analog lock and unlock wires. I tied into the (-) wireset by the kick panel and connected them up to the evo. Now that it's working though, whenever I unlock with the aftermarket keyfob and open the door, the horn starts honking. This is just a guess, but I'm guessing the evo isn't disabling the factory alarm and the factory alarm is going off whenever I open the door while the car is remote started.

With all of this, I'm wondering if this vehicle just can't be locked and unlocked while remote started. Or, the bigger thing, is I wonder if I didn't properly write it up to something. I'm not sure what the something is though....but I soldered and double checked all my connections when I was making them.

Thanks in advanced again for any help.

OK, I think I made some major progress!!!! What I ended up doing, if anybody else is interested, is wired up the (-) lock and unlock wires into the car at the kick panel. This was working ok, but I also ended up enabling 38.4 in the firmware and that is finally working good.

I've had tons of issues that I've resolved one way or another with this thing. I think it's finally working good, except for the parking light output, which I have a feeling the relay in the evo may be stuck. If anybody has questions about it getting it to work on an Impreza, feel free to contact me!!!

I have a 2016 Subaru Impreza standard key ignition. I used the T-Harness to wire everything up but the install guide shows to connect the Yellow (+)Ignition/Bypass Ignition that is pin A1 to the pink wire on the T-Harness. It looks like it should have a wire sticking out but mine didn't so I just tapped the pink wire.

On the not the t-harness install, it basically goes A1/Ignition(+) to tap the Pink Ignition (+) on the ignition relay harness and then taps the (+)Ignition1 on the car.

I was wondering if anybody knew what the power requirement should be for the A1 Ignition, which other generic installation instructions calls this pin the "Bypass Ignition". I'm pretty sure mine is +12v constant and something makes me think that it should only be +12v when the key is in the ignition and turned to run or crank.

Thanks!

I have never used a THAR SUB-1 harness. I'm not even sure that it is supposed to have a Pink wire
coming out of the E Plug end. Does it have a Black Chassis Ground wire as shown in the diagram?
Not positive of the actual wire colors inside of the SUB-1 harness, but I would ensure that the thin
Pink wire from A1 gets connected to the thick wire inside of the harness that goes to Pin E5. E5
being the IGN1 In/Out wire position in that plug. Of course I would also verify that at the other end
of the SUB-1 harness, the wire in Pin 5 goes to the cars Green wire at Pin 1 at the main ignition switch
connector. Also a DMM check to verify that that wire acts like an Igniton wire and not constant +12V.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the information. I ended up testing it last night and it's wired up as the diagram says...well, I didn't pull the ignition plug side of the harness out, but just tested at the EVO-One. So, I think that my wires are correct to this point.

This is a huge mystery to me because the company says I have miswired something, but so far, I haven't been able to find anything miswired.

I'm going to start back to the drawing board on my install and start testing the connections for shorts and proper wiring. For testing the output, I've learned to use a DMM and touch the positive to the battery and test the negative output to see if it reads 12 volts. I also wanted to verify two other things; testing for shorts and AC.

For shorts, do you set the DMM to Ohms, connect one lead to the negative output and the other touch to ground? Can you do this on the 12v input wire too, but instead of touching ground, you would touch the 12v power source (battery)? Should you disconnect the battery before doing this?

For testing AC connections, such as the immobilizer (IMO), Door Lock DATA wires, and can high/low, do you just connect a probe to each side and check voltage? Does the car have to be running? Can you check continuity to look for shorts on the AC data wires this way too?

If needed, this is specifically for a 2016 Subaru Impreza.

Thanks in advanced.