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PLJX - Connect after programming

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=143806
Printed Date: April 30, 2024 at 3:51 AM


Topic: PLJX - Connect after programming

Posted By: temper
Subject: PLJX - Connect after programming
Date Posted: November 23, 2017 at 12:44 AM

Ok, so i'd installed this starter before I took it out. Now I want to install on different vehicle of same make.
I forgot how I install one wire.

Bulldog deluxe 500 with PLJX.

I'm not sure which ONE of the wire on the Deluxe 500 to connect to.

From PLJX, Brown - Ground Out from Remote Start "Connect Brown wire ONLY after programming is complete"

I'm guessing it's H7/1 BLUE/Black (-) 200mA ignition 3 control Output, just because it's the only wire left that I'd used last time.
could someone tell me if that's correct or which wire it should be.





Replies:

Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 23, 2017 at 2:07 AM
Yes, the H7/1 Blue/Black Ground Out wire is used as the bypass module control wire. Other names for
this type R/S output wire are Ground When Running ( GWR ) and (-) Status Output.

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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: temper
Date Posted: November 23, 2017 at 9:53 AM
Awesome! Thank you. It was the ignition 3 that through me off. Why not 1 or 2.




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 23, 2017 at 2:57 PM
Yes, some R/S manufacturers call GWR the (-) 3rd Ignition output. Ideally the GWR signal should
actually begin its' output a second before the R/S turns on the (+) IGN output.

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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: temper
Date Posted: November 24, 2017 at 1:52 PM
I'm still having trouble. When remote start. I can hear thing clicking from the module as it try to start. No start/sound from the vehicle at all. Vehicle did not get locked.
Program several times just to be sure.
Smart vehicle manually and started remote. Car stay on when keys removed. Meaning it's programmed correctly I'd assumed. Replaced remote starter module still doesn't start.
Note* tach wire not installed. Per remote starter. It's not required. My previous installed wasn't used either and worked.
What next?




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 24, 2017 at 6:28 PM
Perhaps we should get into specifics.

What was the donor vehicle?

What is the recipient vehicle?

Was the PLJX programmed to the new vehicle successfully?

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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: temper
Date Posted: November 24, 2017 at 7:20 PM
Darn I thought I'd mentioned it. 2005 Chevy Colorado. It does not have starter wire.
Yes the pljx was successfully programed. Not sure how else to test if it is good other than start the remote when car is running and remove the key.
I am though blaming toward the poll more than the starter.




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 24, 2017 at 9:18 PM
Don't really use PLJX's but... The Colorado is a slightly different style Passlock2 system
and uses a different bypass module setup.

Is the PLJX jumper at the horizontal position on the two lower pins?

Did you connect the Deluxe 500 (+) Starter Output wire to the PLJX Violet wire?

Did you verify the Data wire connections on the cut wire are connected to the correct sides?


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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: temper
Date Posted: November 25, 2017 at 2:52 PM
kreg357 wrote:


Is the PLJX jumper at the horizontal position on the two lower pins?

YES
kreg357 wrote:


Did you connect the Deluxe 500 (+) Starter Output wire to the PLJX Violet wire?

YES
kreg357 wrote:


Did you verify the Data wire connections on the cut wire are connected to the correct sides?


YES, it's actually incorrect before my post.

Thinking of getting dball now.




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 25, 2017 at 8:24 PM
The DB-ALL2 or 3 will do a whole lot more for you on the Colorado, not just the Passlock2. Also remember that you will
need the XKLoader2 USB cable and authorized access to flash the module with the GM5 firmware. If everything else is
working OK, look at getting a Fortin Passlock SL2 V2 or an iDatalink ADS TBSL PL. These modules only do the bypass
function, are less expensive and come pre-loaded. You will have to go with W2W connections between the R/S and the
bypass module but that is just a few wires.

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Soldering is fun!





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