after my screw up, hornet 563t, 98 ram

Ok so moron here hooks a battery up backwards in his 98 Dodge ram a couple months ago. I actually had time to turn the key over and the starter turn over a few times (no doubt turning in reverse probably) before I realized what was going on especially when the cab started filling up with smoke from under the dash. So I get out and jerk the battery cables off and realize what I had done. So now after licking my wounds and replacing all the burned up wires I could find from the electrical control center under the hood back through the firewall and all up behind the dash (mostly ground wires and literally a nightmare!!!) everything is working as it should with the exception of the remote start. The system is a hornet 563t remote start/ security system with the xcrs satellite relay connected with it. (I've learned a majority of these systems are based with directed electronics anyway from what I've found after installing a viper a while back). So everything functions fine on the alarm side of the unit but when I trigger the remote start the lights blink, I hear the fuel pump cycle (as everything should) then nothing.... About 5 or 10 seconds later this process will repeat. I understand that the repeat process is normal when the vehicle fails to crank. So all indications point to I never get a signal to the starter output coming out if the unit. I do remember, along with trying to fix all the other issues it caused, I was was probing with a signal light trying to see if signal was coming out of it after triggering the remote start. I probed one of the heavier wires I forget whether pink or purple (thus grounding that wire) and it started and functioned like it should including dying when I applied the brake. So all that being said what is everyone's thoughts on where to start trouble shooting this? Thanks in advance... Dale

https://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/ig/hornet/N563T_09-05.pdf

Ok I have the manual but thank you... I have checked and all my 12v+ wires are getting power through the fuses and again everything functions as it should but during the cycle 12v never comes to the purple start wire.

dacker wrote:

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Ok I have the manual but thank you... I have checked and all my 12v+ wires are getting power through the fuses and again everything functions as it should but during the cycle 12v never comes to the purple start wire.

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You should have ignition input @ the green wire as well. If thats ok as well as the remaining inputs & outputs on the 8 pin satelite connector there is a possibility the controller is dead.

Do you have a starter kill relay?

I have the xcrs relay and there are additional 2 other relays wired into it... I'm assuming those are ignition bypass. I will post some pics when I get home in little while

The blk/wht (neutral) wire must be grounded.
The brown wire (brake) can not have 12V on it.
The gray wire (hood) can not be grounded.

You could also use the Shutdown Diagnostics to determine which input is keeping it from cranking.

I'm thinking the shutdown diagnostic is gone be the way to go but never the less here are the pics as promised. Sorry for the delay... It snowed in Alabama and you people just don't know the struggle :rolls eyes: lol

Ok so did the shut down diagnostic and it blinked 6 times which indicates (-) h3/4 gray shutdown out h3/3 brown shutdown which is the hood pin or the brake. The brake function worked as it was supposed to not getting 12v until I applied the brake and then shutting down. The hood pin was never hooked up so just to test it I grounded it and the cycle would never even begin so that seemed to be working so we're still at square 1. I can during the cycle ground the Violet wire on the external relay and the truck will crank and the remote start otherwise function like it should so with all the new info what are y'alls thoughts?

Sounds like the low (-) NEG output from the unit isn't working, did you test that thin purple for a NEG output on the start cycle?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

No sir but I will tomorrow and post the results

Ok so I checked the purple and the blue wires.... The blue one was at 0 with nothing initialized after initializing it went to .05, the purple wire was at 11.7 with nothing initialized and went down to 10.5 after initializing the remote start.

The remote start ribbon harness has ground controlled (-) inputs to activate the XCR relays - Check for ground inputs @ the purple wire first. XCR should have 12v input @ the green wire.______
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This ribbon harness connects to the relay satellite.
BLUE (-) 200 mA STATUS OUTPUT
ORANGE/BLACK (-) ANTIGRIND/GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT
PURPLE (-) 200 mA STARTER RELAY TURN-ON
ORANGE (-) 200 mA ACCESSORY RELAY TURN-ON
PINK (-) 200 mA IGNITION RELAY TURN-ON
YELLOW (+) IGNITION INPUT TO ALARM
PINK/WHITE 200 mA (-) PROGRAMMABLE IGN2/ACC2 RELAY 1 TURN ON

Ok I think that's kind of where we're at... The purple wire never turns to ground it only drops from 11.7 to 10.5

Didn't we know that 2 pages ago?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

No I was saying that because the post just right before your reply was talking about the purple and blue wires on the harness you're referring to I think. I wasn't being a smart ass just wanted you to know that's kind of the area I was working in. So I'm guessing the thing to figure out is why the purple wire never gets a ground signal.

It doesn't get, it gives out a low current ground to activate the starter relay in the relay box as as shown in one of your photos.
You should expect a ground on that and a plus 12V+ on the thick purple.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok well that thin purple wire has 11.7 on it and when activated it drops to 10.5 so what does that point to

OK so here is what I get on each of those wires on that ribbon.
             inactive        Active
BLUE (-) 200 mA STATUS OUTPUT 0              .6
ORANGE/BLACK (-) ANTIGRIND/GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT          0              .8
PURPLE (-) 200 mA STARTER RELAY TURN-ON       12             10.5
ORANGE (-) 200 mA ACCESSORY RELAY TURN-ON     12             .4
PINK (-) 200 mA IGNITION RELAY TURN-ON        12             .4
YELLOW (+) IGNITION INPUT TO ALARM            00
PINK/WHITE 200 mA (-) PROGRAMMABLE IGN2/ACC2 RELAY 1 TURN ON 12              8.3            

That post didnt show up like it was typed in the box but the first number is what it is inactive and the second number is after activation

I would disconnect the purple wire from the starter side and see if you get the same reading on that wire during remote start. Next I would disconnect the orange / black and test purple output again. Finally I am not sure if the Yellow should have 12V + during remote start - you could jumper 12v on the wire and test remote start again. Basically 12v to 10.5v on the purple wire is insufficient grounding.

Ok..I will check those tomorrow afternoon

When you say starter side do mean past the external xcrs satellite relay? Between it and the starter itself?

Between module & XCRS. I would also try the same test between the XCRS & engine starter.

Ok so now that the holidays are over I'm finally back at it. Well I pulled apart the satellite relay and was looking and figured out if I put a jumper between the 2 points drawn with a sharpie in the picture everything worked. Well I order a new relay wire it in and it's still doing the same thing. So where do we go from here?

You chuck it because as I said earlier the purple low current relay INPUT isn't working.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Gotcha..... So it's the control box itself then?

Yes could be a blown component on that board, do NOT connect as in the photo where you marked it.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.