Avital 4105L and 2006 Ford Fusion

I need to tap into the expertise of this forum in a bad way. My son got an Avital 4105L for Christmas. We will be installing it in his 2006 Fusion. I've looked at the wiring diagram and done some Google research but am not ready to dive right in. He has a third key and I was thinking a 556U bypass would be cost effective and do the job. I really would be profoundly grateful if I could get enough help/advice on this post to help me get the job done without taking his car out of service for more than a day. I have never installed a remote start so I'm a newbie. I did some basic electronics in the Air Force many years ago, have a certain amount of common sense, perseverance, but lack the knowledge to give me the confidence to dive in without leaning on someone more experienced. Please spare no detail...

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D Hall

OK, here is the info...

First, you want to check to see if the Fusion has the Factory Alarm system. There will be an additional
wire connection to make if it does.

Second, you should consider a bypass module in place of the 556U with a working key inside. A 556U goes
for about $12. A Directed 1100F bypass module can be found on EBay for $20. It's a few more wires to
run and some programming steps but it provides better security and more reliable cold weather remote
starts. There are other bypass modules out there but the 1100F comes pre-loaded with firmware and
very easy to program.

Please remember that the 4105V is designed for vehicles with automatic transmissions and should never
be installed in a vehicle with a manual transmission.

For the actual installation, you should have a computer safe, 12V LED tester. A Digital Multi Meter will
also work but requires some knowledge to setup and operate. You should locate and verify all the vehicle
wires before making any connections.

Next comes bench prep. This is where you pre-configure the 4105 and bypass module. All of the un-used
wires can be cut short and bundled together, etc. This will make vehicle installation easier and much
neater.

Here are the necessary connections :

Avital 4105 with Directed 1100F bypass to 2006 Ford Fusion

Main 9 Pin
1 LIGHT GREEN/BLACK FACTORY ALARM DISARM.............PURPLE/BROWN (-)   IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL or SJB, Connector C, Pin 5 *
2 GREEN/WHITE FACTORY REARM..............................................not used
3 YELLOW (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM).................................not used
4 WHITE/BLUE (-) ACTIVATION INPUT..........................................not used
5 ORANGE (-) GROUND WHEN LOCKED......................................not used
6 BROWN (-) HORN OUTPUT.............................................................BLUE/WHITE (-) @ HORN SWITCH or SJB, Connector B, Pin 6,
7 RED/WHITE (-) TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT..............................BROWN (-) @ TRUNK RELEASE SWITCH or SJB, Connector D, Pin 27
8 BLACK GROUND...............................................................................Chassis Ground
9 WHITE (+/-) LIGHT FLASH.....set jumper to (+)...........................GRAY/YELLOW (+) IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL or SJB, Connector E, Pin 30,
* If equipped with Factory Alarm system.

R/S 5 Pin
1 BLACK/WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT........Chassis Ground through kit supplied switch
2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE..........................NOT GRAY OR BLUE/WHITE AT ANY INJECTOR OR COIL
3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE....................PURPLE/WHITE (+) @ SWITCH above BRAKE PEDAL or SJB, Connector A, Pin 19
4 GRAY (-) HOOD PINSWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE.....................to kit supplied hood pin
5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOG..............to DEI 1100F Blue/White wire

4-pin satellite harness diagram
1 BLUE STATUS OUTPUT....................................not used
2 ORANGE (-) ACCESSORY OUTPUT..............not used
3 PURPLE (-) STARTER OUTPUT......................not used
4 PINK (-) IGNITION OUTPUT............................not used

Heavy gauge 6 Pin
1 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT............................BROWN/RED (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS **
2 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION2........................................................not used
3 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12 INPUT...............................BROWN/RED (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS **
4 ORANGE (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO ACC CIRCUIT..............PURPLE/GREEN (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
5 PURPLE (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO STARTER CIRCUIT......BLUE/WHITE (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
6 PINK (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO IGNITION CIRCUIT............WHITE/ORANGE (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
** You could run these wires directly to the battery or a better "high current" wire.

Door lock harness, 3-pin connector
1 BLUE (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT.................PURPLE/GRAY (TYPE B) IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL or SJB, Connector C, Pin 10
2 EMPTY NOT USED
3 GREEN (-) LOCK OUTPUT....................GRAY/YELLOW (TYPE B) IN DRIVER KICK PANEL or SJB, Connector C, Pin 4

DEI 1100F bypass module
Red +12V.......................to 4105 thick Red
Black Ground................to 4105 Black wire @ Pin 8 of 9
Blue/White GWR.........to 4105 Blue/White @ Pin 4 of 4
Pink IGN.......................to 4105 thick Pink
Green/Red   RX............to Fusion transponder plug Pin 4 Yellow/Orange
Gray/Red TX...............to Fusion transponder plug Pin 3 Purple/Gray

Follow the 1100F install guide to set to Standard Mode ( 2 blinks ). You will need two working, non-clone keys to program the
bypass module to the car.

On the 4105, besides setting the Parking Lights to (+) output, you should make these programming changes :
Menu 1
Feature 1 to Option 2 for Horn beep confirmation.
Menu 2
Feature 1 to Option 4 Tach for more reliable remote start operation.

You will have to perform the Tach Learn process detailed in the 4105 guide.

That's about it.

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Soldering is fun!

Thank you! I have a couple of questions.

1. Do I connect 2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE..........................NOT GRAY OR BLUE/WHITE AT ANY INJECTOR OR COIL if using the tach learn feature? If so, does this wire run through the firewall to access an injector or coil line?

2. Not sure about locating the Fusion transponder plug but Google should help me with that.

Thanks again Kreg

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D Hall

Yes, if you are running in Tach Mode, you want to connect the 4105 Tach wire to a good Tach source. You will have to pass these wires through the firewall to get at the engine and the F.I.'s or Spark Plug Coil. You will have to run the Hood Pin wire through the same firewall hole. If you decide to obtain R/S +12V power directly from the battery, that will be the third wire heading through the firewall.

As for the vehicles transponder plug, it is a part of the ignition switch. Here is an install guide for another brand / model of bypass module that has some detailed graphics on that area of the car :     https://cdn.fortin.ca/download/22301/evo-one_ig_reg_bi_for_b_22301.pdf          It is a 4 Pin connector.


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Soldering is fun!

KREG. My son and I got started on this project today. We located all of the wires and hope to finish up tomorrow if school is cancelled here (snow). I have two questions.

from above:
R/S 5 Pin
1. BLACK/WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT........Chassis Ground through kit supplied switch (I do not see a supplied switch in the Avital kit. Am I missing or overlooking something? Can I just attach this wire to chassis ground since the car is an automatic or do I need to attach it to something else (such as emergency brake switch as stated in my instructions?

2. We can't locate the wire on the 4105 to connect the DEI 1100F Blue/White GWR wire to. The instructions above say to connect it to the 4105 Blue/White @ pin 4 of 4. There is no corresponding pin. There is a -200 mA status output on the Satellite harness which is blue. The instructions above also says to connect the DEI1100 Blue/White wire to the RS 5 pin Blue/White wire. Am I making a 3 wire connection and, if so, where is the "Blue/White pin 4 of 4 you're referring to? Please advise.
Dennis

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D Hall

1. If there is no switch included in the kit, you can connect the Black/White Neutral Safety wire directly to chassis ground ( if it's an Auto Trans vehicle ).

2. Sorry for the confusion with the GWR wire. The 1100F control input is called GWR. It goes to the 4105 output called (-) Status Output. If you are not using the Blue/White wire for a Defroster control, you can use it as Status Output. I suggested it that way because you are not using any other wires on the 4 Pin plug with the Blue Status Output and could omit that harness all together if you use the Blue/White wire as Status Output. Either one is OK, you don't need to use both.

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Soldering is fun!

Thank you for the info. All good except now I’m wondering if I should hook up the defrost wire. Any words of wisdom on how to accomplish that too?

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D Hall

It might be possible to add the rear defog to the install, however I have no info on the actual vehicle wire needed. Perhaps another forum member can chime in with this info. Either way, you could connect the 4015L's 4 Pin harness and use the Blue (-) Status for the 1100F and reserve the Blue/White wire for use with the Defog.

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Soldering is fun!

Im not sure if its the same but on the 09 its white/orange coming off the back of the EATC head. You would have to test to see if its a pulse or steady trigger.

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Agreed, white/orange pin 10 at the climate controls, or pin 16 at the smart junction box:

https://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=123356

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

We have everything working but can't get the R/S to enter program mode. That would seem to indicate something not hooked up or hooked wrong. Any suggestions?

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D Hall

With the 4105, the only things you need to enter Programming Mode to change system features are :
1. The 4105 thick Pink Ignition 1 wire must be connected to the vehicles WHITE/ORANGE (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
2. The Valet button must be plugged it to the 2 Pin Blue port on the side of the 4105.
3. The antenna must be properly connected, both ends.
4. The remotes paired to the 4105. They should come paired from the factory.
Having the 4105 Horn output connected to the car will be an aid in programming but not required as you
can watch the 4105's LED.

Even though you haven't set / changed all the necessary options, once the 4105 is all connected and the
fuses are inserted, you should be able to press the lock and unlock buttons and at leat hear relays clicking
inside the 4105, even if you didn't connect the Parking lights or door lock wires correctly.

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Soldering is fun!

OK. We managed to get it to program mode. But when I do menu two, feature one, option four for the tachometer, the car will start and run for three or four seconds and then stop and will not try to start again until we press the remote start button. When we put it back to virtual tack, it performs as it is a upposed to. Thoughts?

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D Hall

So it starts and runs OK in Virtual Tach? Double check your Tach connection :
VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE to NOT GRAY OR BLUE/WHITE AT ANY INJECTOR OR COIL
It should be well soldered and insulated. I run this wire inside 1/4" split loom tube to
protect it after it exits the firewall grommet. You must also successfully perform the Tach
Learn process shown on the one page install guide.

You can test the Tach wire at the F.I. or coil with a Digital Multi Meter set to 20V AC.
It should show around 1V and rise slightly with RPM's.

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Soldering is fun!

Thank you for all your help. Apparently, we did not properly do the tackle learn process the first time. We did it again and everything about the remote start is working as advertised. Mucho grasias

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D Hall