2000 accord ex avital 4105l pkall

If someone can please help I really just want to enjoy my weekend but I want this auto start to work. Minnesotas negative weather is killing me.
So I purchased this kit installed in myself and this is what I got. Avital 4105l with a pkall bypass.
The remote lock works. It cranks but doesn't turn on. Also when I lock and unlock I get no parkjng light that flashes not sure if it's suppose to.
From the 4105 I wire
Heavy gauge relay
Two red to white ignition switch
Purple into black white "IS"
Pink into black yellow "IS"
Orange into yellow "IS
White black into "IS.

Primary harness
Light green to blue wire inside drivers door window switch
Greenwhite didn't use
Yellow didn't use
White blue didn't use
Orange didn't use
Brown to light green blue harness steering column
Red white didn't use
Black to ground
White to red black driver side fuse box

Remote start harness 5 pin
Black white parking brake to ground
Violet white to blue single in engine bay on strut tower
Brown to white black brake
Gray to hood pin
Blue white didn't use

Satellite 4 pin
Didn't use any

Door lock
Blue to blue orange
Green to orange

D2D harness
Red side of the pkall harness plug in

On Pkall 6 pin connector
Purple white splice with orange brown from the 4 pin connector into red wire that's been cut into two wired into ignition side
Yellow black into blue synchro
Blue white didn't use (this the one in confuse on)
Green didn't use
Pink into yellow black ignition
Black didn't use

4 pin connector
Light green into red firewall side data
Orange brown splice with purple white
Orange green didn't use
Brown didn't use

I think I programmed it correct too for the pkall
Please help sorry it's a mess

Here are some updates / corrections :


This looks OK with one up date
Heavy gauge relay
Two red to white ignition switch
Purple into black white "IS"
Pink into black yellow "IS"
Orange into yellow "IS
Pink/White to White black at "IS   plus programmed Menu 2, Feature 6 to Option 2 fo ACC output

This looks OK with one suggestion :
Primary harness
Light green to blue wire inside drivers door window switch
Greenwhite didn't use
Yellow didn't use
White blue didn't use
Orange didn't use
Brown to light green blue harness steering column
Red white didn't use
Black to ground
White to red black driver side fuse box     plus set 4105 Parking Light Jumper to (+)

This is OK for auto trans vehicle.
Remote start harness 5 pin
Black white parking brake to ground
Violet white to blue single in engine bay on strut tower
Brown to white black brake
Gray to hood pin
Blue/White    see PKALL info below

This wiring looks off, possible typo because you said the locks work?
Door lock
Blue to blue orange    should be Black/Blue
Green to orange    OK

It appears that you have the EX model and you want to run in Tach Mode
due to the Tach wire connection. In Tach Mode you should program the
Viper to Menu 2, Feature 1, Option 4. Additionally, you should perform
the Tach Learn Process.

Your main problem is with the PKALL. All of the wiring looks OK but with the omission
of the Blue/White GWR wire it won't turn on the bypass the transponder and you should
be getting a flashing Green Key symbol on the instrument cluster during the remote start attempt.

D2D harness
Red side of the pkall harness plug in
On Pkall 6 pin connector
Purple white splice with orange brown from the 4 pin connector into red wire that's been cut into two wired into ignition side
Yellow black into blue synchro
Blue/White to Viper 4105 Blue/White wire in Remote Start 5 Pin Harness *
Green didn't use
Pink into yellow black ignition
Black didn't use

4 pin connector
Light green into red firewall side data
Orange brown splice with purple white
Orange green didn't use
Brown didn't use

* The Viper Blue/White can be used for the Defroster turn on but default programming has it
set for (-) Status Output ( aka GWR ) and can be used to turn on the bypass module.



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Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the quick response.
So I should set the 4105 parking light jumper to (+). How do I do that sorry about the confusion.

There should have been a two pin jumper plug taped to the 4105 unit with red or orange tape. If you look real closely
at the bottom side of the 4105, there are the 3 pin position instructions press molded into the plastic. Basically the
two pins on the outside are for (-) and the two pins on the inside are for (+). The middle pin is the 3 pins is always
used. The jumper pins are on the side of the module.

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Soldering is fun!

Alright so I have pink white wire set to menu feature 6 option 2
Tach
Feature 1 menu 2 to option 4

My blue white wire from the pkall wired into blue white 5 pin harness on the avital

When I auto start it still crank doesn't turn on still get a green key flashing

The avital led also come on when I auto start the pkall red led come on

I'm lost now anyone?

Got the jumper figures out thanks for that
Now when I unlock the avital led dies when I lock it flashes

So going trough my wiring for door locks
I did blue to blue orange and green to orange black

Unplug the PKALL D2D harness. Place a working ignition key into the ignition switch but do
not turn it. Try a remote start. If it starts and runs, everything is good except the bypass module.

Double check all your bypass module connections. They should be properly soldered and insulated.
Try reprogramming the bypass module.

For the door locks, here is some additional info. It would appear testing will be mandatory.

Bulldog Security
POWER LOCK   BLACK/BLUE (TYPE B)     IN PASSENGER SIDE FUSEBOX GREEN 20 PIN PLUG
POWER UNLOCK   ORANGE (TYPE B)    IN PASSENGER SIDE FUSEBOX GREEN 20 PIN PLUG

Omega
EX Model Access Door Locks At Passengers Side Multiplex 20 Pin GREEN Connnector
Unlock        BLUE/ORANGE (-)           Pin 4
Lock           BLACK/ORANGE(-)        Pin 16

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Soldering is fun!

So with key in the ignition and d2d unplugged the the cranks but doesn't start

Is the Green Key symbol still flashing on the instrument cluster during the R/S attempt?


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Soldering is fun!

Okay now with d2d unplugged key in ignition
Hit the remote the car starts and dies
Than the green key flashes

I'm going trough this want to make sure it's right
I've cut the red wire on the igition into two
The green wire on the pkall four pin should be wire into red which leads back torwards the firewall
The purple white and orange brown into the red leading into ignition correct

Don't think so.

The PKALL Light Green wire should be connected to the cut Red Data wire towards the ignition
switch connector.

The PKALL Orange/Brown and the Purple/White wires are connected to the cut Red Data wire
on the side away from the ignition switch connector and going down the steering column.

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Soldering is fun!

So I switched those wires around reprogrammed it and the car starts but dies couple sec after
The next two trys it just cranks.
Hopefully this is getting somewhere

Does the Green Key indicator still flash during R/S cranking?
Did you do a successful Tach Learn?
Have you tried a "Pit-Stop" yet?
   Start the car with the key. Foot off brake. Press the Viper remote start button, wait 5 seconds and remove the key.
   Does the engine stay running?


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Soldering is fun!

So I turned off tach
With 3 honks menu 2 feature 1 option 3
And the car turned on with the the remote

OK, that's a good step forward. So far you got the Parking Lights to work, the PKALL properly
connected and programmed to allow the bypass module to function and the 4105 to remote start the
engine. Not sure if you got the 4105 to work the door locks 100% correctly.

My concern with running the remote start function with Menu 2, Feature 1, Option 3, Engine Checking = OFF,
is that you live in an area with wide seasonal temperature changes. A Fixed crank time may not be the best
in that environment with an 18 year old Honda. I live in New York, which does not get as cold as Minnesota,
and I have found that Fixed Crank, Voltage and Virtual Tach do not provide the reliable engine start-ups that
my customers expect. Strange that you could not get Tach Mode to work using the Honda 2 Pin test connector
Tach signal. I just did a 1999 CR-V using that same Blue wire and it worked great.

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Soldering is fun!