Viper 4806v install 04 Cavalier

2004 Cavalier, automatic tranny. I would greatly appreciate anybody's help here. I just removed a Ready Remote starter that I successfully installed to replace it with a Viper 4806v. I was extremely dissatisfied with the RR starter because it literally did not work beyond 10 feet lol. Started up great, but I basically needed to stand next to the car.

Anyway, I have the starter hooked up but I have three problems. Let me first say that if you're familiar with my GM vehicle, you'll know that I somehow had to bypass the Passlock II ignition system for the RR remote starter to actually work. I located the key cylinder wires and tested and identified the unique Passlock resistance ohms and purchased a 60 cent resistor at that reading, and correctly hooked it up to trick the onboard computer into thinking a key is in the cylinder during remote starting. Great, one big hurdle conquered.

Here are my three problems:

1. My biggest problem. When I hit the remote start button the remote starter doesn't make that friendly confirmation chirp with the green light that I've seen in YouTube videos. Instead nothing happens except that I hear the starter brain do I believe 16 clicks, tick tock tick tock etc.... I have the remote start harness hooked up correctly, I believe to the following wires in my vehicle's ignition harness at the steering column. Red/Black, Red, and Red/White wires hooked up to the constant 12V red wire in said vehicle harness, Pink/Black flex relay input not hooked up, Pink/White ignition 2 hooked up to vehicle's brown Accessory 2 wire (I programmed Viper brain in Menu options to set this wire as an Accessory 2 wire, Menu 3, Item 8, option 2), Violet starter output wire hooked up to my vehicle's yellow Starter wire, Orange Acesssory wire hooked up to my vehicle's Orange Accessory wire, Pink wire hooked up to vehicle's Pink ignition wire. All that being said, is there something I am doing wrong? I don't have tach wire hooked up, and for now no hood pin switch hooked up (I will hook that up after I confirm the unit's successful operation). There is no toggle switch for this unit/model. Is/are there required wires that need connections in the 24-pin Aux/Shutdown harness that came with the Viper unit?

#2. I have the door lock and unlock wires hooked up to my vehicle's Power Lock and Power Unlock wires in BCM purple plug, wires A3 (white, unlock), and A4 (light blue, lock). When I press the lock and unlock buttons the unit receives the signal and beeps the horn once for lock and twice for unlock but the physical locks don't do anything (I hooked up the Viper's horn output to my vehicle's horn trigger which signals my horn (BCM brown plug, black wire pin B7). I noticed in the 2004 Cavalier wiring diagram I obtained at Ready Remote's web site that the lock and unlock wires are + polarity but the Viper manual shows these are 500mA (-) polarity. Is the polarity situation there the problem? If so what do I need to do?

#3. The trunk release motor gets triggered/pops when I hold the aux button down but the trunk doesn't release. It's like the trunk release motor isn't getting enough power from the Viper unit. Could that be it?


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Stanton and Judge = multiple World Series titles

Update... the biggie, problem #1 is fixed. I thought that there must be some safety wire that I need to ground or something. That's in fact what it was. The Black/White "Parking/E-Brake Input" wire required grounding. Once I did that and then hit remote start button I get that beautiful remote chirp and beautiful green led lit up and the car starts like a champ. Now I just gotta figure out the door lock/unlock and the trunk unlock issues.

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Stanton and Judge = multiple World Series titles

According to Bulldog, models without keyless entry use a positive pulse and models with keyless use a negative pulse: https://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/printlist.aspx?MakeID=13&ModelID=20306

Trunk release is listed as positive pulse, too.

It's always best to test with a meter to verify wiring before making your connections. If you do need to change the polarity, use this diagram:

https://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagram8.html



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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

Awesome, thanks for the links. The power lock and unlock wires on the car are negative. The pulses coming from the remote start are positive, so I will refer to the second link you sent me.

What about the fact that the factory remote unlocks the driver's door only first, then the rest of the doors unlock with an immediate second push of the lock button? I see a "Door Trigger" wire in the Cavalier schematic. I read somewhere that that wire is in fact for said purpose (to allow only driver's door to unlock before the rest of the doors). Any idea how I would include that wire in order to mimic that behavior?

Also, the trunk release pops with a long push of the aux button and the polarities of the trunk-release wire from the Viper and the vehicle are the same, but it seems like the pop is not strong enough because the trunk does not physically disengage from the lock mechanism. Another relay needed there?

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Stanton and Judge = multiple World Series titles

Okay, I had it backwards with the locks, then. This should work: https://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagram9.html

You could, in theory wire the unlock output with relays to the driver's door. However, priority locking may not be practical since the unlock wire is necessary for factory disarm.

You could try something like this for trunk release: https://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagram25.html

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.