Viper 5101, No Crank, 03 Tahoe

I installed a 5101 and xk01 on a 03 Tahoe a while back and everything was working fine. Now it's here with a no cranking problem. Everything else works. Dash lights up as normal. It gets to the first phase of remote starting but doesn't continue to the cranking phase. Thoughts?

From the 5101 Manual--

IF The remote start will activate, but the starter never engages:

1.)Check for voltage on the purple starter wire two seconds after the remote start becomes active. If there is voltage present, skip to Step 4. If there is not voltage present, advance to Step 2.
2.)Check the 30A fuses.
3.)If the gray/black wait-to-start wire is detecting ground upon activation, the starter will not crank.
4.)Make sure the purple starter wire is connected on the starter side of the optional starter kill/anti-grind relay.
5.)Does the vehicle have an immobilizer? Some immobilizer systems will not allow the vehicle to crank if active.
6.)Check connections. The heavy gauge remote start input wires on the heavy gauge 10-pin connector should have a solid connection. “T-taps” or “scotch locks” are not recommended for any high current heavy gauge wiring.

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Lectric Guy

Everything checks out except for power to the starter(no starter kill) after 2 sec. All connections soldered.

Forgot to mention I can hit the remote start while the truck is running and it will take over.

Double check the following:

-H3-pin8 heavy gage RED lead powers accessory & Start relays. Check the lead is making good connection & fuse is good & seated properly.
-Check that there is no possible short for the grey/black wait to start wire.
-Check that the unit is properly programmed (i.e., you have not programmed the unit for Diesel operation by mistake).

How are you sensing engine crank? Tach, or other means? You may want to double check your tach connection and reprogram tach.

Does the ignition/accessory stay on for the programmed run time when you attempt the remote start?




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Lectric Guy

Checked the remote start harness, replaced fuses just to rule them out and wait to start multiple times.

Reset then re programmed

Used tach to a fuel injector

I did not see how long the ignition/accy stay on. I just noticed the viper never tries to crank nor does accessory drop out.

I opened the viper to check for burnt/bad solder points/connections. Everything looks good.

Checked the remote start harness, replaced fuses just to rule them out and wait to start multiple times.--OK

Reset then reprogrammed--OK

Used tach to a fuel injector--Did you re-program Tach?

I did not see how long the ignition/accy stay on. I just noticed the viper never tries to crank nor does accessory drop out.--Seems like Wait to Start is active. May want to try turning Bank3 selection10 to Option 2 (off) and see if the accessory is still not dropping. At least this will give you an idea what may be happening. Originally I was curious if there were multiple attempts made to start.

You should also look at the auxiliary 5 pin harness pin 3 (Start(-)) and see if that wire activates. This is a negative signal and should go active when the heavy gage start is supposed to go active. If this aux start activates, you could use a relay to get the system working again.

I opened the viper to check for burnt/bad solder points/connections. Everything looks good.--If all else above fails, it may be time to swap out the brain...

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Lectric Guy

I did reprogrammed tach. It does seem like wait to start is active.

There is only one attempt to start and it seems to think the car is running. During that time ign & accy stay powered.

I thought about trying a relay but ran out of time. Just weird how it's been working all this time with no issues. I may just have to find a new brain

I don't know if this will work or not (and it's kind of a "Mickey Mouse" way of addressing it), but if it seems like the WTS is active, you could always program for the smallest delay instead (15 seconds). According to the manual, if a timed delay is programmed, the WTS wire does not function.

It couldn't hurt to try.

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

how about you put a test light on the purple wire to see if the starter is providing 12V+. (if it is, might be the passlock)

Already tested with dmm, no output. I'm pretty sure it's the brain at this point.

try testing the blue wire in the 5-pin harness to see if you get a negative pulse. if you do, you can use a relay if you don't want to swap the brain.

That's the plan when I get the truck back this weekend