2010 F150, Viper 5806v with ADS-ALCA bypass

Hi everyone. Newbie here with (hopefully) a pretty black and white question regarding an upcoming alarm install. I've done a lot of reading, but want to confirm a few things.

Vehicle: 2010 F150 XLT w/ factory keyless entry and PATS security
Alarm/RS: Viper 5806V
Bypass: ADS-ALCA (PATS bypass w/ door lock bypass) - I chose this because I can flash it myself (unless there is a better route)
Window Module: 535T (will install this down the road)

Now, to get to my questions:

1) Will the ADS-ALCA work directly with the door locks in my F150? Are relays needed because of the door lock type (not 5 pin) with the bypass? On the idatalink website, it is not showing an compatibility with the vehicle.

2) I'm comfortable with the wiring and soldering of points, but want to make sure this is an install I can tackle with the right modules. I've done a remote start in the past (2003) but it's been a long time, and a lot has changed. Am I getting in over my head? I'm more afraid that there will be multiple relays, multiple resistors, and multiple diodes needed for this.

3) Would anyone recommend a different set up? I chose Viper because I have had great luck with them in the past, and I chose the iDatalink module because I can flash myself. Would it make more sense to purchase the DBall3, install, then have a local shop flash?

4) After hours and hours of research, I haven't found this install online as a "walkthrough". Are there any discussions related to this vehicle/alarm/rs combo?

Thanks in advance everyone. The amount of quality information on this site is amazing.

1) Will the ADS-ALCA work directly with the door locks in my F150? Are relays needed because of the door lock type (not 5 pin) with the bypass? On the idatalink website, it is not showing an compatibility with the vehicle.

No, the ADS AL-CA will not handle the F150's locks. The ADS AL-CA will only perform the PATS transponder bypass for that vehicle.

2) I'm comfortable with the wiring and soldering of points, but want to make sure this is an install I can tackle with the right modules. I've done a remote start in the past (2003) but it's been a long time, and a lot has changed. Am I getting in over my head? I'm more afraid that there will be multiple relays, multiple resistors, and multiple diodes needed for this.

This is a pretty straight-forward install. The alarm portion will be your main issue. Ford uses (-) N.C. door trigger logic.

3) Would anyone recommend a different set up? I chose Viper because I have had great luck with them in the past, and I chose the iDatalink module because I can flash myself. Would it make more sense to purchase the DBall3, install, then have a local shop flash?

The Viper is a solid unit but do you want / need the alarm portion, too? A Viper 4806V would do everything except the alarm functions with a lower price tag. The ADS AL-CA is slightly overkill being as it only does the PATS bypass function. You will need to flash it with the DBI-TB-FM2 firmware to allow D2D communications with your Viper R/S. Using a DB3 is a possibility but you definitly would need a friendly shop to flash it for you. With iDatalink Flash access you could do the KLON process if you had only one working key.

4) After hours and hours of research, I haven't found this install online as a "walkthrough". Are there any discussions related to this vehicle/alarm/rs combo

While it is not the exact same R/S and bypass module, this Pictorial ( https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=141945 ) will provide all of the needed wires, colors, locations to help with your install. No alarm wiring for the door triggers is shown in the Pictorial.

Here is the door trigger info :
Dome Light   GRAY/VIOLET (+)   SJB CONN A PIN #9
Driver's Front Door Pin   GREEN\VIOLET (-N.C.)   SJB GRAY 26 PIN CONN, PIN 14
Pass Front Door Pin   WHITE (-N.C.)   SJB GRAY 26 PIN CONN, PIN 2
Driver's Rear Door Pin   GREEN (-N.C.)   SJB GRAY 26 PIN CONN, PIN 3
Pass Rear Door Pin   YELLOW (-N.C.)   SJB GRAY 26 PIN CONN, PIN 15


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Soldering is fun!

Wow. Thanks for such a fast response. I'll leave the ADS-ALCA out of it, and just get the ADS-TB for the PATS bypass. As far as the alarm portion, no, I don't NEED it, but was thinking I may as well do the extra work to have the security system. You make a pretty strong point, however.

Which leads me to my follow up questions:

1) to confirm, the 5806V will manage the door locks? Or do I need the DEI door lock module and tie it in?
2) as far as the (-) door trigger...how difficult of a workaround is that?

Again, thanks for all the help.

*****Just saw your addition on the door trigger. I'll look into this. Thanks!

The Vipers (-) Unlock and Lock wires can be directly connected to the F150 wires shown in the Pictorial. No need for relays, resistors,
diodes or a 451M module.

As mentioned in the Pictorial, you could use the four door trigger wires and DEI TechTip 1921 to allow the Viper to monitor them. The
8 diodes and 4 resistors are cheap. Access to the needed wires at the SJB in the PKP isn't the greatest but doable. Using the Domelight
wire is another possibility but special provisions might be needed if there is a delay or fade function.   You could add the alarm function
later like the window roll-up.

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Soldering is fun!

Nice! I'm looking forward to the install now. Never thought it was as "plug and play" as it really is.

Thanks again for all the help.

Sorry to bother again, but I was going through the Tips and found Ford Tech Tip 1098. Is this an outdated tip for the products I'm working with? I assume the 5806v will handle the factory alarm disarm.

Thanks again in advance.

Well, the first question is : Does your F150 have the Factory Alarm system?
My assumption was it did not because you were interested in adding an alarm system via
the Viper 5806V. Having a "Panic" button on the Factory FOB is not an alarm system.
Try this test :
1. Roll down the drivers door window.
2. Turn the engine off and remove the ignition key.
3. Open the door.
4. Press the door lock button and shut the door.
5. Press Lock on the Factory FOB twice.
6. Wait 2 minutes.
7. Reach in the open window and use the inner door release handle to open the door.
Does the horn start beeping?



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Soldering is fun!

Good morning. I'll check for the factory alarm in just a bit and get back with you.

Okay, so with a few attempts, I had no luck getting an alarm to trigger.

Also, I decided to order a DBALL3 as well. I'm going to contact a few local shops to see if someone will flash it. Prevents me from having to run the door trigger setup in that Tech Tip. Do you have any idea if a shop will flash for me?

I really hope I don't have an 80 bit key. This would throw a wrench into everything.

It would seem that you do not have the Factory Alarm system. That is good as it simplifies the install.

I have heard that most DEI shops will not flash the DB3 for you. Not sure if they are trying to make money
or follow DEI corporate policy. Either way, call around to verify. If you really want the DB3, try to see
if you can order it from a place that will Flash it with the desired firmware prior to shipment. The only
thing you won't be able to do is Key-2-Go.

As for 40 or 80 Bit encryption, my money would be on 40 bit. There is a simple test you can do to determine
which type PATS system you have. Here is the write-up from DEI :

How do I differentiate between the 40 & 80 bit?
To determine which encryption type you are dealing with, you must test pin 1
at the 4-pin IMMO connector on the key barrel for the following conditions to
determine if it is 40 or 80-bit type.

An 80-bit vehicle should provide the following values:
• NO key in barrel: 0v
• Key in barrel with IGN OFF: (+) 12V
• Key in barrel with IGN ON: (+) 12V

A 40-bit vehicle should provide the following values:
• NO key in barrel: 0v
• Key in barrel with IGN OFF: 0v
• Key in barrel with IGN ON: (+) 12V

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Soldering is fun!

Great. That's the plan. I can test for that easily. Thanks for that information. It looks like I'm going with the install in this guide (https://www.directechs.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?d=-5191&p=590&f=15855) (should download as PDF) as "without factory alarm".

So the graphic in the guide shows no wiring into the CAN-BUS system (via OBD), but below, in the document, it shows that those things get wired in. I'm confused. Will the DBALL3 work with the CAN-BUS system in the truck, or am I simply misreading things?

Can't tell you how much I appreciate the help.

I'm afraid I get confused by DEI bypass module install guides, too. That's one of the reasons I choose not to use DB type
bypass modules. I'm pretty sure I won't be able to supply much insight to your install now that you have decided to go with
the DB-ALL3. I can say that the guide link you supplied above is for the FORD1 firmware which only does the PATS bypass
function. You would want to use the FORD6 firmware to get the other supported functions like door status monitoring. Here
is a link to that guide : https://directechs.blob.core.windows.net/ddt/403-FORD6-3.18-ORI_2010-Ford-F-150_IG_EN_20171227.pdf

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Soldering is fun!

Booooooom!!! I think that's gonna be a winner.

Thanks again. You're a priceless resource in this field.

You happen to be familiar with the MS CAN and HAS CAN systems? I got everything wired yesterday, double checked, then when I tried to program, my truck started wigging out, throwing multiple errors )TPMS fault, traction control). And my head deck (which attaches via Maestro to my OBD) was giving me OBD errors.

Once I clipped all 4 wires, everything went back to normal. What could have gone wrong with the HS CAN and MS CAN wires. There are 4...

Thanks again.