2008 Nissan Sentra Base Door Locks

Currently I'm installing a Cs-800s into the above mentioned vehicle, and I have the remote start functionality working, but am struggling with the locks.

The switch that controls them is what I thought, type B. Black - Ground ; Red - Constant 1.38V ; Pink - Constant 12V    .

My dilemma is, unless I'm missing a major factor, but how do I get it to unlock? The Compustar outputs two negative 250ma signals respectively to each function ( lock / unlock ). Locking works, simply connect the disarm to the red wire, and when the voltage drops the doors lock.

When I press unlock and meter both wires, red goes up to about 1.46V and pink drops down ( forget the exact readout ) .

If the response would be a relay, do I need a relay for both actions, or would I only need to do a relay for the unlock that sends a positive to red, and the negative continues to pink.

If any of you have a diagram for the relay, and an appropriate rating fuse ( 10A, 15A, 30A ) , please let me know.

Thanks!

I'm testing this at the switch itself, I don't know if that would directly cause this issue. I planned on wiring it properly through the plug by the kick panel, but wanted to get it to work prior, as this car has an adapter pedal system for someone with loss of function of their legs.

Power Lock      red      -      driver kick, door harness           
Power Unlock      pink      -      driver kick, door harness      

Got that down, found those in the kick and tried connecting there, but still my problem lies in having to send a positive to the lock and negative to unlock.

I have a relay setup as the following idea

unlocks negative -> converts to a positive - > lock
unlocks negative - > power unlock wire


The relay isn't functioning.


I have tried it with my 12v drill battery, which reads 10.46V output. I touch the trigger ground to the chasis, and I hear it click. But when I try to use the -250ma output from the alarm system, it gives no click. Same when its connected to the constant 12V from battery.

You need to send a negative pulse to the red lock wire to lock and a negative pulse to the pink unlock wire to unlock. Sending a positive pulse to either of these wires will do nothing.

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~wirewise~ Verify all wiring with your meter before making any connections!

Tried that, and nothing occurred.

metered the unlock sequence again, and same results. One goes up, one goes to ground.

themrzoo wrote:

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unlocks negative -> converts to a positive - > lock
unlocks negative - > power unlock wire

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This is not correct and you do not want to use the same output from the alarm to lock and unlock this vehicle. You have Type B negative door locks. If you are getting 12V on one of the wires only during lock or unlock, then you have the wrong wire. If you have a test light, not a meter, clamp it to ground, then probe each of those wires (red and pink) without doing anything else. If the doors lock and unlock, then you have the correct wires. If it only locks or unlocks, then you only have one of the correct wires.

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~wirewise~ Verify all wiring with your meter before making any connections!

wirewise wrote:

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themrzoo wrote:

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unlocks negative -> converts to a positive - > lock
unlocks negative - > power unlock wire

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This is not correct and you do not want to use the same output from the alarm to lock and unlock this vehicle. You have Type B negative door locks. If you are getting 12V on one of the wires only during lock or unlock, then you have the wrong wire. If you have a test light, not a meter, clamp it to ground, then probe each of those wires (red and pink) without doing anything else. If the doors lock and unlock, then you have the correct wires. If it only locks or unlocks, then you only have one of the correct wires.

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So i tried just grounding the two to see what happened, and the lock one worked like normal, unlock sparked and did nothing.


So tell me then, because I'm confused, but there's only three wires going into the switch. Red. Pink. Black. The pink is constant 12V at rest only. Black is gnd. Red rests at 1.38V.

should just be straight negative locks on the red and pink wire in dkp. make sure on the compustar you are using the blue/black as lock and blue as unlock on the cn5 grey connection

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33 years as a installer now just a retired old guy. Favorite thing to install/topic are remote starts/car alarms. Stop using test lights!!!

To avoid the spark and potentially any damage or blown fuse, you should have used a test light as I said.

Not sure why the wires on the switch are showing what they are and would have to see it myself to try to answer your question. Telling us one wire goes up and one wire goes to ground doesn't help us. Perhaps if we knew what color wire is showing what during unlock might help. Are you the original owner of the vehicle? Have there been other accessories added that have been tied into the door locks? What do you have connected to the unlock wire now? Are the door locks factory or aftermarket? Can you locate the unlock relay?

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~wirewise~ Verify all wiring with your meter before making any connections!

Test light wasn't available, but thankfully no blown fuse or damage as all parts are functioning.


When I press unlock and meter both wires, red goes up to about 1.46V and pink drops to ground.


I am using blue / black as lock, and blue as lock.

Original owner of this vehicle was an older man, left it stock except for his handicap pedal controls ( no electrical ties at all . )

Presently I packed the car up and have only the lock function working as it's pouring rain. Factory door locks. I could look for the unlock relay tomorrow.

Going to also try the other pink wires in the DKP, even though I've matched the one tied to the switch.

The Lock and unlock wires are in the harness that comes from the driver's door and runs upwards into the dash. The lock wire is red with with 2 silver dots. The unlock wire is pink with 2 silver dots. To test set your meter to 12 volts. Put your red probe on a known good 12 volt source. Put your black probe on each wire to test if they are correct. Push and hold the lock switch on the inside door while you look at your meter. It should read 12 volts if you have found the correct wires. If your car has a factory alarm, then you need to find the arm/disarm wires in the same harness. The arm/lock wire is brown and the disarm/unlock wire is white. These wires are activated by turning the key in the outside driver's door key cylinder. Measure them the same way as the others. Turn and hold the key while watching the meter reading. The disarm/unlock wire requires a double pulse. The first pulse disarms and the second unlocks the doors. You should be able to program the system to give you a double pulse. Your system may be able to unlock and disarm the system prior to start and relock the doors after start. If not connect the disarm wire from the starter to the unlock wire and both to the white wire.

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sparky

The car shouldn't have an alarm though. I've locked the doors, and then through the open window unlocked it. No alarm sounded.

That's where I'm truly confused. I'm gonna take another look tomorrow, as its rained all day, but.

Factory alarms take at least 1 minute to set up. Did you wait a couple minutes before you reached in to open the door?

Solved this issue.


Anyone who has done this car, wanna point me in the direction of the horn? I'm getting " High drivers kick panel " but...

Appreciate all the help!

Please share your solution for the door locks. What did you find?

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~wirewise~ Verify all wiring with your meter before making any connections!

Horn info from Omega :

OEM Horn   GREEN (-)   32 PIN CONNECTOR ABOVE DRIVERS KICK

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Soldering is fun!