Viper 211HV and Bulldog RS82B in 01 F-150 SuperCrew

What I have:
- 2001 Ford F150 SuperCrew truck
- Viper 211HV keyless entry kit
- Bulldog Security RS82B remote start kit

What I want to do:
- Install Viper 211HV in my truck, utilizing the 211HV's progressive unlock option
- Install Bulldog RS82B, but trigger it using the 211HV's AUX button

What I know:
- I have successfully installed keyless entry systems and remote start systems, so I understand the "idiot" lingo from do-it-yourself install manuals. The Viper series "require" professional installation, so I feel I am missing some info.
- Per the dealer, my vehicle does not have factory keyless entry, so (per Bulldog Security) my lock system is "Type C" reverse polarity.
- I think there is a typo in the 211HV install manual. I'm not sure how much this is screwing my understanding up, but if it isn't a typo, I am completely lost. I believe the H1/6 line on page 4 should be 87A, not 87
- I found a wiring diagram for "Type C" reverse polarity locks on Bulldog's website, and I assume the relay numbers (30, 85, 86, 87, & 87A) are what the 211HV's H1/5, H1/6, H1/7, H1/8, H1/9, & H1/17 are referring to, but not all the relay pins are listed
- 211HV's H1/2 refers to the second lock output, which in the progressive lock system would be the second button press to unlock the rest of the doors

What I need help with:
- Just the progressive lock system. I have everything else color-matched to my vehicle's wiring. I don't know where to begin. Oddly I feel getting the RS82B to work off of the 211HV AUX button should be the hard part, but I have that figured out.

Links:
- Viper 211HV install manual
- F150 wiring colors
- RS82B manual
- "Type C" reverse polarity locks relay diagram

Well, it looks like you are doing your research and almost finished.

Yes indeed, the 211HV manual is wrong. The H1/6 wire is actually Pin 87A of the internal Lock relay.

Using the 211HV's H1/14 WHITE/BLUE (-) 200 mA CHANNEL 3 Trunk output to trigger the RS82B's R/S Blue trigger wire is a
somewhat hidden feature that requires a programming change on the R/S. Good work there.

Getting Progressive Unlock will require a bit more work and an additional external relay. Being as you don't have Factory Keyless
Entry, you don't have the GEM module and must wire into the lock system via the Type C method. Not a big deal with the 211HV
as it has internal relays. The twist is using the 211HV's Blue Second Unlock wire. So, for wiring, you would connect the 211HV
Lock outputs in the Type C fashion to the trucks Pink/Yellow. I usually go to the passanger side kick panel for these wires
because of easier access. The 211`HV's Unlock wires would go to the wire shown below :
Motor Driver Unlock      RED/ORANGE   AT OEM RELAYS OR DRIVER KICK PANEL *
This wire unlocks only the Drivers Door. And finally the HV211's Blue Second Unlock wire controls an external 30/40 Amp SPDT
relay to the Pink/Light Green Unlock ALL wire. The Second Unlock output would unlock all the doors on the 211HV's second
unlock buttom depression.

External Relay wires :
Relay Pin 85 to 211HV Blue Second Unlock
Relay Pins 86 and 87 to +12V through 20 Amp fuse
Relay Pin 87a to non-motor side of cut Pink/Light Green Unlock wire
Relay Pin 30 to motor side of cut Pink/Light Green Unlock wire


* This info is from Omega and not personally verified by me. Additionally they list other color wires for the Lock and Unlock wires
    as noted below so testing is important :
Motor Lock   PINK/BLACK   AT OEM RELAYS OR DRIVER KICK PANEL   
Motor All Unlock   PINK/ORANGE   AT OEM RELAYS OR PASS. KICK PANEL   
Motor Driver Unlock     (disarm defeat)   RED/ORANGE   AT OEM RELAYS OR DRIVER KICK PANEL

Here is a link to a very good guide on vehicle door lock types, testing and wiring :
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=708

Some photos of the lock wires, etc, can be found in this Pictorial on your truck :
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=134275

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Soldering is fun!

AWESOME! THANKS!

But you made me second guess the AUX on the 211HV. From the install manual of the RS82B, I altered the relay wiring diagram -- did I get it right?

Looks like I was slightly wrong with the 211HV's correct Trunk Release Output wire. It is indeed the Red/White wire
at H1/18. And yes your relay diagram will work but...
Standard relay convention has the relay coil Pin 85 getting the (-) input signal and Pin 86 getting the (+) input signal.
Reversing them as shown on your diagram usually will not cause any problems unless the relay has a built in coil
quenching diode. In that case the Pin 85 and 86 polarity must be observed. Also note the last two sentences in the R/S
wire description. The relays purpose is to change the typical (+) Lock pulse to a (-) signal that the Blue wire needs
to initiate a R/S sequence. While you are not using a vehicle Lock wire as the input signal, the 211HV Trunk Release
output is a (-) signal that the R/S system is looking for. It should function properly without the relay, just a direct
connection.

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Soldering is fun!

Would I assume on the cut lock wires -- the half going towards the door is the motor side of the wire?


Do I understand this correctly:

Sorry I'm jumping around...

In your response to the RS82B relay...I assumed with it only being a 200mA source that it needed a relay to juice up the power to the RS82B blue wire. I would prefer to use the least number of relays, so then I'll connect the 211HV's H1/18 red/white wire directly to the RS82B's blue wire. Thanks!

The lock relay wiring is correct. Here is one way to determine the Motor or Switch side of the cut Type C lock wire :


Easy way to tell which side of the cut wire is the switch
and which is the motor, is to cut the wire and then press
the button. If it shows 12v it is the switch side of the
button you just pressed. Sometimes it isn't always easy
to tell which end goes to the switch and which side goes
to the car.

Remember to fuse the external relay's +12V supply power.

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Soldering is fun!

You are correct that adding a relay to the Trunk Release output will give it a better/stronger signal than the 211HV's 200mA output
and depending on the RS82B's needs might be required but I believe the un-enhanced 200mA signal should be sufficient.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks again!

I totally forgot I had this. It's a aftermarket door keypad like Ford's factory keypad. I bought it for a different vehicle I no longer have and found it when I was looking for a relay in a spare parts both.

If I wanted to throw this into the mix....the lock/unlock are relay connections just like the 211HV, right? Common is 87, normally closed is 87A, & normally open is 30?

Not exactly.

With that unit the wires with Green as the primary color are Lock and Blue as primary are Unlock.
As for Relay pin correlation :
xxx/White = Pin 30
xxx/Red = Pin 87a
xxx/Yellow = Pin 87

So for your Type C application :
xxx/White goes to motor side
xxx/Red goes to switch side
xxx/Yellow goes to +12V constant ( add 15 Amp fuse for circuit protection )

The Parking Light output is only (+) which is OK for your Ford truck. You only need to connect one,
either L or R.

If you really wanted to get fancy, you could use the relays unlock wires for the Drivers door and the (-)Trunk
output to trigger the Second Unlock relay to do all the doors by adding that wire to Pin 85.

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Soldering is fun!

Thank you so much!

Last question....

I am also installing an RS82B in my wife's 09 Ford Flex, which does have factory keyless entry. I will be using the factory keyless option on the RS82B where you press the lock button three times to remote start the vehicle. The website says the Flex is a type B lock system. Can I connect the door lock relay (white #86 in picture) directly to the wire directly to the Flex's blue/green lock wire? I am struggling finding a type B lock diagram...

On the Ford Flex, even though it has Type B locks, you can't use the listed (-) Lock wire as a trigger
input for the RS82B. Even with a relay ( and wired correctly ) it won't work. In this case you must use
a relay to convert the drivers door lock motor wire from a (+) to a (-) and that relay output
goes to the RS82B as the R/S trigger input. Here is that wires' info from Bulldog Security :
LOCK MOTOR WIRE   GRAY/BROWN (5-WIRE TYPE)   IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL
The Bulldog relay diagram above is correct with the Lock Motor wire. Just beware that pressing the
door lock button on the inner door three times in a row will start the vehicle.


For the transponder bypass you can use a programmed Valet key rather than one of the original Factory
keys. You can get them off eBay for about $10, get them cut at a local hardware store for $2 and
easily program them yourself. I would get a couple and get them cut and programmed. Use one for the
RS82B bypass and keep a spare in the house. Having a spare key is always a good idea.   :)

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Soldering is fun!

So this, where the trigger is the door lock wire gray/brown, & negative output is directly to the RS82B blue wire (no relay needed?)

Not sure I understand...

With the RS82B AMA control coming from the 211HV (-) Trunk Release output - no relay needed, direct connection OK.

With 2009 Ford Flex and using the Driver Door Lock motor wire ( which is 5 Wire REV or Type C ) you need a relay to
convert the (+) Lock Motor pulse to the RS82B's required (-) pulse for proper input.

I know it's confusing. The Flex has Type B locks and the locks can be controlled by a simple (-) pulse on those
indicated Type B wires. However, at the door locks themselves, it's a basic solenoid lock motor setup and the
Driver Door Lock Motor wire is treated as a Type C system. It is a (+) pulse at that point that can be used
via a conversion relay to initiate a R/S.

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Soldering is fun!

On Flex

"With 2009 Ford Flex and using the Driver Door Lock motor wire ( which is 5 Wire REV or Type C ) you need a relay to
convert the (+) Lock Motor pulse to the RS82B's required (-) pulse for proper input."

That pic was what I thought it would be to convert lock motor + to - for direct(?) connection to RS82B blue (to press lock button 3 times to activate R/S).

I must not understand...

I guess. I would not call it a direct connection from the Flex to the RS82B due to the relay in between.
It is a direct connection from Pin 30 of the relay to the RS82B. The picture is correct if your are using
(+) Lock Motor input. ( It wasn't correct if you were trying a (-) signal input like using the Type B
Door Lock wire.)

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Soldering is fun!

I misunderstood...

"Here is that wires' info from Bulldog Security :
LOCK MOTOR WIRE   GRAY/BROWN (5-WIRE TYPE)   IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL
The Bulldog relay diagram above is correct with the Lock Motor wire. Just beware that pressing the
door lock button on the inner door three times in a row will start the vehicle."

I can connect the gray/brown wire you specified to the "door lock motor wire" in this RS82B diagram, right?

Sometimes I read things too literally.

"I can connect the gray/brown wire you specified to the "door lock motor wire" in this RS82B diagram, right?"

That sentence could be interpreted as connecting the Door Lock Motor wire to the Gray/Brown wire, but they are the same wire.
If we swap the word "to" with the word "as" and move the word "to" in the above sentence I'm happy with that statement. Corrected
sentence below.

I can connect to the gray/brown wire you specified as the "door lock motor wire" in this RS82B diagram, right?

So, for your 2009 Ford Flex, the Door Lock Motor wire is Gray/Brown and the polarity conversion relay wire from Pin 86
gets connected to it.

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Soldering is fun!