Printer Friendly Forum Posts - CM6000 Quit Starting, 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Recently the compustar cm6000 will not start my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee. When the start command is sent from the remote the cars dashboard lights come on and the fuel pump primes but the starter does not spin. Then the horn honks and the doors lock. Where do I start? It used to work, nothing has been touched.
Thank you.

The immobilizer bypass module is not functioning.

I am using the blade.

Lubrano wrote:

Recently the compustar cm6000 will not start my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee. When the start command is sent from the remote the cars dashboard lights come on and the fuel pump primes but the starter does not spin. Then the horn honks and the doors lock. Where do I start? It used to work, nothing has been touched.
Thank you.

Do the parking lights flash 3 times and then again a number of times to indicate an error code?
Have you checked the parking brake and hood pin inputs?

No the parking lights do not flash 3 times. You hear the jeeps fuel pump turn on and prime then a second later the horn honks, lights flash once and the door locks. Going out to pull out the module and check those inputs tomorrow. Thank you.

Checked the inputs and those are not the problem. No error codes. I did pull the blade out and the starter will now spin. The car will not run but the starter spins. So, confused this in not a new install. It has been working for years.

The vehicle ignition wire is interrupted by the Blade cartridge so that is why it won't start with the cartridge removed.
Here is a link to the install guide : https://images.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/DL-CH6/BLADE-AL(DL)-CH6-EN_20180103.pdf

You could try a Blade reset and then re-program the Blade to the Jeep.

Disconnect CN4 from the CM6000.
Press and hold the Blade programming button ( just under the Blade LED ) while inserting the Blade cartridge.
The Blade LED should start flashing Red. Immediately release the Blade programming button.
The Blade LED will go solid Red for 2 seconds and then out.
Reconnect the CN4 connector.
While watching the Blade LED, insert the ignition key and turn to ON.
The Blade LED will go solid Red and then ( within 20 seconds ) go solid Blue and then out.
Remove the key.

Next try a regular key start up. Then try a remote start up.

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Soldering is fun!

After spending a lot of time on this I am still at a loss but have some more information. Yes, you are 100 percent correct the immobilizer (blade) is not working. I do not understand why since it is built in to the blade? The blade is working everything else doors, timers, security ect...? I did the factory reset with no luck. I even reflashed the blade and nothing changed. I pulled the blade out remote started it with the key in and it works. Why in the world will it not bypass the immobilizer? This system has been working for about 10 years, think the blade is broken? Don't have a spare to test with so that will be money in the trash if it is not the problem. It is only a 4 wire hook and I checked all the connections and they are good. Should I purchase another blade? Any other ideas? Just checking, once I get the blue constant light that should be it and the blade should have learned the immobilizer correct?

Thank you all for your support.

Just a little terminology so I don't get confused.
The CM6000 is the Compustar R/S Alarm controller and the iDatalink Blade AL cartridge slides into the CM6000 and in your case handles just the immobilizer bypass.

If you re-flashed the Blade with the CH6 firmware and successfully performed the vehicle programming, it should work. The Blue LED should come on for about
2 seconds and then go off at the end of vehicle programming. Strange that it won't R/S.

However, if it will remote start with the working key inserted but not turned in the ignition cylinder, that points towards the Blade not doing its' job.

The GWR signal is internal between the CM6000 and the Blade AL cartridge, so no test is possible. You could check to see if the CM6000 is outputting the
GWR signal on the CN3 Pin 11 Black wire. Not a guarantee but...

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Soldering is fun!

yes, everything you said is correct except the blade handles more than the immobilizer. Keyless entry, security and remote start (immobilizer) through the vehicles data line. The strange part is the door locks work and the alarm is activated and deactivated through the compustar remote.
https://www.idatalink.com/firmware/firmware/firmware_family_id/30

Pin 11 Black [POC 5] – Status/Ground while running 250mA negative (-) output. This is an optional output that
will provide a negative (-) output before the ignition cranks and stay on throughout the remote start dura
tion. This wire is most commonly used to trigger bypass / transponder modules.

I will check it out tomorrow. If, I got this correctly the blade might be good and the cm6000 might not be telling the blade to bypass the immobilizer. I know it is trying to start the vechile because the fuel pump primes but no cranking then shuts down with a horn honk and parking light flash.

Ok. I have some interesting news. The black wire has 9.4 volts on it with Jeep off. I tried it with the blade in and removed still 9.4 volts. When it goes in to remote start I see 12.5 for a second before it cancels the remote start. If I test it with the car running from the key start I have 10.3 which I assume the increase is from the alternator charge voltage. I ask should there be 9.4 volts on this wire with nothing running? If not what am I looking at a bad brain
now? If so, can I just replace it with a 7200 now. All my old remotes will work? Hope this information helps figure out the problem. Thank you so much.

You should be seeing that wire's voltage drop close to 0V during the remote start cycle.

Ordered a replacement brain. Let you know how it goes. I was able to find a used cm6000 for a good price.

Think that is where I would start. The Blade flashes ok, programs ok and controls the locks ok over the same J1850 Data wire
as it uses for the bypass function.

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Soldering is fun!

OK. Replacement cm6000 brain does the same thing. No different. Really at a loss this... One thing more I noticed is when it is trying to start the blade flashes blue twice. Any other ideas?

Please, is there anyone here who can help me with this problem. It is getting cold and need this thing to start, getting desperate. Can it be a bad Blade? Don't want to spend the cash on the wrong part. All help is extremely appreciated. Thank you.

Lubrano wrote:

Please, is there anyone here who can help me with this problem. It is getting cold and need this thing to start, getting desperate. Can it be a bad Blade? Don't want to spend the cash on the wrong part. All help is extremely appreciated. Thank you.

Several posts advised that the problem was the immobilizer bypass/blade.

Problem found but not resolved! Received a new blade today. Programmed it and it did the same exact thing. Being very frustrated now I turned all the settings off on blade. WOW! it worked and the jeep started! One by one turning them back on found the problem. The Blade is monitoring the brake pedal. For some reason the jeeps data stream thinks the foot brake is being applied. I turned off "monitor brake pedal" and it works. I now have to look in to why the jeep thinks the brake pedal is depressed but the remote start problem has been solved. Interesting the brake lights are not on but the jeep computer thinks the brakes are depressed. Took out the brake switch and noticed there are 3 switches built in to the assembly. One switch was not changing position when the switch was pressed. Ordered a new switch. Hopefully this is the end.

There is an asterisk for "brake pedal output" in the install guide saying - only available when the ignition is on. Maybe that is related to your problem? But to fix the condition how about turning off the brake pedal monitor on the blade and just hard wiring the brake pedal wire that has voltage when brake applied, to the remote start module? Only done a couple of remote starts but - hope this helps.