2011 Avalon PTS Remote Start Arm\Disarm

I am trying to install idatalink and crimestopper rs4-g5 in 2011 avalon as first time diy install. I am not able to figure out where to connect ARM and Disarm from 12 pin rs4 to vehicle. Idatalink showed in diagram to connect rearm to Rap Shutdown pin, I am not sure about that. Can someone please help me in this connection?

Install manual shows that the RAP connection is a blue wire at position 14 at the driver smart junction box connector. Connect the CS4-G5 orange re-arm output to that blue wire.

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Steve G

Thanks for the reply. Thats what I taught and I dont think I need to use disarm wire from rs4.

I see, There are no wire to connect to Starter 2 as shown in idatalink wiring diagram. Leaving that starter2 and just using accessory is fine?

I see 2 starter wires on the idatalink install manual.
Pin 15 and 17 behind the glove box both need to be hooked up as they are listed as required connections.

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Steve G

kumar33116 wrote:

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I see, There are no wire to connect to Starter 2 as shown in idatalink wiring diagram. Leaving that starter2 and just using accessory is fine?

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I had difficulty understanding what you meant but after rereading it, I think you are asking if you can use Accessory output to attach to Starter 2 on the car?

You only have 4 high power outputs on your RS4-G5 so you will have to add a relay since you have 5 high power connections on your Avalon. It would probably be best to hook the existing 4 wires as marked. Pretty sure you need to have the accessory wired up if you want any heat/AC controls while remote started. For the 2nd Starter connection, you can use the Blue/Orange (-) start output on the red 3 pin low current plug of the RS4-G5. This output is negative so you must wire it to a relay to power the positive starter 2 wire of the Avalon.

If you use the RS4-G5 Accesory output like you suggested to power the 2nd starter, it would need to be programmed in the options menu to be a starter output instead of an accessory output. For this reason, I personally would leave it set to the default setting of Accessory and wire the 2nd starter relay to the blue/orange output. This way if the settings ever got reset to factory for some reason, the outputs would all function correctly without having to reprogram any outputs in the options menu.

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Steve G

iskidoo wrote:

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kumar33116 wrote:

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I see, There are no wire to connect to Starter 2 as shown in idatalink wiring diagram. Leaving that starter2 and just using accessory is fine?

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I had difficulty understanding what you meant but after rereading it, I think you are asking if you can use Accessory output to attach to Starter 2 on the car?

You only have 4 high power outputs on your RS4-G5 so you will have to add a relay since you have 5 high power connections on your Avalon. It would probably be best to hook the existing 4 wires as marked. Pretty sure you need to have the accessory wired up if you want any heat/AC controls while remote started. For the 2nd Starter connection, you can use the Blue/Orange (-) start output on the red 3 pin low current plug of the RS4-G5. This output is negative so you must wire it to a relay to power the positive starter 2 wire of the Avalon.

If you use the RS4-G5 Accesory output like you suggested to power the 2nd starter, it would need to be programmed in the options menu to be a starter output instead of an accessory output. For this reason, I personally would leave it set to the default setting of Accessory and wire the 2nd starter relay to the blue/orange output. This way if the settings ever got reset to factory for some reason, the outputs would all function correctly without having to reprogram any outputs in the options menu.

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Sorry for my English. Yes this is what exactly I am asking about. I understand what you are saying about to use 3 pin low current wire to connect to starter 2. Why cant I use Brown wire in 5 high power connections for both accessory + and starter 2 + .? I guess starter 2 means constant 12v same as accessory after car started right? This way I can avoid the headache for relay.

Also Can you confirm, I dont need GWR from 12-pin harness on rs4-g5. As it is shown in idatalink, I dont need to use it if I use 1-way data mode wire. Is it safe to assume remote start will not trigger the starter again and again if accidentally pressed after remote start?

Brown wire is already in use for Starter 1. Definitely do not connect one wire to both Starter 1 and starter 2. They are separate in the vehicle for a reason. If you connect them together without a relay to isolate the 2 different circuits, you will likely damage your vehicle's computer.

I do not think you need GWR if you use the 1-way data connection but keep in mind that the RS4-G5 will not recognize the data coming from the idatalink until you change the setting in the RS4-G5's option menu #5 from default to the "idatalink" setting.

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Steve G

Sorry, I mean to say the gray wire in 6 pin high current harness. Can I use the same wire to power accessory and starter 2?

Yes, I made a note of programming it to ADS and I noticed default is fortin in crimestopper.

Also, I have question on factory disarm, It looks like for my car unlock is same as disarm. If I dont use disarm wire in 12pin harness of rs4-g5, do i need to program option 10 to ON?
UNLOCK BEFORE REMOTE START:
This option is used to disarm an OEM Alarm System before Remote Start. Default =OFF

and for re-arming i see we can use RAP shutdown - connection.

Again I really appreciate your help in explaining the connections. Thank you very much.

You can not use the same output for 2 different functions.

The vehicle's accesory wire turns on and remains on after successfully remote starting and remains on the entire time that the vehicle is remote started. This is used to power heat and AC controls during remote start.

The vehicle's starter wire is only powered momentarily during the beginning of the remote start sequence snd then turns right off when the engine is running.

If you wired them both together to the Gray Accessory Output then when you remote start the vehicle the starter motor would engage and continue to grind even after the engine was running. This constant power to the starter would destroy the starter motor.

I would leave the lock/start option 10 settings alone and try remote starting after all the connections are made. If the alarm triggers when you attempt remote start then go back and try changing the setting. The idatalink may handle the disarming but I'm not sure so test it after everything is wired up.

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Steve G

Thanks Steve, I am all set. I will order the parts now.

Last question, should I ask ebay seller to use 2-way or 1-way when flashing the idatalink. if I choose 2-way mode, can I still ignore dotted lines shown in idatalink ads-tb-tl4 page.

Sorry I've never used those products before. Perhaps someone else would know better and can chime in.

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Steve G

iskidoo wrote:

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Sorry I've never used those products before. Perhaps someone else would know better and can chime in.

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Never mind. I just ordered Fortin Evo-ALL and rs4-g5 and crimestopper flu 100.2 flashlink updater.

With Fortin, I dont need to use starter 2, so no need of relay and also it can do auto light shutdown and most important, it give me option for takeover which will be easy on starter motor.

I taught to order evo-one but it is not doing any good other than removing addition console, for my car I still need to use RF kit and same number of output connections as evo-all.

iskidoo wrote:

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Sorry I've never used those products before. Perhaps someone else would know better and can chime in.

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Hi Steve, I installed the Fortin evo-all with rs4-g5 today and this is too much work for this car without any harness. remote start is working fine after fixing the reversed IMI cut wires. Only issue I have now is Car is unlocking the doors after remote start, and bcz of this it look like auto-lights are not switching off after remote start too.

I disabled option 10 in rs4-g5 since I opted unlock and lock in evo-all. Am I missing something here?