2000 Ford F-250 7.3 Diesel, Viper 4806V Install

Hey guys, I'll be installing the Viper 4806V in a 2000 Ford F250 7.3 Diesel with factory keyless this week. I've never done a diesel before so I have a couple questions - any input is welcome.

1a. With it being a diesel, can I get away with using the Virtual Tach feature of the Viper? Or am I better off finding a tach source?
1b. If I do need to find the tach, I've read multiple threads about there being an open tach wire (with heat shrink on the end) somewhere in this truck, can someone confirm this? Some threads say under the hood, some say under the dash.

2. Instead of the WTS wire, I'm planning to use the Diesel Start Delay set to 45 seconds. Is this the recommended method?

3. Door Locks - based on my research, I can simply use the (-) triggers in the gray molex plug next to the steering column. Correct?

4. It looks like this vehicle may have an Ignition 3 (thin Red/Black wire). Do you guys worry about this one? If so I'm guessing I'll need to run a relay, as this Viper only supports IGN 1/2?

For what it's worth, I'm MECP basic certified, but do very little security/convenience installs. If you have any tips/tricks on this vehicle I'd love to hear them.

Thanks!

Here’s your wiring. Honestly I would use the wait to start wire. No timed delay. And definitely a tach wire.

Download pdf

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Gary Sather

Thanks so much for the wiring info and your input! Much appreciated.

There is an "S" shaped wire conduit on the inside of the firewall behind the brake pedal. Lift the cover off. I found both the WTS and Tach wire right on top of the bundle of wires. WTS is blk/pink, and Tach is wht/pnk. Virtual Tach won't work with a 7.3 because of the way the glow plugs cycle.

One of the red/blk at the IGN switch will test as hot in run and start. Connect to viper pink.
The other red/blk will test as hot in run only. This has to be powered to prevent transmission codes. Connect to Viper pink/white, program as ACCY.
Connect gry/yel at IGN switch to Viper orange. This is for HVAC.
The final wire at IGN sw is blk/grn. This is an ACCY for radio and wipers. It does not need to be powered in an unoccupied vehicle. I don't power this wire so that the wipers won't activate if they are left on, and there is heavy snow accumulation on the windshield that might jamb the wipers if remote started without brushing the windshield first.

I don't think the lock wires are available except in the kick panels. I picked up mine at the GEM on the rear of the under dash fuse box. I did progressive locks in my 99, all three connections are (-) trigger at the GEM. Pnk/LtBlu = Driver Unlock. Pnk/Yel = All Lock. Pnk/LtGrn = Pass and Rear door Unlock.

Hey davep. thanks for your reply! This info helps a lot.

Two questions.

1. Why not just leave the Viper pink/white at the factory default (IGN 2)? Why program to ACCY? Sorry for the rookie question, just curious.

2. Can you expound on the locks? How can I set up progressive locks with only one unlock output wire?

You can leave the pnk/wht at "Ignition 2" if you wish. The second red/blk in the truck for transmission is only hot in RUN, not START so that is technically an "Acessory" configuration. Hence the suggestion. Probably doesn't make any difference either way.

I am not familiar with the 4806, nor did I look it up, But most DEI products have a Second Unlock (dk blue wire) output in the main harness. Wire the primary unlock to the driver door, the second unlock to the other doors.
EDIT/ADD: I remembered something. Some of the later DEI products may not have the "2nd Unlock" dedicated blue-wire output. But they SHOULD have programmable AUX outputs that will include a 2nd Unlock feature. Check your Install Guide for details.

You mentioned you DO have factory RKE in your 2000. The lock wiring I cited above including the (-) trigger, is ONLY present in the factory RKE trucks. Non RKE have different lock circuits.

Two other wires of interest are available at the rear of the GEM. Both of these can be driven directly by the Viper 200Ma (-) trigger output. No relay required:
Lt grn / yel = (-) trigger park light flash. I like this because B+ power for the park lights comes from the same fuse for both the truck and the light flash.
Orn / Lt grn = (-) Dome light supervision.

Okay that makes sense.

You are correct. Looking closer at the install guide, there is an option for "Aux Linking" to run a second unlock output off the AUX button.

Thank you!

Don't confuse the "Aux" that is used for the trunk-pop with the configurable "Aux outputs" usually numbered Aux 4, Aux 5, Aux 6; each with their own wire.
There are two programing channels for each Aux Output. One is the "function" and then there is a "linking". You can also change the button assignments on the fobs around, once the output is configured and linked. For 2nd unlock output, you want "second unlock". For linking on the same output, select "no linking".

DEI instructions can be confusing to comprehend because the Japanese to English translation is usually pretty clunky. Read it over and over, and bench testing helps too, and you'll get it. As long as you don't put full battery voltage into an output, or overload an output, you can't hurt the module.

Okay I got the RS installed today. I went to do the learn procedure on the tach and the 4806 refuses to learn the tach signal...

I followed these instructions:

Start the vehicle with the key. Within 5 seconds press and hold the control center button. Within 3 seconds the led should blink solid indicating the tach signal was learned.

In my case, the led never lights up.   I have tapped the white/pink wire in the 's' shaped harness on the firewall. I have tested this wire with a DMM on AC volts - this wire has ~3 volts while idling and the voltage increases with a throttle snap. I have double checked all other connections and I'm at a loss at this point.

With this being a diesel, I have to figure out this tach issue. Any input is much appreciated.

Couple things. Can you program other features?? If not verify that a door trigger or dome supervision wire is hooked up correctly to enter programming mode successfully. If you CAN program other features but not learn tach make sure it is first programmed to tach mode before attempting to learn tach. Also in SOME cases the tach signal is a dirty signal and I would attempt to tap it somewhere else I.e. at the cluster and if it still won’t learn directed has a module to take the dirty signal and output a clean tach.

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Gary Sather

Hey Gary, thanks for your input!

I forgot to mention - I can program features just fine. I also turned on Tach Mode (item 2, option 4) in Menu 3. But the damn thing still refuses to learn the tach signal.

I'm wondering if the white/pink I tapped on the main harness is wrong... I'm seeing 12v DC with ignition on, not running.   A true tach signal wire wouldn't show any voltage without the vehicle running right?

UPDATE: For the hell of it I ran it in Virtual Tach mode - works great! However this is a Utah truck and I don't feel like this is good reliable way to run the RS long term. Thoughts??

I don’t want to lead you wrong in that question but as far as I know when you turn the ignition on it energizes the coils and since the engines not running I would think yes you could see 12 volts there. Not positive as I have always tested while running. If when you have the meter et to ac and start your truck at idle it settles in around 3 volts (ish) and goes up when you rev then it should be a good tach wire. That doesn’t tell you how clean the signal is though. I would try getting it at the cluster and if still no success try going tachless and timed wait to start until you can get a module. Off the top of my head also what bypass module did you use? Some of them will give you tach as well.

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Gary Sather

Went to the cluster and grabbed the tach wire there. The Viper learned the tach signal immediately! Thanks for all your input tonanzith and davep!

This Powerstroke now starts up great in tach mode.

Key points:

If you have a 99-01 7.3 Powerstroke get your tach signal from behind the cluster!

Also, all tech info describes the wire as white/pink, but the wire is more of a tan/off-white color with a pink tracer.

A great place to stick the brain on these trucks is lower brace for the knee panel. I just built a simple ABS bracket for it (this pic is before doing a final clean up on wiring).