2014 Ford Edge, iDatalink ADS-ALCA Issues

Hello guys, running into a strange one here.
Installing Avital Remote Start in a 2014 Edge. Trying to program the idatalink module with no luck. Using D2D mode.

When I insert key into ignition I get a flashing red light. After removing key and reinserting key get a solid red light for about 2 seconds then nothing else.

Have double checked wiring to the pats connector. Using firmware dbi- al- fm3. Any ideas?

Also on the diagram at the one connector it is asking for a ground on pin 4 from the remote start? Any idea on that? Only ground I have on the remote start is the chassis ground.

Thanks guys

Yes, I would follow the Type 1 Install Guide and make the R/S ground wire connect at the OBD2 plug as shown.


Next triple check your wiring to ensure that the cut TX wire has the correct bypass connections in regard to
"vehicle side" and "connector side".

Verify that the CAN High and CAN Low wires are not reversed.

As for module programming, I would follow this sequence :
1. Perform a Factory Reset as shown at the end of the Install Guide, but stop at Step 5.
2. When the Red LED goes out, the module will start doing a single Green LED blink indicating
    Data Installation Mode. At this point press and hold the programming button to lock it in
    as shown at the top of Page 7. Then do Factory Reset Step 6 and then go right into vehicle
    programming as shown on Page 7, Step 1.



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Soldering is fun!

Ill check all the wiring again when i can get the car back. I checked them a few times, but my brain is fried. Would not using the ground at the OBD plug cause these issues that you know of? I just used a chassis ground.

Don't think I've done a 2014 Edge recently. Last one was using a transponder bypass module
only ( ADS TB w/FM3) and I just used a solid chassis ground point and battery power ( not
+12V from ignition switch ) for the R/S brain. Interestingly enough, the TB FM3 guide
does not require chassis ground from the OBD2 plug. Perhaps it has to do with the CAN bus
use. I usually try to follow the guide and iDatalink specifically showing R/S ground from
the OBD2 connector would catch my eye. Being as you are having issues, I would follow the
guide exactly. I know that the ground source for some Passlock2 vehicles is critical but never
heard of that issue with PATS systems.   Last resort would be a call to iDatalink Tech Support
to hear what they say.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the help, I was gonna call tech support but they are closed because if the holiday. Hopefully get the car back this weekend to try and figure this out. I did also use 12v directly from the battery, as one wiring print i pulled said to use the battery only.

I'm with you on the +12V supply. The 12V at the ignition switch is a thin wire.
I'm kinda hoping that doing the Factory Reset will solve your issue.

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Soldering is fun!

Got ahold of tech support today. His advice was to also double check the tx and rx wiring, and also to use the ground at the OBD connector. He also advised that sometimes the ground needs to be moved to a spot on the dash closer to the PATS connector. Due to the PATS module reading a different resistance for ground and not seeing it correctly. Once i can get the car back and try his suggestions ill update the post.

Got this one fished yesterday. For some reason the module would not see the CAN signal. After checking and verifying connections were correct i called tech support again. There only suggestion was to flash the TB firmware and use that one and no can bus. Ended up working finally. The key programming instructions were not so good on this one either. But anyways shes all finished. Thanks for your help again @Kreg357

Good info! Thanks for the update.

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Soldering is fun!

Im having some similar issues to what u were having with my 2011 Ford Edge. Im using an Avital RS and an Idatalink ADS ALDL FM3. Did you have two immobilizer key fobs when u programmed? I only have one key fob and one valet key. I tried grounding it to the obd2 and chassis but nothing changed. I cannot seem to get the programming correct.

If I remember correctly the install guide specifically said you could not use the valet key as one of the keys for programming. Also there is no availability to use KLON like on some Fords.

Ok thanks, I will try to get a key cut from the Ford dealership and try again. I called tech support today and they said if the red light flashes after u press the button on the module, for the second key programming, that something is wrong with that key and it wont work.