2015 Toyota Tacoma 4 Door Compustar Door Lock Wiring

I have a 2015 Toyota Tacoma 4 door. I’m a little confused on the wiring for drivers door priority door unlock. I’m wiring up a Compustar FT-7000AS MAX IT with the Blade AL. In the install guide, it states that the CN11 lock harness connector is no longer used. These have been moved to the 20 pin CN5 connector. The unlock signal is on the blue wire on pin7. It’s to my understanding that any of the (-)POC’s can be programmed and used as a second unlock signal. From other posts on here I have learned that located in the driver’s kick panel on my Tacoma, there is:
Power lock - blue/white wire - gray 10 pin plug, pin 6
Power unlock - gray wire- gray 10 pin plug, pin7
Factory Alarm Arm - purple (driver door key lock) gray 10 pin plug, pin 4
Factory Alarm Disarm - green/ black (driver door key unlock) double - gray 10 pin plug, pin 8

I’m assuming what they are calling “factory alarm” is keyless entry. Because I have factory keyless entry with driver’s door priority unlock. One button push unlocks drivers door, second push unlocks all other doors. So, I’m wondering…do I just use the blue unlock wire on CN5 pin 7 from the CM7000 module and wire it to the green/black disarm wire on gray connector pin 8? Then program it in the options 1-3 and set drivers priority to “on?”

The Factory Alarm Arm and Disarm wires are really the signals coming directly from the drivers door lock cylinder.
They will lock and unlock the Tacoma and turn off the Factory Alarm. A few questions :
Does the truck have the Factory Alarm system?
Do you want to keep Progressive Unlock with the Compustar system?

Typically all you have to do is connect the Compustars Lock and Unlock outputs to those driver door key cylinder
wires and you're all set. You won't be using the Compustar disarm / arm wires or the trucks lock and unlock wires.
If you don't want Progressive Unlock, you can program the Compustar for a "double Unlock" output.



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No, the truck doesn’t have a factory alarm. Not really sure why people have labeled the green/black and purple wire as “factory arm/ disarm.” I do, however want to keep the progressive locking, or driver’s door unlock feature. Still not sure of what wire I should use as a second unlock. It’s to my understanding that in order to have driver’s door priority unlock feature, the driver’s door needs to be isolated from the other 3 doors. Do diodes need to be used in this scenario? Because I have seen other posts on here where people are using diodes in this type of setup. Or can I just tie the second unlock wire to the other three door lock wires?

Try connecting the Compustar Unlock wire to the trucks Disarm wire. The first Compustar unlock pulse should unlock only the drivers door. A second pulse within 3 seconds should unlock the rest. Progressive Unlock.

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Soldering is fun!

The disarm wire as in the green/black double pulse wire, I’m assuming. That’s kind of what I was thinking as well. Thanks for your input. I greatly appreciate it!

Also on this install, I would like to wire in the hazard/turn signals (same on this truck) to flash during arm/disarm/remote start just like factory lock unlock, rather than the parking lights. The wire for this according to Compustar, is the green high current wire from CN pin 7. Where is the best place to wire this in at…behind the hazard switch, or the main 12+ feeding into the relay from under hood fuse? And does anyone foresee a problem with using hazard/turn signal versus the parking lights?

Most installers use the Parking Lights. The main reason not to use the Hazards has to do with the fact that they
will blink during R/S run time, attracting unwanted attention. But the choice is yours. The thick Green/White
Compustar Parking Light output wire you mentioned is (+) at 10 Amps. Unfortunately the only Hazards wire I can
find listed for your truck is (-) polarity. But not to worry, Compustar makes it easy for you. Just use the
thin Green/White (-) Parking Light wire. Connect to this Tacoma wire :

Hazards     RED / white (-)    @ hazard switch, white 14 pin plug, pin 9

This wire can also be found at the under-dash fuse box.

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Soldering is fun!

Yeah, I wasn’t thinking clearly. But, yeah, if I wire in front of the relay it will flash during remoter start. I guess I was mainly thinking of the turn signals flashing while locking and unlocking my truck with the factory remote. Would there be another factory wire I could tap into to accomplish this without using the hazard switch wire?

It should be possible to use the Turn Signal lights. It would require a bit of extra testing and some
additional parts and wiring. Obtain four 3 Amp diodes. Test and locate these wires :

Turn Signal (Left)     yellow (F); yellow (R) (common on models w/o DRL) (+)    @ dash fuse box, wht 11 pin plg (1B), pin 7; wht 13 pin plg (1D), pin 11
Turn Signal (Right)    lt. blu (F); blu/wht (R)(common on models w/o DRL) (+)    @ dash fuse box, wht 11 pin plg (1B), pin 5; wht 13 pin plg (1D), pin 4

Use the diodes to isolate the connections ( bands towards the truck wires ) and the Compustars thick
Green/White Parking Light output wire to supply the needed (+) signal.



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Soldering is fun!

Thank you so much for your help! It has been greatly appreciated!

I got everything wired up. I flashed the Blade module and programmed it to the truck. I did the tach learning sequence and it took. But, the truck won’t start. It goes through the start process 3 times and gives me an error code 8 on my remote, and doesn’t crank. I reset the Blade, and reflashed it. I reinstalled it, and went through the process again with the same error. The green/white wire is cut for automatic transmission. The yellow/black wire is tapped into the black/white wire pin 9 on the OBD2 connector. The orange/black wire from the blade harness is tapped into the white wire pin 7 on the OBD2 connector. The pink wire from the Blade connector is tapped into the ignition wire. Am I missing something?

One thing I didn’t do was program options into the unit. However, the manual said “tach sense”was default from factory. Should I double check the programming of the brain?

Can you list your ignition wiring? That truck has two Ignitions, two Starters and one Accessory wire.

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Soldering is fun!

Thank you for the reply. I figured it out, and got in working perfectly. I was basing my install from another post on here. He had a 2014 Tacoma, and installing the same system with the blade. I had completely overlooked the fact that I needed to wire in a second relay for the second starter wire.🙄 There is one starter output on the CM7000, and there are two starter wires on the truck. Thanks again!

Good news! Glad it's working and just in time for the really cold weather.
Right now it's 2 degrees at my house....   8D

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Soldering is fun!