Do Aftermarket Keyless Entry Modules Have Internal Relays?

Do aftermarket RKE systems usually have integral relays fitted?

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Shaun

Tough question to answer. Usually they do but I wouldn't generalize too much. Before I bought an inexpensive RKE system, I would want to check out their install guide to be sure. A decent one, like the Viper 211HV or the Avital 2101L, has internal door lock relays. The install guide for these systems is in the Downloads section. While I'm sure the terminology is different on the "imported" units, you are looking for signals like Lock Common, Lock Normally Open and Lock Normally Closed. Those are the actual lock relay pins.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks,Kreg357.
I have bought the Toad RK30 which appears to be a good piece of kit from Scorpion.Excellent two button remotes.But the instructions are dire,despite it being a UK piece.Are you suggesting that the Lock normally open,Lock normally closed are the internal relay pins or the terminals to which I should connect external relays?
I'm wondering how I can test the output to the motors to see whether they are low or high current?


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Shaun

Below is the Viper 211 HV harness with wire labels. As mentioned, this unit has internal relays. It can be configured to support a wide variety of vehicles and door lock systems.   The best way to explain things is to compare this system to actual relays directly connected to door lock solenoids.   This site has door lock diagrams, here is a link : https://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/how-to-determine-power-door-lock-types.asp This page gives a brief explanation of the lock type and a link to the relay wiring diagram used to interface that style of locks.   While I'm guessing that you don't need the entire Door Lock Study course, you can get additional info from this Directed TechTip 1041. Here is a link : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=1213 Anyway, as you can see on the 211HV harness, they actually give the standard relay nomenclature numbers ( 30, 87 87A ) on the units wires. Relay is also important and can be gained with this link : https://www.the12volt.com/relays/spdt-and-spst-automotive-relays.asp

211HV

H1/1 RED (+) 12V CONSTANT POWER INPUT             
H1/2 BLUE (-) 200 mA SECOND UNLOCK OUTPUT   
H1/3 BLACK/WHITE-1 IN DOMELIGHT SUPER RELAY #87
H1/4 BLACK/WHITE OUT DOMELIGHT SUPER RELAY #30
H1/5 GREEN/BLACK LOCK #30 COMMON OUTPUT              
H1/6 WHITE/BLACK LOCK #87A NORMALLY CLOSED           
H1/7 VIOLET/BLACK LOCK #87 NORMALLY OPEN (INPUT)             
H1/8 BLUE/BLACK UNLOCK #30 COMMON (OUTPUT)      
H1/9 VIOLET UNLOCK #87 NORMALLY OPEN (INPUT)       
H1/10 WHITE (+/-) PARKING LIGHT FLASH OUTPUT          
H1/11 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND INPUT
H1/12 BROWN (-) HORN HONK OUTPUT    
H1/13 LT. GREEN/BLACK FACTORY ALARM DISARM          
H1/14 WHITE/BLUE (-) 200 mA CHANNEL 3 VALIDITY OUTPUT      
H1/15 YELLOW (+) SWITCHED IGNITION INPUT (ACCESSORY)     
H1/16 ORANGE (-) 500 mA GROUND-WHEN-ARMED OUTPUT          
H1/17 BROWN/BLACK UNLOCK #87A NORMALLY CLOSED            
H1/18 RED/WHITE (-) OUTPUT OF CHANNEL 2     

If you could post the wire harness and info on your system, that would
help determine if it had internal relays. Also knowing the current truck
lock wiring would help.   

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Soldering is fun!

This is all the wiring information I have from the RKE manufacturer: Please note this is keyless entry only with no alarm or immobiliser etc.
Grey/Red       =      Lock Common
Red/Yellow     =      Lock Normally Open
Grey/Yellow    =      Lock Normally Closed
Red/Black      =      Unlock Normally Open
Blue/Red       =      Unlock Common
Red Permanent Live
Black Earth
Orange Ignition switch supply
Black/white and Black/Green Positive indicator(turn signal)feeds
Brown/white window close or headlight flasher (relay required).

As far as I can establish, the van has a four wire reverse polarity setup with a three position switch on the dash. This is wired direct to the motors without any relays.Again,as far as I can establish....

Thanks

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Shaun

A three position switch with up for lock, down for unlock and a neutral center rest position?

Your RK30 system has internal door lock relays? What is the input fuse value?


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Soldering is fun!

Yes the three position switch is as you describe it.

The fuse value to the RK30 is 15amps

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Shaun

Take a look at the wire connections to that switch. If it is just three wires, 12V constant in the center and output legs for lock and unlock at top and bottom, it should be easy to have your RK30 supply the needed +12V to the same output terminals.

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Soldering is fun!

The switch has a total of six wires,two of which are for illumination, so we can discount them.

The remainder are Red, for Permanent live; black for ground (I tested these to check) These are in the center of the switch

Blue and blue for the lock and unlock legs .

While the wiring was accessible I tried all the wiring diagrams again (positive trigger locking and negative trigger locking),and the diagram showing the wiring for 'additional motor locking' (presumably an aftermarket installation?).This was the only one that moved the motors at all.

It seemed to be very,very weak compared to directly connected via the switch,as if the motors arent getting enough current.


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Shaun

On the basis that I cant find a definitive reply, I have purchased pair of relays with diodes fitted to try and improve the current supply to the motors.

Eventually I will connect it and see what happens. At last the diodes will protect the transistors within the RKE unit should a spike occur...

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Shaun

Do the aftermarket remote keyless entry modules give the same out put as the factory switch?
As mentioned before the motors move very slowly when using the remote keyless entry compared with the factory switch.. Topic closed. See https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=145339

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Shaun