Ford Econoline Van Door Lock Wiring

Have a bit of a mixed bag here but hoping someone can help. Have a 2002 Ford E350 van that was a cargo van with no power options. We used donor 1999 E350 wiring harnesses from a van that originally had the RKE module. So we used harnesses in the doors and to the rear of that van. That seems to have given me what I need to run the power windows and power mirrors without issues. But the power locks do not work. I've traced every wire I need to the passenger foot area and have been able to manually trigger all of the locks but alternating power on those two wires. Here is where I am stuck. When I test the lock switches I have constant power, and then another wire with power and then the third wire that gets power if I hit the switch. My assumption would have been constant power and then two wires without power until triggered locked or unlocked. What am I missing? My first thought is that I can add a couple relays to make this work and these ones seem to make the most sense Relay49

What am I missing guys before I start tearing into the wiring? IF it was one positive wire and two feed wires I'd be done already. Confused by the feed wire with constant power as well.

For the '99 wiring, how many wires are at the door lock/unlock switch? With factory keyless entry door harness I'm thinking three. These then triggered the RKE module, which powered the door lock actuators (by reversed polarity). Using relays to activate the door lock actuators is what you need to do...like Relay49 shows.. Wire up the relays, leaving the trigger wires disconnected. Disconnect one of the door lock switches, test the remaining switch for proper output (switch has lock and unlock outputs). Connect to your added relays, check door lock operation. Reconnect other switch and test. If at any time the door locks operate without either switch being activated, you need to recheck the switch and wiring.   You may want to have the relays negative triggered instead, easier interfacing to some keyless entry systems. Swap the input wire on the switches to ground, rewire relay coils for negative trigger.

Your correct, I have three wires at the switch. But does it make sense that I have a wire with constant power and then another one with power as well? Or should I only have one wire with power and then it alternates power between the other two when switched? Or were you suggesting that the second powered wire may indicate a bad switch or short?

Also I do plan on having a viper remote starter unit with keyless lock system installed. If that's the case should I be going to a Negative switched system instead of the positive power switches? I'm not sure if that means running all new wires to the switches or if I will be able to salvage some of them.

There should be one wire with power. When button is pressed, there should be respective output on "lock" or "unlock" wire. Yes, second wire with power would be improper connection, short, bad switch. Should be able to cut existing power wire, tape off vehicle (12 volt) side. Connect switch side to ground which will give negative outputs.

Awesome thanks. I'll try and track down why that one wire is powered / hot when it shouldn't be and work backwards from there. Hadn't considered that I would just need to cut the one hot wire and ground it instead of running three new wires to each door.

Are negative switches the recommended method when wiring these systems? Any suggestion which relay diagram to follow if I move to the three wire negative wire?