Viper 5305V, Door Lock Actuators, Relay, Troubleshooting

Hey Everyone,

I recently purchased a Viper 5305V with 2 InstallGear Universal Car Power Door Lock Actuators 12-Volt Motors(2 wire). I can't for the life of me figure out if I need these to go to a relay or do I just splice the three wire coming from the brain to both doors? This is for a 1994 civic VX that never had any power windows/locks.

If you aren’t adding door switches then you will need 2 relays wired as described in the following link. https://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagram4.html

If you are adding door switches then the circuit will be slightly different. Do not connect the actuators directly to the viper alarm outputs. The outputs are only a 1/2 amp each and you will overdraw and burnout those outputs without added relays.

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Steve G

This may help you too. Don’t worry that relay terminals 85 & 86 are wired different between the 2 diagrams. It can be wired either way. I would not use the red 12v wire from the 3 pin alarm lock/unlock harness to power the relays https://shieldtechsecurity.com/support/diagrams/vehicle/TechDoc%203961%20-%20ADDING%20DOOR%20LOCK%20ACTUATORS.pdf

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Steve G

Thank you so much for the insight!

1. Would that mean 2 relays for each actuator? or can I splice the both together and then connect to the relays?

2.I know you mentioned not to use the 12v red on the alarm to power the relay, is it best to tap straight to the battery or splice in to a constant 12v source thats on the car?

1 both actuators can be tied together in parallel so they will operate simultaneously.

2 constant source can be from the white constant 12v found in the ignition harness or also the battery if you prefer. Battery is not necessary though but putting a fuse is a must.

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Steve G

iskidoo,

Thank you very much for your help and guidance. It is much appreciated!

Glad to help. I hope it all turns out well. :)

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Steve G

easier way would be to buy a dei 451m relay pack, plug it into the viper brain, run the purple purple/black to constant power, white/black and brown/black to ground and green and blue as your lock/unlock output to the actuators. It will run up to 2 safely

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33 years as a installer now just a retired old guy. Favorite thing to install/topic are remote starts/car alarms. Stop using test lights!!!

Hello everyone,

I recently installed this and first timer. This is for a 94 civic vx and with aftermarket actuators. I got the arm and disarm to work and have tested if I open the door or hood when armed the alarm goes off. Problem now is the led light on the antenna is blinking a code of 6. I didnt connect anything for accessories but basically I just wanted a keyless entry for now and no remote start so ive only connected the following below. I bought this alarm on offerup and wasnt used from the looks of it. Didnt know if I need to do anything else program wise? Even after disarming that damn led is still flashing that code of 6 flashes

Main harness

Red
White
Brown
Black

24pin

Green - door trigger
Gray - hood

3 pin
Blue - to lock relay
Green - to lock relay

Thank you!

Cycle the ignition on/off and try again.

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

I dont have the pink wire from the remote harness going to the ignition and I dont have any wire going to the ignition? I figured since im not doing remote start I dont need it?

I only have something going to the constant 12v from the alarms main 5 pin harness

I think since the alarm was set off with the hood switch, it'll report that until the ignition is cycled. The pink wire is both an input and an output.
It's best to connect it anyways since it's also used for programming (along with the door trigger).

I understand you don't care about the remote start. Do you want to use the alarm features too, or just use it as a keyless entry?

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

Is it usually only the pink wire that needs to go to ignition?

Basically only want the car to work as basic alarm with keyless entry. Everything works, but when I went to test the hood (armed it with pin down and released pin the alarm went off) now the led wont stop flashing. It makes sense that you need to cycle the ignition.

Thanks for your help!

Yes, the pink wire.

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

So I hooked up the pink wire to Black/yellow which is ignition but it doesnt seem to cycle? I also see that there is a pink wire with a white line and says ignition 2. Does this also need to be connected? If so would I just put it together on the ignition black/yellow?

If you're only doing alarm and not remote start, the pink wire is ignition input/output. You don't need to connect ignition 2.

What do you mean it doesn't cycle? If you disarm, turn the key on to ignition then back off, and rearm, is it still blinking 6 times?

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

Yes still blinking 6 times to signify the hood was opened and the alarm went off. Only way I can get it to clear is pull the ground on the battery

When you arm, do you get one chirp, and then a few seconds later get another chirp?

Something else you can try is entering valet mode. Turn the ignition on then off. Press and release the valet button (button on the antenna) once. If the LED is solid, it's in valet mode and that tells us your ignition wire is working properly. To exit valet, just repeat the process.

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

When I arm it will beep once but when I disarm it will beep three times and show the even that happened. Ill go ahead and try valet mode when I get home.