Viper 5706V in 1974 Plymouth Barracuda RetroMod

I am building an old Barracuda with a 392 Hemi crate motor (same motor as 2018 Scat Pack Challenger).

I have the starter isolated on a separate button, so I turn the key to run, then hit the button to start the car.

I think I figured out the many power wires required, but it seems odd that I am connecting 3 wires to 12V+ Ignition (Run). Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I have connected the Red, the Red/Black, and the Pink to Ignition (key in run position).
I have connected the Green to the hot side of my start button.
I have connected Violet to the starter relay.
I left the rest of the wires open.

Does this seem correct?

Remote Start Harness from the Quick Start Guide:
1 NC No Connection
2 RED/BLACK (+) FUSED 12V ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT
3 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT #87a key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY
4 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT #30 of FLEX RELAY
5 RED (+) FUSED 12V IGNITION 1 INPUT
6 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER DISABLE)
7 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER DISABLE)
8 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT
9 RED/WHITE (+) FUSED 12V IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87
10 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT

The RED/BLACK, RED, & RED/WHITE are battery feeds. PINK is for ignition circuits, ORANGE is for accessory circuits, PINK/WHITE is selectable (IGNITION or ACCESSORY). The starter wires are correct.

392cuda wrote:

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I have connected the Red, the Red/Black, and the Pink to Ignition (key in run position).

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The Red and Red/Black go to 12v battery positive (always hot)

Everything else looks good.

I appreciate the help.

After trying a few times, I got it out of manual transmission mode, but now it throws the 8-click error (parking brake).

I tested my parking brake switch (it works) and have tried both open and ground for the parking brake wire. No dice. Still just 8 clicks.

Any ideas? I used to install these for Best Buy in high school. It’s been a while, but I don’t remember ever having trouble like this.

You don't connect to the parking brake on automatic transmission installs. Just connect the black/wire neutral safety wire to ground. Make sure the remote start shutdown switch is plugged in and turned on. If you're using "tach" engine checking mode make sure you have a tach input hooked up (either w2w or d2d) and have the tach learned.

I appreciate the help!

My 5706V did not come with a shutoff switch. The pins that would have been used for that are blocked off as well.
I set it for no tach in menu 3
I grounded the black/white.

I still get the 8 clicks, indicating a parking brake error.

Any other ideas?

Does anyone have additional info on these error codes?

Blocked off? How so? The pins for the switch have to connect together electrically or the remote start won't work. It's actually part of the neutral safety circuit so it generates the same error as not having the black/white grounded.

It is the same plastic material as the box itself. It does not come off easily.

I wouldn't believe if I didn't see it. I've never seen this blocking off of the remote start shutoff switch or the switch itself not in the box with the module and harness bits. Where did you pickup this 5706v? I have to wonder if it's genuine new or something else.

Maybe someone else can comment if they have ever experienced this lack of a shutdown switch and port to plug it in on a genuine DEI unit. It's listed in the manual for this model and even newer systems so I highly doubt the idea they did away with it at anytime.

Assuming your unit doesn't employ the shutdown switch and it's not a fluke that the port is blocked. The only idea I have left for your error code is the old unplug and replug fix it routine that everyone tries on everything electrical. So unplug it from power and replug it in and if your lucky that'll fix it. Failing that I do suspect this missing port and switch to be your issue, which calls in to question whether this a clone knockoff unit improperly done. I'd be tempted to take the unit apart and see what things look like inside and on the board. I'd also be comparing the entire unit to other genuine DEI units to look for evidence of it not being an authentic DEI product.

I've run into this before. You could have two systems with the same model number and one might have it and the other not. You could always add a toggle switch to the neutral safety wire if you want that feature.

Just to add to what catback suggested, when you unplug the main unit, you can short the constant and ground pins together using a jumper wire. Then plug it back in and try again.

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

geepherder wrote:

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I've run into this before. You could have two systems with the same model number and one might have it and the other not. You could always add a toggle switch to the neutral safety wire if you want that feature.

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Honestly, it smells like a low cost chinese knockoff - they revel at removing parts that are not absolutely necessary in order to reduce production costs. Which is fine if the unit is cheap AND works - the switch is really only useful for disabling the remote start when a mechanic is going to be working on the car with the battery connected and the hood closed or hood open and the hood pin switch faulty.

This reminds me of another recent thread (Viper 5305V Trunk Release Negative Output Problem, 1990 Ford Mustang) where the person couldn't get enough negative output from the trunk release wire to actuate the trunk release relay. Ended up using another aux output and a darlington transistor setup just to get enough boost to the signal to operate the trunk release relay which is typically around 160mA to activate - something that should be easy for the trunk release output to do without aid. I wouldn't be surprised if that unit was a low budget chinese special. I hope it is or that the output was damaged by a installer at some point, I'd hate to see DEI's quality going that far down the toilet.

I appreciate all the help, guys!

I tried resetting it and had the battery on/off several times. I also noticed now the remote seems to have frozen.

I looked back at the product image on Amazon's site and see it should have had the toggle switch (and pins for it).

I complained to amazon and they were able to refund me for the item.

I may just pick up a Carberry Pi and program the damn thing myself. I certainly could have already, given the amount of time I spent trying to troubleshoot this one.