2003 Chevrolet S-10 Remote Start Wiring Issue

Hey all this is my first post here. I'm hoping someone can shed some light on the issue that has arose. I have recently took on another remote starter install in my sons s10. I have done many of these over the years and much more complicated. This is the problem we are having. Everything works. The vehicle starts with remote and shuts down with remote and brake when tested. The door locks work as well from the remote.

The 1st issue we have is that when the vehicle is off and key is out there are a few indicators in the dash that stay on. The battery light, The PNDR21 indicator and odometer stay on. This is the exact same stuff that stay on when the key is in accessory position.

What I've tried. I have found that by taking off the 2nd Ignition wire from the RS module(Green Wire) that is attached to the small WHITE wire at the ignition harness the lights disappear but then we end up having the sluggish driving issues that everyone talks about when only using one of the two ignition wires. It is almost like an internal relay is not opening in the RS module cutting power to the ignition wire when the vehicle is off.


The 2nd issue is that the relay for the parking lights in the RS module as well is not working. I can not hear it click as I have in the past with other remote starts I've tackled in the past. For the parking lights I wired the fused yellow(+/-)+12V Parking Light Output wire from the RS module to the light blue at the dash relay next to the fuse block. I had even tested with a meter that when the parking light switch was turned on I was receiving 12V at that light blue wire. I can see when using the hood switch or antenna APAB button that when there is flashing the parking lights do not but antenna shows the flashes.

Below is the way I wired this starter.

The remote starter is a ProStart CT-4211TW and the DIRECTED DB3 bypass module which was programmed for a 2003 Chev S10.


From Remote Start Wiring Harnesses:

6 PIN:
Fused Red - 12V Supply on ignition harness Red/White wire
Purple - Starter wire at ignition harness(small yellow)
Fused Red#2 - 12V supply at ignition harness RED wire.
Yellow- 1st Ignition wire at ignition harness PINK wire
Orange - Accessory wire at ignition harness ORANGE wire
Green - 2nd Ignition wire at ignition harness WHITE wire

5 PIN:
Black- Chassis Ground factory ground bolt
Purple- Tach Input soldered to DB3 Bypass module Tach Output WHITE wire
Gray- Hood switch
Orange- Brake switch Input goes to WHITE wire at brake switch.

3 PIN:
Gray/Light blue- programmable Aux 2 O/P - NOT USED
Blue/White - programmable Aux 1 O/P - NOT USED
Yellow/White- 500mA Negative ignition O/P Parking Light O/P - NOT USED

NOTE: This at first only had the one wire Yellow/White attached to the light blue parking light wire as I initially thought this was the one to be used. Now this harness is not even plugged into the unit.

12 PIN: NOT USED as I am using the D2D DB3 module to control locks. This harness is not even plugged into the unit.


DB3 BYPASS MODULE:

Connector 10:

Pink(+) Ignition Input- Ties to same point as Ignition #1 wire(Yellow Wire) from remote start to the PINK wire at ignition harness.
Violet(+) Starter Input- Ties to the same point as the Starter wire(Purple wire)to the (small YELLOW wire) at the ignition harness. Note that this is the small yellow wire that only has 12V when in the crank position.

Connector 12:

RAP OFF O/P Black/White - Ties to the tan wire on purple plug at BCM Pin B4.
TACH O/P Violet/White- Soldered to purple Tach I/P wire from remote start.
R Code O/P Violet/Green- yellow wire on ignition cylinder
R Code O/P Violet/Brown- same as other R Code wire to the yellow wire on ignition cylinder.
NOTE: For the above R CODE wires I soldered them both in the same place back away from the ignition cylinder at the same wire going up the steering column with the rest of the wires.

Connector 14:

Violet/Yellow- wire that goes to the OBD pin 2 VIOLET wire

Connector 4:

D2D wire 4 wires blue,black,green and red. wire harness gooes from the RS module red connector to white connector on DB3 Bypass module.

I have now unplugged both units and curled up the wires so he can drive the truck without worrying about the vehicle sitting with the ignition on in the accessory position when not in use killing the battery till we figure out whats wrong. I had this unit since last Christmas and we just put it in now. So the chances of them taking the unit back if faulty is slim to none. Probably slim to none regardless as it was installed and not by a certified installer. For now I have purchased the other model CT-4311TW. Seems to be the same module just different keyfob. And was on sale. May have to just try another module?

Sorry for the novel but really scratching my head on this one. Any help is appreciated and thanks in advance!!!

For the parking lights, make sure that the jumper is set to (+) parki light output otherwise you wil not hear the internal relay.

For the lights staying on, try this.... remove the GREEN wire and use a jumper wire ( for testing purposes ) between the factory PINK wire and the factory WHITE wire. Now remote start the vehicle and do the take over with the key and see if problem persists. If it does not persist, then you have an issue woth the ProStart and at this point, go back to CT for warranty if you still have any. If problem does not go away, you have something else deeper that is the issue and requires more information.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Great! Your timing couldn't have been any better. I am actually digging into this right away. I bought another starter in case. The parking lights I was able to find out that there is the little blue jumper. No where in any of the installs does it show positive position or negative position. Factory it is set in the neutral position across the top horizontally looking at it. I have to determine which spot left or right side vertically it goes as there are no markings or indications in any manuals. I am just going to try it in one position wires with the parking light wire unhooked and see which position sends the positive signal.

As for the adding the jumping for testing purposes. The problem is when the vehicle is completely off and key is removed. The vehicle sits in the state of as if the key was in, and one click forward in the accessory position. Radio, heater nothing else comes on. Just some sounds under hood, maybe relays and the odometer/transmission position lighting and battery cluster light. Prostart thought was to wait for delay to turn off or open door would cancel this but that is not the case. If I pull off the 5th relay while sitting in this position it dissapears. But of course that is no good as it is impairitive to have that 2nd ignition wire hooked up. It's almost like the 5th relay is not opening when the vehicle shuts down with key or with remote start shutdown using brake or fob.

Cheers

When the problem is there with the power staying on, does this happen when the ProStart is connected? Does this happen when the ProStart is disconnected?

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Hi bluearc…..parking lights jumper should be in the vertical right hand position (when looking at it) for positive (+) output. Can you confirm that there is +12V present at 6 pin green (5th relay) when vehicle is off (key out), r/s is hooked up but not active? Al