2010 Honda Civic LX, CM7200 Remote Start Install

Never installed a remote start system, but I've rewired basically an entire engine harness for a motor swap in my e30, so I'm familiar with and reasonably confident with vehicle wiring... that being said...

I don't need anything but remote start - I have a one button remote, so door lucks and such aren't needed, I'll just use the OEM Key Fob.

I'm in the middle of installing this in a 2010 civic and I'm a little confused at what all needs to be connected at the ignition harness. The wiring schematic lists 8 wires for the CN1:

1 - Red - [12V Constant] - Spliced with #3 and spliced into white wire at ignition harness (done)
2 - Green/White - [Default Parking Light] -From what I've read the civic uses a (-) parking light, so as of now this wire isn't connected to anything
3 - Red/White - [12V Constant] - Spliced with #1 and spliced into white wire at ignition harness (done)
4 - White - [Default Accessory] - Going to connect this to the orange wire on the ignition harness
5 - Blue - [12V Selectable (Default Ignition2)] - Is this accessory 2? Should it be connected to the Red wire at the ignition harness?
6 - Yellow - [12V Starter] - Spliced into yellow wire at ignition harness (done)
7 - Green - [12V Ignition] - Spliced into blue wire at ignition harness (done)
8 - Black - [Ground] - Ring terminal crimped onto CN1 wire and bolted to ground location under the dash

1 - Red - [12V Constant] - Spliced with #3 and spliced into white wire at ignition harness (done)
    Correct. Try to keep the distance of the single power wire after it's splice to a minimum.
2 - Green/White - [Default Parking Light] -From what I've read the civic uses a (-) parking light, so as of now this wire isn't connected to anything
    Correct, not needed if you are using the (-) Parking Light wire at the Headlight switch connector.
3 - Red/White - [12V Constant] - Spliced with #1 and spliced into white wire at ignition harness (done)
    Correct. Again keep the lone wire travel to the +12V supply short.
4 - White - [Default Accessory] - Going to connect this to the orange wire on the ignition harness
    Correct, goes to ACC1 Orange.
5 - Blue - [12V Selectable (Default Ignition2)] - Is this accessory 2? Should it be connected to the Red wire at the ignition harness?
    Correct. It is selectable via an internal jumper. Move jumper to the ACC position and connect to the Red ACC2 wire.
6 - Yellow - [12V Starter] - Spliced into yellow wire at ignition harness (done)
    Correct.
7 - Green - [12V Ignition] - Spliced into blue wire at ignition harness (done)
    Correct
8 - Black - [Ground] - Ring terminal crimped onto CN1 wire and bolted to ground location under the dash
    Correct

What are you using as a bypass module?

-------------
Soldering is fun!

I'm using the Blade AL. I think I have the wiring for that all figured out, however my other questions are the CN3 and CN5 connectors. Does the CN3 need to be hooked up to anything? also for the CN5, for the green/white wire #17, that gets connected to pin 11 (gray) wire on the headlight control connector correct (based on other posts I've seen you make)? The only other wires on CN5 I believe I need to hookup are the tach, horn, and brake? (also based on previous posts by you - HUGE help, I wouldn't have even tackled this myself without your posts on this forum)

The Blade AL will work well. It must be flashed with the DL-HA2 firmware.
Hopefully you have the capability to do that.

On the CM7200-s, CN3 won't be used. You either use the High Current CN1
or the Low Current CN3 harness on any given install.

There will be a few wires necessary on the CN5 harness. If you look at
the Blade AL w/HA2 chart on Page 2 on the Install Guide you will see
which functions are handled by the Blade. In this application it does
not supply a Tach Signal or the Foot Brake signal. Those connections
must be made manually. It will supply the Hood Pin Status if the car
has a Factory Hood pin installed, usually as part of the Factory Alarm
system. Test to find out.
So CN5-4 is required. CN5-16 is needed if there is no Factory Hood Pin
switch. CN5-18 would be connected to a Tach signal. I always go with
Tach Mode for reliable engine starts without over-crank. CN5-17 would
be used for the (-) Parking Light connection. If you wanted a Horn
Output, you would need the OP-500 Programmer to re-assign one of the
unused POC's. ( Although you might be able to do it when you flash
the Blade AL cartridge.) That should do it.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

---

The Blade AL will work well. It must be flashed with the DL-HA2 firmware.
Hopefully you have the capability to do that.

---

I don't currently have the capability, but it looks like I just need the adapter (ADS-USB) that plugs into the CM7200 and communicates with my laptop correct?

Correct. It's called the ADS USB cable and goes for around $40. With it you can also
update the CM7200 firmware and set some its' programming options when you flash the Blade-AL.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Any suggestions for the cleanest install of the tach wire? I'd hate to just run a wire over the engine valve cover and splice it into an injector wire. I was looking for wiring diagrams to see if there was anywhere inside the car where I could run it, or even at the ECM which is closer to the firewall/fender (probably run it with the trunk release cable through the grommet) but I couldn't find an ECM pinout anywhere to see what pins the injector wires were terminated at.

One last question, where are people mounting the remote start module, I couldn't seem to find a good flat spot to mount it anywhere that allowed each harness to have gradual bends in the wire. I've been looking for pictures all over the internet, but everyone seems to leave that part out of their DIY's.

I usually take the easy route with the Tach wire and run it directly
to a F.I. or sparkplug coil. I use 1/4" split loom tube to make the
run from the firewall to the connection point and follow other harness
runs. There should also be a good wire at the ECM under the hood.

With wires coming out of both sides of the CM7200-s it's had to not
get some quick bends in the harnesses. I usually find a nice spot
that is close enough to everything but away from heater vents and any
movement ( steering column, brake pedal, emergency brake, etc ). I
use tie wraps through the molded openings to secure it to a solid
protrusion.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

---

Correct. It's called the ADS USB cable and goes for around $40. With it you can also
update the CM7200 firmware and set some its' programming options when you flash the Blade-AL.

---

Is the OmegaLink OL-LOADER identical to the ADS-USB? I can't tell but it looks like it is. I can get the Omegalink a little cheaper and delivered tomorrow on amazon, vs a few days for the ADS-USB

https://www.amazon.com/EXCALIBUR-Omegalink-Dedicated-Interface-OLLOADER/dp/B00DS7C0E6/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ADSUSB&qid=1574339128&sr=8-4

I believe it will work but I'm not 100% sure. I have a couple of official ADS USB cables and I can flash
ADS and Audiovox modules. I've never tried any Omega ( iDatalink OEM ) modules. I have tried using the
ADS USB cable to flash an Omega Blade AL in a Compustar FT7200-s without success.


-------------
Soldering is fun!

so I hooked everything up, got the antenna wired and wanted to test it out before I start tucking wires away and buttoning up all the removed interior panels, but for some reason I can't get the Blade-AL programmed to the car.

I tried the sequence in the guide - ignition on and wait for red LED to turn to blue, however it never turned to blue. I tried multiple times with the same result. I doubled checked, and I have the Blade-AL flashed with firmware COM-BLADE-AL(DL)-HA2 (1.6).The CM7200 is flashed with CompuStar Firmware: CM7200 V3.57.

To confirm my setup, all the wires are connected per the above:

CN1
1 - Red - Spliced with #3 and spliced into white wire at ignition harness
2 - Green/White - no connected to anything
3 - Red/White - Spliced with #1 and spliced into white wire at ignition harness
4 - White - Spliced to orange wire on ignition harness
5 - Blue - Spliced to red wire at ignition harness
6 - Yellow - Spliced into yellow wire at ignition harness
7 - Green - Spliced into blue wire at ignition harness
8 - Black - Ring terminal crimped onto CN1 wire and bolted to ground location under the dash

CN3
Not plugged in

CN4
Connected per the Blade-AL(DL)-HA2-EN Install Guide

CN5
4 - Spliced into brake switch light green wire
16 - I did not wire this to anything (yet)
17 - Spliced into gray wire at headlight switch connector
18 - spliced into yellow wire at fuel injector 1 (first injector from right to left, back of engine)

CN6
Not plugged in

CN7
Not plugged in

CN8
Not plugged in

CN9
Plugged into antenna mounted to windshield

CN10
Not plugged in

CN11
Not plugged in

CN12
Not plugged in

CN13
Not plugged in

CN14
Not plugged in

Green/White loop inside CM7200 cover is cut (vehicle is automatic)

Any ideas why it's not communicating (install guide said solid red means it's waiting for vehicle information)? I read some thread for a 2008 civic that when the firmware was updated the wiring configuration was changed, could that be the case? How would I roll back the CM7200 firmware, or the Blade-AL firmware?

Verify that the CN4 Blade White/Black and White/Red wires are on the correct sides of the cut wire.
Do a Blade Factory Reset as per Page 11 of the guide and then try vehicle programming.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

10-4, I'll double check when I get home from work, will I have to re-flash the Blade after the factory reset? Also while looking through the install guide, I noticed the following:

It says on page 3:
Ground When Running from Remote Starter must be provided BEFORE Ignition.Failure to comply may result in immobilizer bypass malfunction during remote start.

and also on the type 3 wiring diagram:
STANDARD 12 VOLT, GROUND, AND IGNITION SWITCH CONNECTIONS ARE STILL REQUIRED FROM THE REMOTE STARTER.

I'm assuming all those are taken care of from CN1?

Yes, the FT7200-s does provide GWR to the Blade cartridge with the correct timing.

Yes again, the thick ignition wire connections are needed and your listed connections are correct.
Just make sure that the Selectable Ignition wire jumper is set to ACC. Factory Default is IGN.

No, you won't have to re-flash the Blade-AL after a Factory Reset. I always do a Factory Reset
after the firmware flash and prior to actual vehicle programming.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

cut doens't matter, as that just keeps the keyless active during remote start.. what matter is where the you have the pink ignition wire. you must have it on the vehicle side. My money is it's on the key side... or you have the wrong SWC wire, count the pins, don't go by color.

kreg357 wrote:

---

Verify that the CN4 Blade White/Black and White/Red wires are on the correct sides of the cut wire.
Do a Blade Factory Reset as per Page 11 of the guide and then try vehicle programming.

---

silvercivicsir wrote:

---

cut doens't matter, as that just keeps the keyless active during remote start.. what matter is where the you have the pink ignition wire. you must have it on the vehicle side. My money is it's on the key side... or you have the wrong SWC wire, count the pins, don't go by color.

---

so the issue was the wires for the Honda bypass connector. There are tiny little numbers that are numbered reverse of what the Blade-AL says. So on the Honda connector the pins are numbered from left to right - 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1 vs the Blade-AL manual being 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7. I uncrimped the cn4 harness to the previous wires and spliced them into the correct 2, 3, 4 wires and everything works perfectly.

Thanks a ton Kreg357 and Silvercivicsir, without this forum I'd be knee deep in a river of doodie. I appreciate everything.