Viper 160xv Remote Start, 2001 Toyota Corolla

I have a 2001 Toyota Corolla that has a Viper 160xv remote start that was installed by Best Buy about 12 years ago. This car does not have any kind of factory remote. This remote is only for starting the engine and locking/unlocking the doors. The Viper had always worked flawlessly until a few days ago. I pressed the fob to remotely start my car, the car lights flashed normally and I assumed the car started. I came out about 5 minutes later and the engine was not running. I thought that was weird because I follow the same routine 5 days a week during the winter so I know it had not been running long enough to shut itself off. I put the key in the ignition and nothing! Now my car will not attempt to start with the key or using the Viper remote fobs. The starter relay is not getting 12v to energize the relay coil. Also the Viper fob(s) will no longer lock/unlock the doors. I checked the three larger wires that go to the ignition, the two red ones have 12v always whetheror not key on or off, the red/white never has voltage regardless of key position (voltage checks were made using the negative side of the battery for ground). I even tried unplugging all the connectors to the brain box and the car sill will not attempt to start. If I jumper the power pins in the relay base the starter will turns over. I know the 160xv is an older system but I’m hoping someone here can help.

It should be under warranty if you take it back to Best Buy. I would have them take a look at it.

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Steve G

did you check the fuses on the viper? that would be the 1st thing i look at.

The car will not start it would have be towed to Best Buy. also the system is at least 12 years old .
Yes I have checked the fuses.

Have you checked the battery for loose/corroded terminals/connections? Have you verified proper voltage from the battery? How about your grounds?

Is there any change when you put the alarm in valet mode?

What happens when you turn your key to ignition? Do your instrument cluster lights come on? Do you hear the fuel pump prime?

What happens when you turn to start? Does it just not crank? If it does not crank, have you tried bypassing the starter relay with some needle nose pliers? With the key in the ignition position, pull the relay and identify terminals 30 and 87 and jump their corresponding female terminals in the relay socket. (You could also bend a paper clip and hold it with a pair of pliers, etc.)

If the engine starts, you likely either have a bad relay, or no signal to the relay for it to engage. This could be due to the starter kill relay.

If the engine does not crank, verify you have power to the relay with a meter (check your fuses).

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

I know the start relay coil is not getting 12v to close the contacts. If i jump the power output sockets in the relay base the starter turns which rules out battery side issues. Trying to start with the key I get nothing from the starter. I do have dashboard lights, I have not listened for the fuel pump The problem has to be something that is common to both the regular ignition key start and the remote start. I leaning towards something in the ignition switch.

If it were the ignition switch, remote start would still likely work. Have you metered the starter wire at the ignition switch during cranking? How about during a remote start sequence?

Oh yeah, assuming this is an automatic, have you also tried starting in neutral?

Does the car start and run when you jump the relay socket out with the key in the ignition position?

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

Starter turns the engine over when I jumper the relay but the car does not crank up and run. I have not checked for 12v at the ignition because I don’t know which wire. According to the Best Buy tech the remote “brain box” gets its power from thru the ignition. It is an automatic an I have tried neutral with the brake on.

There is a vehicle wiring section on this site. If you scroll to the top of the page over on the right. Select your vehicle. It'll give you wire colors and location. Also check bulldog security:

https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.aspx

If you have a fuel pressure gauge, now is the time to use it. Turn the key to ignition and check your fuel pressure. Some people might just push the valve core on the fuel pressure test port. If you do this, be aware fuel could spray throughout the engine compartment.

Also, check for any codes as well. This might give you a better indication of where your problem lies.



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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

would fuel pressure be an issue If the engine will not crank over when I turn the ignition switch? Is there a switch or something that is monitoring the fuel pressure that keeps the starter relay from getting power?i I’m pretty certain it’s something electrical and I still think it’s in the ignition area.

I was updating my most recent post when you posted.

You should verify proper voltages at the ignition switch. However, I also think you should know the extent of your issue since it still didn't start when you bypassed the relay.

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

I definitely agree with you that I will have to work thru ALL the “no start” issues so I am trying to tackle them one at a time. The first thing is to get the engine to attemp to start when I turn the key by getting power to the control side of the start relay. Thanks for the wiring diagram links.

Maybe they installed ignition kill relay in addition to starter kill.

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Steve G

You probably already have this but here’s a link just in case.
https://www.the12volt.com/addfile/files.asp?s=1373631&f=160XV+IM%2Epdf

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Steve G

Iskidoo I had not seen that installation guide before, thanks. The Best Buy tech said he doesn’t think there would be an ignition kill relay

Problem solved, it was poor troubleshooting on my part😖. I “thought “ I had checked all the fuses under the hood and inside the car, if I did I somehow missed that there was a 15amp fuse under the hood that was blown. I can’t say enough good things about Jeremy at Best Buy in Knightdale NC, he was extremely helpful, willing to take time over the phone to lead me to the problem. I spoke with him three or four times over the course of two days, he was very patient and extremely knowledgeable about how the remote was connected. He guided me on where to probe the remote harness and then he looked up the wiring for my Toyota and told me basically where I was losing the voltage that powered both the remote start “brain” and the regular key start function. End result is I went back at Jeremy’s request and probed the fuses again this time checking for voltage rather than continuity and found the bad fuse.