Trouble with Autostart and 2005 Mazda Tribute Door Locks

You probably heard this a million times, but "I'm beyond frustrated and begging for help." Anyways, thanks so much for making it this far in which is about to get into the thick of things.

I purchased a Prostart up here in Canada (same as Autostart, Polar Start, etc) to replace an aging Canadian remote start called 'Titan' because both fobs have issues and it's an ancient one-way. Long story short.... I cannot for the life of me get the door locks working properly, well, the 'unlock' side of things anyways.

I have a 2005 Mazda Tribute (same as Ford Escape) and it does have a OEM alarm or deluxe locking(I think). The previous system had the lock/unlock wires tapped into the WHITE/green and DARK BLUE/green wires behind the kick panel. I never had prior lock/unlock problems asides from the fob buttoms failing. The Autostart has two negative Lock and Unlock wires which I matched up to the aforementioned OEM arm/disarm wires... the locking would be okay, but the unlock failed. Next, I tried the Autostart's two negative Arm and Disarm wires to no avail.I'm at wit's end with this. I hate asking for help, but I already spent hours on the install and more hours scouring the web for solutions which always seemed to bring me to this highly knowledgeable site thus registering and blabbering forth.

To show I'm not a lazy person, after a full site scan, I found only these informative threads discussing the lock/unlock which unfortunately didn't rescue me...

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=19439 (wondering about the lock/unlock module right of the gas pedal?)
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=124746 (disarm to unlock isn't working for Autostart)
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=124746 (basically saying to diode the disarm wire connection)
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=91795&tpn=1 (says to use WHITE/violet instead for lock and arm? Also double pulse for unlock)
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=135376 (saying to use 3 wires?? PINK/white and BLUE/green wires to disarm/unlock while having White/green to arm/lock) - I'd like to try this.

I tried to get this POS Autostart 'programming mode' to see if I could double-pulse the unlock... what a nightmare, couldn't figure it out. It's going to be hard to find that 1K Ohm resistor around town and I don't want to wait an entire month for eBay.

Here's that Autostart's install guide for reference in case some soul would like to walk me through the messy 'programming mode' to attempt a double-pulse for unlock (if actually required): https://www.prostartsystems.com/Docs/CT-4211TW-4311TW_ig_en_h70s62_VM20150821a.pdf

Here's another topic: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=64054&tpn=2 (would it work if I wire Autostart's Arm and Disarm wires to the Tribute's OEM Arm and Disarm whilst running Autostart's Unlock wire to the PINK/white behind the kick panel?

Why not get a Directed 451M Door Lock module? It comes
with a resistor pack that includes a 1K ohm resistor.
Additionally, in case your AutoStart unit doesn't have
internal lock relays the 451M will supply a solid ground
signal. They go for around $11 U.S. There should be
a local 12 Volt shop or even Best Buy that has one
available if you need it faster than mail-order.
Amazon has it for $11.75 U.S. if that works.

I've used the Pink/White one-wire lock wire with
relays in the past with no issues. Here is a link
to the Bulldog Security diagram ( top ) :
https://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/DOWNLOADS/26500_TRIBUTE_MAZDA%20%201%20WIRE%20ALERT%20SHELBY%20UNITS.pdf

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the tip, I'll look into that module or at least track down the seemingly necessary resistor locally from a install shop because I'm fairly sure the Autostart does indeed have internal relays due to the (-) outputs for the Lock/Arm Unlock/Disarm wires.

With the loss of Radio Shack up here in Canada, it sucks having no easy electronic parts store for the hobbyist. :-(

I'm not familiar with AutoStart products but the mere presence of (-) lock outputs does not
necessarily indicate internal relays. Most newer R/S systems have (-) lock outputs but they
are "transistor" type outputs rated at 200 or 250 mA with a few units rated at 500 mA.
The clicking you hear with a R/S lock command is the internal Parking Light relay. When
looking at vehicle wire guides, the inclusion of the phrase "most use relays" on door lock
systems usually translates into "required due to vehicle circuit current needs".

We lost most all of our Radio Shack stores in the states, too. A shame, they were
a good source for various electronic parts. Not cheap but very handy.

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Soldering is fun!

When you mentioned 250 and 500 mA raised some flags... the old system (2008ish) stated in the install guide that the Lock and Unlock outputs were (-) 250 mA. I was racking my brain trying to make sense of how the old system didn't require a resistor to unlock (I went through the entire Lock/Unlock wiring route and I can 100% confirm there was no inline resistor and I highly doubt that old system was customizable as in the way of double-pulsing or onboard gadgetry), but the new system apparently requires a resistor. So, I perused over my Autostart's manual and found the values in the programming chart to be "500 mA" for Unlock/Disarm and Lock/Arm. Could it be that the old system's (-) 250 mA was low enough to sneak by without a resistor for the Unlock? I'm not really proficient in electronics and likely grasping at straws, but in any case, I'll call a large install center tomorrow and see if they'll part with one of those 1K resistors, so to see if I can put this all to rest since it seems that all my vehicle's wiring diagrams mentioned here on the site and some install sites that the 1K resistor on the unlock side is required.

Yeah, RIP Radio Shack. At least you guys still have some locations left. I guess most places are going online and require patience to receive parts. Sigh

Okay, went to an installer shop and jived a 1K resistor from them. I found I had indeed tie in the Unlock and Lock triggers to the PINK/white wire. When the Lock trigger has the 1K inline, the unlock works. I wired the OEM alarm to the Autostart's Arm/Disarm triggers.

Everything is working good... except (since the beginning) every unlock causes the LED in the antenna to constantly rapid flash, then go to 3 rapid flashes after 5 mins. Of course, there's nothing about that in the paperwork. I'm wondering if that's a built-in feature to advertise that the vehicle is unlocked. I'll look into this strange antenna pulsing.

Yes this is normal "quick flashing led" is unlocked, slow flash when lock. Led is not on when ign is present. You can turn off the led if no likey.

Mode 1, Function 5 for LED flashing.

Thanks, mate. I kind of figured that was it a 'courtesy alert' for the user. I just wish Autostart mentioned that in their guides because I wasn't sure what was going on as the previous Titan didn't do that. Takes a load off my mind now, so I can tidy up and pack away the wires as I am officially finished! :-)