Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2013 Nissan Pathfinder R51, Remote Start/Alarm, Lock/Unlock, Immobiliser

Hello Everyone,

I am trying to wire an Avital 5305 remote start/alarm and a 556U immobiliser bypass but I have hit a bump in the install. I just have 2 things left to hook up until it is complete :(

1) I am unable to locate the lock and unlock wiring as I cannot even see them listed in the wiring diagrams that I have from my workshop manual. I know they are negatively pulsed via key fob but I still can't seem to find it. I tried to wire into the lock/unlock button in the dash but the car did not like this. I tried doing it to the door itself, and same result.

2) I am unable to locate which wires I need to use for the immobiliser bypass. My harness has 4 wires which consist of Grey, Black, Violet and Brown. I know that when I snip the Grey in half, the immobiliser will not read my factory key, so I am assuming I have 1 correct wire. I have tried using the black as a second with no luck. I wanted to see if anyone knew whether it is the Violet or Brown for the second wire before I begin to snip them. The Violet and Brown are constant 12+v and the Grey and Black are nothing.

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3) Following on from [2], which method of install should I be doing for the immobiliser bypass? I have tried the ring method with no luck. I have also tried Method 2 and 3 where you splice into the wiring but since I believe I am using the wrong ones, that would explain why my immobiliser isn't shutting down during start up sequence. I know my remote starter works because when I leave the key to the ON position, the car fires straight up, as the factory key has disabled the immobiliser.

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Any help would be appreciated. I have also added pictures of the harness and the install methods.

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2013 Nissan Pathfinder 140KW

Nissan Pathfinder R51 2013 140kw (Spanish) with Regular fob key

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2013 Nissan Pathfinder 140KW

On the 556U, why are you not using the antenna loop? Just secure the key inside the 556U and connect the Red, Black and Blue wires. Make sure the antenna loop is on the outer face of the ignition switch cylinder and hot glue it in place. No wires to cut.

For the door locks, on U.S. market vehicles the wires are found at the BCM behind the instrument cluster on vehicles without anti-pinch power windows. Hopefully your BCM is not secured with those unique fasteners. Here is the info :

POWER LOCK BROWN (-) TEST BY TURNING KEY IN DRIVER'S DOOR BCM behind instrument cluster, black 40 pin plug, pin 34 On models with LF and RF anti-pinch windows, it is lt. blue (double -) at the power window main switch, white 16 pin plug, pin 15.

POWER UNLOCK LT. BLUE (-DOUBLE PULSE) BCM behind instrument cluster, green 40 pin plug, pin 24 On models with LF and RF anti-pinch windows, it is lt. blue (double -) at the power window main switch, white 16 pin plug, pin 15

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Soldering is fun!

I tried using the antenna loop and it would not register it at all. Even in a different type of car that I installed a remote start in I could never get the antenna loop to work and always had to splice into the wiring.

I found a post online that someone says the Grey and Brown wires are the data wires, I know the grey is as I have tried it, so I will try the Brown later, which his a 12+v constant.

I will try to have a look at those. I was struggling to find which exact harness the diagrams are referring to, but after unplugging them all, the door locks stopped working only when I removed this one in the red square. So i am assuming it has to be one of these?

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2013 Nissan Pathfinder 140KW

If you have a R51 with a regular ignition key, then you have a Pathfinder that was last sold as a 2012 U.S. model.
The R52 was the 2013 model in the U.S. Here is the info on that one : If you are right hand drive I guess they are
talking about the drivers door master power window switch. The listed alarm wires will also do the locks.

OEM Alarm Arm LT BLUE (-) POWER WINDOW MAIN SWITCH WHITE 16 PIN CONN, PIN 4
OEM Alarm Disarm RED\WHITE (- DOUBLE PULSE) POWER WINDOW MAIN SWITCH WHITE 16 PIN CONN, PIN 6

Check there for a 16 pin connector and test if the wire color or pin positions give a (-) pulse with the door button.

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Soldering is fun!

On the 556U, are you using the 5305's Dark Blue (-) Status Output as the 556U's Blue Status Input?
Did you try both 556U windings settings, 18 and 60 jumper positions? Basically, if the car will remote start with the key in the ignition, but not turned, without the 556U then you should be able to use the antenna ring, if positioned properly.

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Soldering is fun!

I will try find those wires and test them. Mine has no factory alarm which is why I bought this kit.

Also yes the wires are connected (blue) - However I did not adjust the jumper settings as the manual said to have them both on the 2 position.

The car will no start with the key in the ignition unless it is turned to the ON position. Even the factory key will not disable the immobiliser until the key is turned to the ON position.

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2013 Nissan Pathfinder 140KW

For the R/S, if the rest of your ignition wiring is correct, it should R/S without the 556U, with a key inserted into the ignition cylinder ( not turned ).

If you could post your 5303 to vehicle connections it might help us.

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Soldering is fun!

I will do up a diagram and upload it.

As for the key in ignition. In this model pathfinder the immobiliser does not disable when the key is in the cylinder, only when it is turned to ON, so not even in ACC. Im not sure if this is a newer version of some sort but that is just how it is

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2013 Nissan Pathfinder 140KW

Another issue i just noticed is on my avital unit. There is a constant ground out coming from the unlock wire (blue) but the lock (green) is only triggered when I press the button.

So as soon as the wire touches the unlock wire it unlocks it immediately without pressing any button

Is my unit itself faulty as it should only be grounding when the button is pressed.

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2013 Nissan Pathfinder 140KW

Yes, something is wrong with the Unlock output. It should be similar to the Lock output. I've heard that you can damage them with in appropriate connections. You could try using the Disarm Output. It's not exactly the same functionally as Unlock but should be OK for testing.

On the Immobilizer system, the R/S should duplicate the regular key startup and turn on the chip sensing to see the keys' chip when it outputs the ignition wire outputs. Your Pathfinder should R/S with the 556U unplugged and a key held next top the ignition cylinder or inserted but not turned.

Your vehicle has one Ignition wire, two Starter wires and two Accessory wires. All should be isolated and powered during a R/S. This would require an additional 30/40 Amp SPDT relay controlled by either (-) Starter or (-) Accessory and the Pink/White Flex relay programmed to either Starter or Accessory.

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Soldering is fun!

I will send the shop a message regarding the issue and see what can be done as the unit is a bit useless if i can't unlock

Regarding the rest, it seems that I need to rewire some connections.

I will connect the second starter wire with a 30 SPDT relay as you have suggested.

My only problem is I cannot locate the second ignition wire. Everything suggests that there is a second one (which brings up my dash) but I cannot find it anywhere. Every other post on this forum says it is in the ignition harness plug but mine doesn't have it. All other colours match up apart from that one.

So i believe i have 1 acc wire, 2 ign wire and 2 starter wires. This explains why my dash only shows up when my key is turned to IGN - and since I am missing that second wire, my dash isn't lighting up and therefore my immobiliser isn't reading my bypass module.

I simply don't know where this second ignition wire is :(

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2013 Nissan Pathfinder 140KW

Here is what the main ignition connector looks like for U.S. R51 models :

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There is no IGN2 on U.S. models. Do your wire color and locations match the photo above?

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Soldering is fun!

This is what my harness looks like:

I have:

Green: (+) 12V
Brown: ACC
Grey: Starter 1
Light Green: Starter 2
Red: Ignition 1

Black: - I just assumed was ground (-) as it was black so I never tested it, but could it be possible that this is in fact the second wire since the harness that you have shown does not indicate a GROUND (-)

posted_image

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2013 Nissan Pathfinder 140KW

Possibly, I've never seen a Chassis Ground in a high current ignition connector but I've seen Black wire used for various type wires.

Seems your wiring is very different from U.S. models.

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Soldering is fun!

Ok i will give this one a test tomorrow and see if it is IGN2 or ACC 2 as it is 23:15 now in Australia, QLD.

I was also going to wire the second starter like this with a SPDT:

30: Starter 2
85: 200mA Starter Output (-)
86+87: +12v (Constant/fused)
87a: unused

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2013 Nissan Pathfinder 140KW

Yes, relay wiring is good.

It's almost tomorrow in OZ.... :)

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Soldering is fun!

ALso the pink/white flex relay. I thought that it automatically gets changed depending how it is wired up. Or do I need to program it myself, depending on if i even use it based on that black wire.

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2013 Nissan Pathfinder 140KW

The Pink/White Flex relay comes set as IGN2 as default. You can change it via option programming to ACC2 according to the 5305 manual. Guess it can't be set to Starter2. See Menu 3, Item 6.

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Soldering is fun!

Ok well I will be home in a few hours (at work), I will first test that black wire and confirm whether it is an ACC2 or IGN2.

Ill then do the following:

1) connect the red/white wire to a constant 12v fused source

2) connect the pink/white to either the ACC2 or IGN2 (whatever that black wire is)

3) connect a SPDT relay

4) Remote start and keep a fire extinguisher nearby hahaha

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2013 Nissan Pathfinder 140KW

Also, I'm just a a bit confused on the note that is written here for programming. It says that I need to change the output to siren so that I can program everything properly.

How am I supposed to change it if the chirps aren't there in the first place, or am i misreading what it says?

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2013 Nissan Pathfinder 140KW

I've connected a small 12 volt buzzer to the siren output for programming purposes before, but you could use a test light and watch for flashes.

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

I have my siren connected to the output, but I just understood that instruction that it will not work unless i re-program the output. So how am I meant to do it in the first place if it needs programming to output to siren. Or am I misreading this?

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2013 Nissan Pathfinder 140KW

Catch 22? Sorry, I can't help much. I am not a big DEI user. I have a BitWriter to do all the programming changes.

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Soldering is fun!

Ahh ok.

I just re-read it and I think it is referring to if you disable the alarm feature and then want to program. Therefore mine should instantly chirp as soon as I press the control button.

I did not hook up my horn honk outputs as I didn't want that feature so I just removed that wire.

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2013 Nissan Pathfinder 140KW

I have wired everything in and it all works. The only odd thing is that at times the starter is not disengaging with the remote start.

So it will turn on once normally, then a second time the starter will keep running. It is hit and miss and I have no idea where to begin with this.

Relay is all hooked up as per previous reply and that black cable was in fact my second IGNITION.

I am also running virtual tach, if that makes a difference or not..?

The second problem is that the alarm only goes off when my drivers door is open. I thought all the doors were meant to be connected as one loop?

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2013 Nissan Pathfinder 140KW

Try switching to tach mode. My guess is that will solve your starter engage problem.

Test your door trigger at the Viper. See if you have signal from all doors.

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

Will give that a shot.

I found a wiring diagram and all 4 door triggers are individually triggered so I will buy some diodes and connect all 4 to the single activation input.

Slowly sorting out each issue one by one :)

This forum is incredible

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2013 Nissan Pathfinder 140KW

I tried to find the tach wire form the injector and both of the wires gave me identical readings regardless of throttle or not. Not sure why this is the case.

I have black and white and it is the same on all 4 injectors. Will be buying a new multimeter tomorrow to make sure but yea, both of them were showing the same figures both at idle and at rev.

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2013 Nissan Pathfinder 140KW

Ah, you have the YD25DDTI Turbodiesel engine...

Getting a Tach signal from a diesel can be tricky. No coil packs and the F.I.'s are sometimes burried. Set DMM to 20V AC.
Readings around 0.3 to 2.0 AC are common on gas F.I.'s. Not sure what you'll see on a Diesel. You might try a Cam Position
Sensor. I've had success with them before. If your instrument cluster has a Tach, there might be a wire there coming from the
ECU but you would need some wiring diagrams to sort it out. Short of that, Directed has a Tach Signal Generator Module,
454T, that will work. They go for about $30 in the States.

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Soldering is fun!

I am buying a DMM tomorrow that has TACH readings on it so should be much quicker to find and then i can probe the injector, cam sensor and crank sensor and test my luck. Also i do have a tach gauge in my cluster. Have looked at the wiring diagrams and could not find anything. Will try ask someone locally if they found one.

I am just confused why the remote start is hit and miss. Today i started it 6 times in a row without a problem, and then the 7th time the starter would not disengage.

Could this be due to the smart alternator my pathfinder has? Since virtual tach is reading voltage spikes, the smart alternator will always vary the voltage so could it be giving the car a lower reading and making the R/S think the car has not started yet? Just guessing here.

I have just looked at that module and it is $100 AUD here

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2013 Nissan Pathfinder 140KW

Yes, Virtual Tach has issues, especially with cars that delay alternator output, etc.

You could connect the Tach wire to a possible source ( Cam and Crank sensors ) and try a Tach Learn. The Tach wire is high impedance and very benign, so it won't hurt to try. If it learns OK, give it a bunch of tests to see if it is stable and consistent. This is definitely a soldered wire connection with the wire protected by split tube looming in the engine compartment.

As a temporary work-around, if the average crank time was pretty consistent between cold and hot start-ups, you could go Fixed ( Menu 1, Item 1, Opt 3 ) and set the crank time to a time just longer than average ( Menu 3, Item 4 ).

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Soldering is fun!