Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2010 Honda Civic, Viper 5806 Activation Input

Hello all,

Just want to quickly say how grateful I am for this site, I have been lurking for some time and found this community an incredible resource. Thanks

This past weekend I installed a viper 5806 with the PKALL bypass module in my 2010 civic sport manual transmission.

I am having trouble with the activation input wire. It is my understanding that this is a ground pulse sent to the viper brain to finish the reservation mode sequence ie. driver door lock, correct? I don't have a wiring diagram for the door so I used my DMM and found what I thought was that at a larger green wire at the door/ body connector. Problem is the remote start does not work and there are a few other things I am unsure about so I would like to rule this wire out as the problem.

Any help greatly appreciated. :)

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2010 civic sport

No, the Activation Input is not used for reservation mode. It is used to trigger a R/S. In Manual Transmission Mode yo need all the Door Triggers hooked up and connected to H1/3 (-) Door Trigger. You will need 4 1N4001 diodes.

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Soldering is fun!

Here are all the trigger wires for your car :

All Door Trigger / Dome Light   PINK (-)   BELOW FUSE BOX BLUE 6 PIN CONN, PIN 6

Driver's Front Door Pin   GREEN (-)   DASH FUSE BOX LT GREEN 42 PIN CONN, PIN 37
Pass Front Door Pin   LT GREEN (-)   DASH FUSE BOX LT GREEN 42 PIN CONN, PIN 3
Driver's Rear Door Pin   BROWN (-)   DASH FUSE BOX LT GREEN 42 PIN CONN, PIN 17
Pass Rear Door Pin   GRAY (-)   DASH FUSE BOX LT GREEN 42 PIN CONN, PIN 2

Trunk Pin   BLUE (-)   DASH FUSE BOX LT GREEN 42 PIN CONN, PIN 36
Hood Pin   LT BLUE (-)   DASH FUSE BOX BLUE 21 PIN CONN, PIN 13

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Soldering is fun!

Sorry, was looking at the wrong Viper pin out. The (-) Door Pin wire is Green at Pin 15.

Remember that to run in MT Mode, ou must have the Door. Trunk and Hood Pins connected and viable, must be in Tach Mode with a successful Tach Learn and have the Neutral Safety Input wire connected to the Parking Brake. Here is the info on the Parking Brake signal :

Parking Brake ORANGE (-) PARKING BRAKE SWITCH

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the quick reply. As you can probably tell I am not that proficient with this kind of thing.

I have the parking brake wire hooked up in a different spot than you described. I did a continuity test and got a signal when brake was applied.
Trunk pin hooked up as described. Hood pin wired to aftermarket pin.
I will see if I can run out and pick up the diodes locally.
All Door Trigger / Dome Light PINK (-) BELOW FUSE BOX BLUE 6 PIN CONN, PIN 6 - also gets connected to (-) Door input?

Do I need to use the activation input wire?
What meter reading should I expect when checking the factory arm/disarm wires? I get 12v on the small brown wire and 0 when key is turned in drivers door.

Thanks :)

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2010 civic sport

Check out the procedure to get into Reservation Mode. The Viper needs to see the Parking Brake come on while the engine is running. It watches the Neutral Safety wire.

The All Door Trigger is not needed if the Dome Light comes on with an Unlock command from the Viper remote.

There is a bunch of extra wiring needed for MTS installs to ensure safety.

Did you do a clutch bypass?

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks Kreg,

When you say clutch bypass you mean:
(-)200mA STARTER OUTPUT to ORANGE wire at clutch?

Thanks again for the help, I've got some work to do and It will be a few days until I can get to it, but I will let you know how I make out.

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2010 civic sport

One other question:

"must be in Tach Mode with a successful Tach Learn" Are you referring to changing the programming in the viper Menu 3 Item 2 (Engine checking mode) from Option 1 - virtual tach to Option 4 - Tachometer?

Menu 3 - Remote start
Item Feature Opt. 1 Opt. 2 Opt. 3 Opt.4 Opt. 5+
1 Transmission Mode Manual Automatic
2 Engine Checking Mode Virtual Tach Voltage OFF Tachometer
3 Cranking Time (seconds) 0.6 sec. 0.8 sec. 1.0 sec. 1.2 sec.

I have the tach input connected to the fuel injector

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2010 civic sport

Yes, just Menu 3, Item 2. The default is Virtual Tach and must be changed to Tach.

Menu 3, Item 1 is OK, the default is Manual.

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Soldering is fun!

my understanding was changing the virtual tach to normal tach wasn't necessary.. Yes you have to hook up tach, but once you "learn" tach, the unit automatically switches to Tach from virutal tach.

I believe you are correct on the newer units. I always preset the options with a BitWriter and leave mothing to chance. The unit will definitely give you an error flash code in MTS Mode if you don't run in Tach Mode

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Soldering is fun!

Ok, so I have had a chance now to make a few corrections. But I am still stuck on locating the factory arm/ disarm wires. I think I have found them, but I need to know what to expect when metering the wires. I have a skinny brown wire and a skinny lt green wire (no orange) at the white drivers door plug.

The lt green wire switches from 12v to 0v and stays 0v when key is turned to lock.

Brown wire stays 12v constant then switches to 0v when key is held in the unlock position.

I also looked on the 34 pin connector at the MICU and pin 32 is empty with no orange wire. It seems my car does not have this wire.

Thanks!!

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2010 civic sport

I usually grab those alarm wires at the White 34 pin plug at the backside of the fuse box.
The Lock and Unlock wires are there also.
Arm Orange (-) @ Pin 32
Disarm Brown (-) @ Pin 31

The Arm wire goes from Pink to Orange. The Disarm Brown wire sounds correct. I'd go to the
back of the fuse box and look there for the Arm wire.

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Soldering is fun!

No wire at all at pin 32 on the lt green 34 pin connector at rear of fuse box. Skinny brown wire at pin 31. I wonder why my car is different? In theory I could do without connecting this wire, correct?

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2010 civic sport

Here is a picture of the connector that I think you are talking about. You can see the orange wire next to the brown wire. I don't have this wire

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2010 civic sport

Do you have the Factory Alarm system? My 2006 LX 4 door did. You can test for the alarm system by sitting in the car, closing all doors. Press lock on the factory remote twice, wait a minute and open the drivers door from the inside with the inner handle. Horn should start beeping.

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Soldering is fun!

It won't be an issue if you have the Factory Alarm system and don't connect the Rearm wire to the cars Arm wire. The alarm won't turn on if you lock it with the aftermarket remote. If you want the alarm on, use the Factory FOB or drivers door button on exit.

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Soldering is fun!

Well now I feel pretty stupid. I don't have a factory alarm :)

I just wanted to say a big thanks to everyone for helping me. I have the RS working now.

One last question. I have a pretty weak understanding of how relays work, so I am wondering if anyone could give me the correct wire configuration for the trunk release.

I have the 200mA trunk release output from the viper,

TRUNK RELASE green (+) @ 42 pin connector, pin 20

SPST relay

Thanks!

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2010 civic sport

Another issue solved, no Factory Alarm.

For the Trunk Release using a SPST relay here is a diagram.

posted_image

You supply the relay with a +12V constant power source fused to 10 Amps. This power input goes to Pin 30 and Pin 86. Pin 86 is one side of the relays internal coil and by convention should be (+).
The Vipers Red/White (-) 200mA TRUNK RELASE output goes to Pin 85. This is the other side of the internal coil. When the Viper gets the Trunk Release command from the Viper remote it will output
a 1 second (-) signal that will actuate the relay. With the coil energized, it will make an internal connection between Pin 87 and Pin 30. This allows the +12V at Pin 30 to exit Pin 87. Pin 87
is connected to the Civics TRUNK RELASE green (+) @ 42 pin connector, pin 20. The trunk pops open.

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Soldering is fun!