97 Acura tl remote start frustrations
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=14619
Printed Date: November 09, 2025 at 11:57 AM
Topic: 97 Acura tl remote start frustrations
Posted By: 97acuratl
Subject: 97 Acura tl remote start frustrations
Date Posted: June 08, 2003 at 3:50 PM
ok i just finished wiring up my viper remote start. the problem is that it starts for a split second then dies. i also noticed that the fuse for the parking light wire blows, a few times! but anaways i took the multimeter to the wire and i noticed that there is a little bit of amps goign through it at the parking light position and more at the headlight position. the funny thing is that i cant register any voltage. im sortof lost because that is the wire that the code sheet is telling me. I am using the 555u bypass but im not sure if i got it hooked up right. i just got the blue wire to the remote module and the red to the constant Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.
Replies:
Posted By: 97acuratl
Date Posted: June 08, 2003 at 4:44 PM
ok i got the one wire figured out, now the big problem with the factory alarm is killing my remote start. if anyone has any idea's, the acura TL has a passive alarm
Posted By: Scott35
Date Posted: June 08, 2003 at 5:03 PM
Do you have the factory disarm wire hooked up to your alarm? It is GREEN/ orange(-) in the 20 pin gray connector in the driver's kick panel.
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Tacomacrew
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: June 08, 2003 at 5:03 PM
To DISARM OEM alarm without UNLOCK there is a GREEN/ ORANGE wire in the driver's kick panel that needs to see (-) prior to remote start. It is located in the 20 pin GRAY connector. You will have to remove the driver's kick panel to see this wire.
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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: 97acuratl
Date Posted: June 09, 2003 at 9:54 PM
ok well im sorta confused right now, the situation is now that the car will start for 1.5 seconds then turn off. does that mean I dont need the 555u imobilizer, can i just hook up the -factory disarm/special accessory wire to the GREEN/ ORANGE wire that you are talking about? if so that would make alot of sense. the remote starter also has a rearm wire i think. if I do need the 555u, what wires go to what? out of the 555u is the coil thingy but i dont need that because my key dosent have a chip. the other plug has a red blue and white. red is constant white is not used(i think) blue is hooked to the remote start (i think) any direction would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!!! oh yea, when you say the 20pin connector are you talking about right under the steering colum because there is i think 2 bigger connectors and one smaller one,
Posted By: ViperATC5
Date Posted: June 10, 2003 at 6:25 PM
out of curiosity, which blue wire did you use on the brain to attach to your 555U? make sure that you use the smaller guage blue wire (- status output) and not the heavier guage blue which is a negative instant input trigger. It seems that you are having problems with your 555U. When you remote start, look on the dash and see if the green key immobiliser symbol is either solid or blinking. If the green key indicator is blinking, your 555U is not properly installed
Posted By: ViperATC5
Date Posted: June 10, 2003 at 6:28 PM
also, you said that your key doesnt have a chip, if that is the case, then you do not need the 555U at all. Have you programmed the unit to learn the tach signal coming from your car? An improperly installed U or unlearned tach signal will both cause the car to not stay started.
Posted By: 97acuratl
Date Posted: June 10, 2003 at 9:25 PM
ok i think i got it figured, the guys at the shop thought i needed the 555u but i went somewhere else and they dont think i need it, i think its a problem with the door locks and their security, ill look into it on the weekend. I am going tachless for now and i believe that the dip switch is in the correct place. we'll see if i fry any components on sat probibly, thanks for the help!
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