2007 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Classic, Remote Start Trouble

I have installed about a dozen Ultra starts of various models in my own vehicles over the years. Until now, I have had really good luck. My body type looks like a classic, but the wiring diagram matches the newer body style. I only have one ignition wire(pink). I have verified all 7 of the ignition harness wires to hook up the remote start(1280). I am using an old Fortin INT-SL-PL module and have the two connected through the 4 wire connector. Tach wire on the module goes to the pink ignition wire, purple goes to the OBD pin 2 connector, and tach wire is going to pin A5 on the instrument cluster. I got an AC signal off of that wire and I saw it was a possibility as a connection on a wiring diagram.

My problem is that after I program the module, I can remote start it once. The dashboard tach bounces around and it shuts off like it can't find the tach. It tries three times and then gives me the tach error. Also, the "service 4wd" shows up in my display. If I unplug the bypass module tach wire, tach goes back to normal.   I had tried at the injectors using the non-common wire but then I would get a misfire with the bypass module plugged in.

Lock and unlock work great through the bypass. I just seem to be missing something. I really installed this unit because I had a spare remote start and spare module from a while back and wanted keyless entry to work better than the 5 feet I was getting with the original remotes(even with new batteries).

I appreciate any help you people could give me. Thank you.

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Wherever you go, there you are!

Does your trucks under dash wiring look like this vehicle?
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=133000

Did you power the trucks White IGN2 wire with the U1280's thick White programmable ignition output wire?

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the reply. No. This is not what mine looks like. There are no white wires in the harness at all. Nothing large or small.

This morning I experimented with cutting the tach wire from the bypass module and wired the tach wire from the remote start. It starts and runs now, but throws ABS and service 4wd warnings.

This pickup chassis was made in November of '06, but even though it looks classic, it doesn't have the same wiring as what is listed for a classic. I can only fine ONE ignition wire. I am almost certain that this is where my error is, but it just doesnt' seem to be there. I can post a pic if that would help.

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I took some pics, but I am not sure if I am just to post in the downloads section if it is just pics of the problem or if it more for informational. I don't want to clutter it up.
Mine is a 1280TLXR PRO remote start.

I either put 1280's or 1272's in. Just my vehicles. I don't do this for hire.

Brad

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Wherever you go, there you are!

According to Fortin, ignition 2 is in a different harness:

https://cdn02.fortin.ca/download/61111/evo-all_ig_reg_bi_gm_escalade-avalanche-silver-sierra-h2_j1850_2003-2007_a_61111.pdf

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

Thanks geepherder! I will check that out tomorrow. Will post what I find.

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My vehicle is not configured this way at this 6 pin harness. Pin B in that harness is a very small gauge green wire that doesn't carry positive voltage like ignition should. Pin F is a brown colored wire instead of Orange, but i am using it to power my accessories.



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I am so confused.. it should be pretty obvious if you have a classic / new body style.. as the wiring is completely different.. the new body style, uses thin wires and has a pk3 connector. the old body style uses heavy gauge wires, and you must hook up the 2nd white ignition wire. (my experience it's may not be with the main harness bundle, but usually next to the brown radio accessory wire..

Can you attach a pic of the cluster / main harness?

Since I am new, I have to post in downloads section. Is that correct?

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I found where to do it here. Will work on it right now. Sorry

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These all came out 90 degrees to the left. they were all correct when I uploaded from the computer.

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Where the white wire is in your pic, mine is yellow. It tests positive only in the run position and not the start position.

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Wherever you go, there you are!

That's it! Sometimes ignition 2 doesn't have voltage during crank, but this should be it.

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

I didn't realize that it may not have voltage during crank.

Can't wait to get it finished up.

Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!!

brad

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Wherever you go, there you are!

Why in God's green and gracious earth would they change a wire color? I am certain it is yellow. It is nowhere near white.
Talk about frustrating!
Will post when I have it done today!

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Wherever you go, there you are!

you found it, but it's right next to the brown, you tapped for acessory.. i think it may has discolored and turned yellow

That has to be it. Talk about discoloration!


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I soldered ignition 1 to this wire and then ignition 2 to the pink wire.
Still having the problem of brake light, ABS, and service 4wd light coming on ONLY when I remote start. If I turn the key to RUN, it goes away.

If I unplug my remote start, it of course kills the bypass. But, now, the pickup will not run without the bypass module powered up. I only have the ignition(soldered onto the pink wire) wire and obd2 wire connected. Should Bypass be soldered onto the primary ignition wire(the yellow-White-wire)?

I know I am close, but not sure if it is because of one or both of the above issues


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Wherever you go, there you are!

UPDATE:
I fixed the ABS and service 4WD and brake light warnings.

I am not getting power to circuit 1020, so am getting the transmission codes being sent.

This has to be because I am not connecting my ignition wires correctly. I just don't have many ways to do it wrong. :-)



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Wherever you go, there you are!

It may not matter, but I would connect ignition 1 (blue) to the truck's primary ignition wire (pink) and ignition 2 (white) to the truck's secondary ignition (yellow). Yes, soldering all connections is a good idea.

Have you verified the white wire is still programmed to the default (ignition 2)?

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/589980/Ultra-Start-1280-Series.html?page=3#manual

I didn't find anything on the bypass so I can't help you there.

Have you tested the truck's ignition 2 wire to see if it's getting power during a remote start? If not, I'd do that now. While you're at it check and make sure the other wires are powered when they should be as well.

Are you saying the truck won't start with the key unless the bypass is powered on?

*Just saw your previous post after mine posted. It looks like you're on the right track.

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

I will switch ignition 1 and 2.

The bypass works unless it loses ground(if I unplug ground at remote start. It starts and dies right away.

I don't even quite understand how the bypass module is working as I just have the obd2 and ignition wire connected. IT connects right into the ultra start. It must be taking care of sending the correct voltage that the anti-theft system normally provides with the key.

I did not change the default of the 2nd ignition so I figured it should still be ignition.

So, verify that I am getting power to the wires in question when in RUN position. Correct?

I am running back to the shop tonight to give it another go.

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I got it fixed!

2 separate problems.

1...I had the accessory going to the brown wire, which met test conditions, but needed to be the orange wire, which also met test conditions.
Because I had that switched, I thought the brake, ABS, and 4WD service light were tied to the ignition wire. IT is the accessory wire that powers these things.

So, I put ignition back on the white wire(the one that looks yellow) and all is well with the world.

I have stared 4 times and no codes have been set. I think I am good to solder the rest, clean up the appearance, and re-secure all the wires!

Thank you for your help!!!!

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Wherever you go, there you are!

the accessory wire orange actually powers the blower motor. The brown does the radio.

That makes sense. I knew it was powering something, but it isn't what I wanted. I want heat or AC when I remote start. :-)

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Wherever you go, there you are!