2015 Subaru Impreza, Avital 4105

In stalled the Avital 4105l with a key in the box bypass in a 2015 Subaru Impreza. Programmed the remote and it locks/unlocks the car. But the remote start doesn't even attempt to crank even with the keychip in the ignition. Any ideas?

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AYS

blk/white grounded? hook up and learn tach ?

yes

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AYS

sorry, didnt see the second part of your post. Tach was not, but it wont even try to crank. Im going to try the tach , but I thought that if it didnt even try, its something else

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AYS

Is this a manual or automatic transmission vehicle?

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

Automatic

2 things may give a clue.
1)I left the car overnight and in the morning the battery was dead
2) I don't get any reading on the multi-meter for the starter and ignition wires when I try the remote starter, although I do get when using the regular car key

Thank You for the help

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AYS

Do you have both red power wires connected in the remote start harness? Are both the 30 amp fuses good?

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

yes, tested the with a multimeter

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AYS

You could try doing the shutdown diagnostics. Since it's a one-way system, you wouldn't get an error from the remote.

Say for example, it gives a brake shutdown. Disconnect your connection to the brake wire and see if it remote starts then.

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

will do, thanks

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AYS

installing a remote start in my 2015 Subaru Impreza and cant find 3 wires. All help appreciated. I need the tach wire (preferably in side the cabin),the trunk release wire, and the rear defog. If you know any or all, please help, thanks

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AYS

TRUNK RELEASE     GREEN/RED (-)     in PASSENGER KICK, WHITE 24-Pin Plug, Pin 5
TACH     WHITE, BLACK/YELLOW, BLACK/RED or BLACK/BLUE (AC)     @ ENGINE, BLACK 54-Pin Plug, Pin 51, 52,53 and 54

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~wirewise~ Verify all wiring with your meter before making any connections!

Update: I attached the tach wire, but Im not 100% sure I got the right wire and I only have a multimeter so i dont know how to check it. Now the system tries to start but it doesn't catch. I programmed it to tach wire but maybe I should switch it to voltage or off

Any ideas?

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AYS

We're you able to learn the tach signal?

To test for tach, set your meter to read AC voltage. It might have a "V" with a squiggly line over it. Touch your positive meter lead to your suspect wire and your negative lead to ground. With the engine running, you should see the voltage rise as you rev the engine.

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

Thank you for all the help!

I am now thoroughly confused!

1)When checking the tach wire of the remote with the DMM on AC set to 200V it shows a reading of 30.3 ans when pressing the gas it drops to 29.4

2) trying to program the tach, it wont learn the tach wire. I tried all 4 tach options, car won't start

3)the remote wont start the car; it tries 3 times. If I start the car with the key during the remote trying, I can take the key out and the car stays running

4) the lights don't flash with the remote, although the lock/unlock does work

5) The diagnostics doesn't show any blinking LED (although that may be because the parking light isn't connected properly for some reason)

I don't know how many of these issues are related, but any help is welcomed!

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AYS

Here is the info on the Defoster. You will have to program the Avital 4105 2nd Status to Latched Defrost, Menu 2, Feature 8, Option 2.
Rear Defrost    VIOLET/GREEN (- LATCHED)      @ BCM WHITE 34 PIN CONN, PIN 26
A direct connection from the 4105 is OK.

Did you get the R/S to function? A few nthought being as you didn't post your wiring...

That car has two Ignition wires, two Starter wires and one Accessory wire. The 4105 can support all but one of those wires from the heavy gauge harness. Did you power all the ignition wires separately? Did you use a 30/40 Amp APDT relay to support the extra Starter or Ignition wire?

How are you controlling the 556UW ( assumption again, not mentioned ) bypass module?   I've seen a lot of posts that tried touse the GWA signal instead of the (-) Status Output signal. You could check to see if the R/S is OK ( just a bypass issue ) by placing a key in the ignition switch, but not turned, and initiating a R/S.

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Soldering is fun!

You need to find a correct tach wire.

How are your parking lights connected?

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

Thank You Kreg357, that was a fast response!

I hooked up both red to the cars white 12v constant

The pink wire to the cars green ignition 1 wire

The pink/white to the cars blue 2nd ignition wire

The purple to the cars black/white starter wire

The car has a second starter, but the heavy gauge harness had no wire for it. I did not use any relays
Im using a Bavine (sold on Amazon) key in the box. Im using the heavy harness red wire to power it and the blue status output on the 4 pin harness to send the signal.
I did try to R/S with the key in the ignition, but it did not start

Thank You

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AYS

I used the white wire on the main harness. My car diagram shows a positive parking wire and a negative parking wire. I tried both and got no results

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AYS

To power your second starter as kreg mentioned you need to use a relay. You can supply constant power to 30 and 86. 85 will go to your negative starter wire (if your unit has one), and 87 to the second starter wire in the car.

I meant what wire in the car did you connect for your lights. Did you test/verify with a meter first? Also, your unit should have a fuse or jumper to set the polarity for the parking lights. Make sure it's in the correct position. Hopefully the output isn't fried.

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

Here are the ignition wires :
Ignition #1   GREEN   IGNITION SWITCH WHITE 8 PIN CONN, PIN 1
Ignition #2   BLUE (+)   IGNITION SWITCH WHITE 8 PIN CONN, PIN 6
Accessory #1   YELLOW (+)   IGNITION SWITCH WHITE 8 PIN CONN, PIN 2
Starter #1   BLACK/WHITE   IGNITION SWITCH WHITE 8 PIN CONN, PIN 3
Starter #2   WHITE (+)   IGNITION SWITCH WHITE 8 PIN CONN, PIN 7

You need to power the Starter2 wire using a 30/40 Amp SPDT relay. Wiring shown below :
Relay Pins 86 and 87 to White +12V Constant thru 30 Amp fuse
Relay Pin 30 to White (+) Starter ( might be White/Blue )
Relay Pin 85 to Avital thin PURPLE (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT

Be aware that there are possibly two White wires in the ignition switch harness, one is +12V constant and the other is Starter2.
Test to be sure. Here is a pin-out of that plug :



After you get the ignition wiring completed, you can test the bypass module again via a R/S. It is possible that the loop around the ignition switch needs to be re-positioned for best performance.

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Soldering is fun!

thank You so much Kreg357 and geepherder!

Im going to get working on that relay (always avoided them; they look scary). Do I go to a Lowes store or do i need to go to an Automotive store for the relay?

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AYS

Not sure where they are available. Probably an Auto parts store would be best. I get mine from an online distributor in lots of 100.
Try to get one with the 5 pin harness. It will make it easier to install. You could get a SPST relay with just 4 pins ( no Pin 87a ).
They will work for your application.

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Soldering is fun!

Unfortunately no body local had the correct one, i had to order from Amazon and it wont be here till next week (thats with Prime!!!)

Please don't run off on me before then, I need you guys!

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AYS

We'll be here.

Did you get the Parking Lights sorted out? I usually use the (-)Parking Light wire. You can use your DMM to locate this wire. Set to 20 V DC. Red test lead to +12V constant and Black test lead to suspect wire below :
PARKING LIGHTS ( - )    BLACK/BLUE (-)    @ HEADLIGHT Switch, WHITE 20-Pin Plug, Pin 18. The Headlight Switch plug is in the steering column. With a Subaru, make sure the Parking Lights come on as you might need to start the engine. When you put the Parking Light switch to ON, you will see +12V on the DMM. Next make sure the Avital 4105 Parking Light jumper geepherder mentioned is set to the (-) position. From the factory, they are usually in the (+) position. Diagram below :


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Soldering is fun!

My luck that my Avital came missing those 3 harnesses on the side view. I didn't realize I needed them, but Im going to have to get it from the seller

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AYS

The one for the Parking lights isn't a harness. It's just a little black plastic jumper that covers/shorts two of the three pins together. They can come loose from shipping but usually don't. Look closely to see if it's there and on the (+) side. If it's missing check the box or plastic bag. Otherwise you might find one on an old PC card or motherboard. The pin spacing is always the same.

Once the jumper is set, the 4105's White Parking Light output wire on the Main 9 Pin Harness will be connected to the vehicle (-) Parking Light wire.

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Soldering is fun!

Still looking for the tach wire. The wiring diagrams say its pin 51, 52, 53, and 54 behind the engine. i tried tapping to 54 and I don't think it was right. Looking on a Subaru forum it seems some say it is not correct. Some say there's a green wire behind the instrument cluster while others claim there isn't. Some say the only place to pick it up is by the ECU. I was wondering if any of you knows where it is. Its a 4 door sedan 2015 Subaru Impreza Automatic

Also, if anyone knows where the trunk latch wire is in the drivers side it would be helpful as the wiring diagram sends me inconveniently to the passenger kick

Thank You

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AYS

Thank You Kreg357, I found it; Ill let you know how it goes

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AYS

The Trunk Release can be found at the BCM but that is behind the Fuse Box. Here is the info :
Trunk Release    GREEN/RED (-)    BCM BLACK 35 PIN CONN, PIN 10

It might be easier to extend the 4105 Trunk Release wire with a piece of unused 4105 harness wire, like the Yellow (+) Ignition Output ( to alarm ) wire, via solder and heat shrink tube over to the PKP.

For the Tach, you can go to any F.I. non-common wire but they can be difficult to get to. I always use a bypass module that takes care of the transponder ( no lost/hidden key ), the alarm system and supplies a Tach signal.

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Soldering is fun!

Lights are working!!!!

Thanks; were one step closer

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AYS

I found a trunk latch wire that tests + on the DMM when pulsed with the Original car key fob. Can I use a relay to connect the R/S (-) red/white trunk latch wire to that wire?

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AYS

Perhaps. Some advanced testing might be in order. Do you have vehicle schematics available?   You might have located the (+) trunk motor solenoid wire. This wire would test as (+) and need to be wired up as a "5 wire REV" type. There are diagrams for this type in the Relays section. Personally, being as the (-) Trunk Release wire is so easy to locate in the PKP and does not require a relay, that's what I would use. Extending the 4105 Red/White Trunk Release wire is very easy ( cut, solder, insulate ) and you should have plenty of extra / unused wires on the 4105 available.

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Soldering is fun!

I got the relay wired up. Now the car remote starts the car but immediately shuts down (key in the ignition off). I don't think I have the correct tach wire. Is that the issue? Also, the system is giving me a constant flashing red light when I try to access the menu or try the diagnostics. Any idea why?

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AYS

Not sure I understand.

You have a "key in the box" bypass with a working key inside and the antenna loop around the ignition switch AND you are placing a working key in the ignition switch (but not turned ) when you try a R/S?



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Soldering is fun!

What happens when you try to remote start without the key in the ignition (just a key in the bypass)?

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

how did you hook up the key in the box? it's pretty simple, red goes to 12+, blk goes to ground, and blue will go to GWR

I see I was unclear. I am using the key in the box which I wired correctly. I was trying to say that I was having the same results when I leave a regular chipped key in the ignition so its not the key in the box thats the problem. The car starts and then immediately shuts down

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AYS

ok, got it going! The issue was the ring for the key in the box needs to be in front of the key cylinder , not behind it.

I set the tach for off and now it works well. I know its not ideal, but when will it not work without the tach wire hooked up, as now everything is working perfectly?

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AYS

There are 4 possible Engine Checking settings.   Here is DEI's short description of each :
Engine Checking Mode
1. VirtualTach: battery voltage drop/rise during cranking determines when the starter output is released. During runtime, constant voltage level is monitored to determine if the engine is running
2. Voltage: starter output during cranking is a programmed duration (Set in Cranking Time). During runtime, constant voltage level is monitored to determine if the engine is running
3. Off: starter output during cranking is a programmed duration (Set in Cranking Time). The remote start will keep the ignition/accessories active for the programmed runtime whether the engine is running or not
4. Tachometer: tachometer input signal during cranking and runtime to determine when the starter output is released and if the engine is running.

When you have it set to OFF, it uses the Fixed Crank Time setting ( Menu 2, Feature 4 ).   The problem here is that most engine crank time is different when they are hot, cold and with ambient temperature. If the time is too long and the engine is warm and the ambient temp is 95 degrees, you might get some unwanted over-crank. The reverse is true also - cold engine on a cold winter day will not start because the crank time is too short. Voltage and Virtual Tach have thier own short comings. Tach mode works best year round. The test for a Tach wire is DMM set to 20V AC, Black test lead to chassis ground and Red test lead to suspect wire. A F.I. or Spark Plug Coil is typical on newer enginges. The reading is around one volt and will rise slightly when the engine RPM's are raised to 3,000. Some brands and models of R/S units have difficulty using these weak signals, some work better on F.I.'s or coil packs.   You will have to locate a Tach wire, try to get the R/S to program and accept that signal. And the best test is over time to verify consistant reliable starts.

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Soldering is fun!

ok, Im going to keep trying to find that wire

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AYS

I finished the install. I just want to thank everyone that helped guide me through this. I couldn't have done it without you!

I'm off to start my next car , 2016 Hyundai Sonata. Any tips?

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AYS

Think I posted a Pictorial on that model Sonata. 2011 through 2016 should be the same. As a U.S. model, it shouldn't have a transponder based immobilizer system, so no bypass module needed.

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Soldering is fun!