Bulldog Remote Starter, 2006 Honda Odyssey

Hi,

I installed a bulldog remote starter on a 2006 Odyssey, On the vehicle wire chart, the parking light wire at the steering column shows negative. When I hooked up the wire I made the mistake of not turning the parking lights on, and the wire tested negative with the test light.

When trying to start the car with the RS for the first time, the parking lights didn't work at all. I then retested the wire and found that when I turn the parking lights on the test light shows the wire is negative (even though the wire chart says it should be positive). I changed the jumper polarity, however, the parking lights still never come on with the remote start system. When I use the original vehicle remote to un/lock the doors the parking lights flash normally.

If anyone can please help that would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance!

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D.A.

After I removed power from the unit for quite a while and changed the parking light jumper to positive the parking lights worked!

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D.A.

I installed a Bulldog remote start system which works better in tachless mode than in tach mode. When started in tach mode (after doing the tach learn programming) it will run for 5-7secs, then shut off, restart, run for 5-7secs, then shut off and continue this a number of times. On tachless mode it will start and run about 70% of the time.

(I'm pretty sure I connected to the correct F.I. wire, but if someone could share the F.I. wire colors for a 06 Odyssey, I would be able to verify that I have the right wire.)

Any ideas on the problem?

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D.A.

TACH     Any wire NOT YELLOW/BLACK (AC)     @ FUEL-INJECTOR

You can verify the correct wire using a voltmeter set to AC Voltage (set to around the 20V scale). Place the black (common) lead to ground, place the positive lead to the wire you are testing.
Start the car, and you should see an AC voltage that increases as you rev the engine.

Hope this helps.

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Lectric Guy

Not sure which Bulldog system you have, but my experience with the RS1100, RS1200 and RS1300 series units was that they had a hard time syncing up with Tach signals from F.I.'s and single spark plug coil's. They did OK with old style coil to distributor systems.

As an example, I remember a 2007 Honda CR-V with a RS1100 unit. It would learn the Tach of F.I. or Spark plug coil but fail to keep the engine running. Tachless Mode worked better - slight over crank when warm and would get the engine going on the second or third attempt with a cold engine on a below freezing day.

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Soldering is fun!

Thank you lectricguy for that information, I will measure the wire.

kreg357, that is also my short experience, this confirms my thoughts that it is better to keep it in tachless mode as tach mode never seemed to keep the engine running.

I appreciate your help guys!

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D.A.