GWR Wire Used for Keysense & Anti-Grind?

Installing remote start (CM900S) on a 2006 Honda Pilot. Added an Anti-grind relay and used CN3: Pin 4 "Status/Ground while running (GWR)" on the negative side of the coil (85). Can I use this same wire for my Keysense? Diodes necessary? I see in the CM900AS they provide separate wires for GWR & Anti-grind wires, but the controller I am using only supplies one. I understand they behave SLIGHTLY differently, but the GWR wire currently works for Anti-grind, I just realized I also need Keysense for this vehicle (I had been testing it with key in the ignition as my immbolilzer module has not arrived yet).

Thanks.

You will need to connect to the real keysense wire from the ignition switch.

I understand that but is it OK to share the same GWR wire that I am currently using for my Anti-grind relay?

If you are not using the CM900AS (-) Horn output and have the ability to re-assign POC#7 to GWR ( Option 5 ), you could use that for the needed Keysense. Cleaner install, no diodes, etc.

Better still, assign the unused Horn POC#7 to Starter Kill Option 29 and use that for the added relay. Then use POC#4 GWR for Keysense.

You need the OP-500 programmer or ADS USB cable to make the POC re-assignment.

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Soldering is fun!

I am using the (-) horn output unfortunately. Guess I will try splicing the GWR wire.

EDIT: FWIW, I do have the ADS cable. Also I am running the CM900S, not CM900AS

I am not using the (-) Parking Lights (POC 1). it looks like GWA & Starter Kill are avaiable on POC 6, DISARM (not horn, POC 7) which I am currently using to disable the oem alarm. I've never messed around with changing these so excuse me if I am understanding them incorrectly.

OK, CM900S.

The Special Option Group 2 chart can be deceiving. Basically you can re-assign any POC to any listed on the chart. You can even have several GWR's if you want. The fist column shows the Default setting.

Plug in the CM900S to the ABD USB cable / PC. Fire up the ADS Flash your module, sign in and select "Configure my Starter". Down at the bottom of the page you will see Special Option Group 2, Click on the pull down box for the un-used POC you want to re-assign, make your selection and click Save Now.

It kinda sucks that they don't include the CN4 harness. If you had that, it would free up Lock POC#2 and Unlock POC#3. That would give you some added flexibility. You might check to see if you have a harness with a connector that would fit in CN4. You only need those two pin positions, 4 & 5.

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Soldering is fun!

Thank you kreg. I will wire POC 1 to my Anti-grind relay and move the GWR to the keysense. Yes I may get a CN4 harness and move my door locks as I would like to try and hook up DEFROST in the future.

I have another question, if I wanted to use the factory fob for remote starting (lock, lock, lock) can I hook CN3: PIN 10 (-) trigger start input to the same pin as my (-) DOOR LOCK output?

It is possible to set up a 3X Lock remote start using the factory remotes. First you would set CM900S programming Feature 2-4 to Option 4. That would make the R/S look for 3 (+) or (-) Trigger Start inputs to initiate a R/S. Next would be connecting CN3 Pin 11 Pink wire to wire listed below. You should test this wire first to verify it and that there is a (+) pulse with each Lock command.

LOCK MOTOR WIRE     WHITE/BLUE (5-WIRE TYPE)     @ DRIVERS FUSEBOX, LIGHT GREEN 18-Pin Plug

Be advised that any three locks within a short time period will remote start the engine if the normal R/S requirements are met. ( Brake off, Hood closed, engine off, etc ) You could R/S the engine just by pressing the interior door lock switch 3 times in a row.

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Soldering is fun!

I purchased a Blade AL cartridge to move this along and finished the install. ended up setting the anti-grind relay to "STATUS" vs "STARTER KILL" as it would keep the relay energized when the system was armed, ie: not running. Only other issue I have now is the immobilizer light on the dash doesn't come on at all now. BLADE instructions call to cut the "security light" wire (which I assume is what i am calling the immobilizer light) and put one side to pin #20 and the other to pin #10 on the BLADE connector. I tried swapping the wires and same thing, is it possible I fried something? it remote starts without a key in the ignition now and starts normally by key but no immobilizer light. if i join the 2 Secuirty light wires together (like stock) the light operates normally. I'd this normal???

The Pin 10 and Pin 20 on the Blade cartridge are basically a SPDT relay pins 30 to 87a. Under normal, non-R/S conditions, the relay remains unenergized and there should be continuity between Pin 10 and 20. During a R/S, the Blade programming energizes the relay and opens the connection between pins 10 to 20. This allows the Security light to work normal but interrupts the Security Licht signal during a R/S. First remove the Blade cartridge and check to see that all the CM900 Blade pins are straight and undamaged. Then I would do a check on the White/Black and White/Red wires, checking for breaks or damage, possible the Blade harness is not fully seated? Next would be a Blade re-flash followed by a Factory Reset and then vehicle programming. It is possible the Blade AL is bad but that would be very rare.
As you noticed, the R/S will work, only the nuisance issue with the Security Light.

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Soldering is fun!

I reseated and reflashed the BLADE AL and remote start. Had continuity between pins 10 & 20.Found when connector was installed but no continuity. One of the pins in the connector was spread apart so fixed that. I had bought a ADS HA2 harness even though they claimed it didn't work for pilot. I had to reconfigure the ignition harnesses but did make it work. What I didn't notice was there was an inline 5 amp fuse for the Secuirty light supply that was blown! Replaced the fuse and the Secuirty light now works! Thank you for all the help kreg I really appreciate it!!!

Well everything has been working fine with the remote start, I do have 1 final issue/question. I have tried changing Option 1-1 Unlock before, Lock after starting. No matter what I set this option to (On, Off, Lock after start, etc) it will ALWAYS unlock before R/S and then lock when running. I am using ADS cable and changing options via the weblink. I want "Lock after start" only. Any thoughts?

If I'm not mistaken, the Pilot with Factory Alarm system, like most Hondas, can only be disarmed by the CM900S w/Blade via an Unlock command. It's just the way the Honda Factory Alarm system has to be handled. Typically it's just a few seconds where the car is unlocked during the R/S sequence. Don't think there is any way around it (without setting off the alarm).

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Soldering is fun!

just to clarify: the BLADE overrides the remote start setting, even though the lock/un lock & arm/disarm is handled by the remote start? just want to make sure I haven't done something wrong during install.

Well, after reviewing the CM900-S features, wiring and programming option tables it would appear that you should be able to control the Unlock Before Start issue via Option 1-01. The Default is OFF, which means that the CM900-s will not output an Unlock pulse prior to a R/S. Being as the Blade-AL cartridge is flashed with TB HA1 firmware, the Blade should only be concerned with the transponder bypass function. The Blade does not connect to any vehicle Data Bus system so it should not try to control the door locks.

I guess the next step is to know your actual wiring. Below are the typical wires needed and their connection points.



Next, I would double check the CM900-S to verify that Programming option 1-01 was indeed set to the Default, OFF. I have noticed that sometimes setting options online with the ADS USB cable does not "hold". Using the OP-500 programming always works and holds. If you don't have the OP-500, you can make changes to Groups 1 through 4 with your remotes. It's a tedious process but doable.

The troubleshooting aspect comes next. If the programming and wiring is correct, I would cut the connection from the CM900-s Unlock output to the vehicle and see what happens during a R/S. If the door still Unlocks then cut the Disarm output connection to see if that is causing the Unlock to happen. Be aware that the Honda Factory Alarm system will be triggered with a R/S.

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Soldering is fun!

So for the conclusion... I disconnected the LOCK and UNLOCK wires from the R/S. The ARM and DISARM wires will still lock and unlock the doors, along with the factory alarm system. This is why programming option 1-01 had no change. If I hooked up JUST the LOCK/UNLOCK wires, option 1-01 would work (in this case I had it set to OFF so the locks would stay in whatever state they were left in). So it was the factory ARM/DISARM wires that were unlocking the doors before and locking during a remote start.

Some things to note:
- If the vehicle is remote started Secuirty will NOT be armed. This is the exact way it works when you key start it.
- factory alarm takes about 30 seconds to arm. I found this out by unlocking a door with the window down after I went in the house to grab something.

Thanks again kreg, have learned lots. Last time I installed a R/S was 14 years ago.