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Alpine 8025 Removal, 1994 Ford F-250

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=146501
Printed Date: April 28, 2024 at 11:35 PM


Topic: Alpine 8025 Removal, 1994 Ford F-250

Posted By: patricksull
Subject: Alpine 8025 Removal, 1994 Ford F-250
Date Posted: October 19, 2020 at 2:04 PM

Hello

I have a 1994 ford f250 that had this alarm in it. I removed the alarm and am now having trouble. Crank but no start. I have read in other posts that most older alarms don't go beyond the ignition switch (doesn't mess with fuel pump, injection, etc). I need help troubleshooting. There was no ignition wire that I found that was cut and a relay placed in between. Instead wires spliced into the existing wires. So, the simple solution of removing the relay and reconnecting the ignition wires to factory isn't an option. One relay was next to the unit itself, and a second relay was next to the solenoid. posted_image posted_image posted_image posted_image posted_image

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newbie



Replies:

Posted By: mgoetz74
Date Posted: October 19, 2020 at 4:04 PM
12 Volts     yellow     +               
Starter     red/lt. blue     +               
Ignition     red/lt. green     +               
Accessory     gray/yellow and black/green +               
Second Accessory     gray/yellow 18awg    +

make sure you have power using a meter at these wires. You may have popped a ignition fuse. Id put money on something ignition/accessory. There shouldn't be immobilizer in that old of a truck     

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33 years as a installer now just a retired old guy. Favorite thing to install/topic are remote starts/car alarms. Stop using test lights!!!




Posted By: patricksull
Date Posted: October 19, 2020 at 5:57 PM
Okay, thanks. I'll check those.

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newbie




Posted By: patricksull
Date Posted: October 20, 2020 at 12:32 PM
Not sure about the colored wires you listed. I'll have to dig into the steering column. But, what I did find is of the spliced wires, the black with pink is 12v. The black with orange is 12v. The solid brown will go 12V which I crank. The yellow with brown will go 12V when I turn the ignition on (not cranking).

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newbie




Posted By: patricksull
Date Posted: October 20, 2020 at 1:30 PM
Well, there are 4 yellow and 2 gray with yellow. Really tight fit in there. Most have 12v to them. One of the grey with yellow shows 12v with ignition on. The red with green is the same. Sorry, I'm not very good with the voltage meter. Some of them shoot up to 50, but it's digital, so the numbers are bouncing all over. I just touch the ground terminal to the door frame?

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newbie




Posted By: geepherder
Date Posted: October 20, 2020 at 4:48 PM
You shouldn't have any readings above battery voltage. It may be that your meter is showing something in the millivolt range instead of volts. If this is the case, you should check your fuses (both in the cab and under the hood).

Also, I like to use the rim (outer portion) of the cigarette lighter output as a ground while testing.

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.




Posted By: patricksull
Date Posted: October 20, 2020 at 9:16 PM
geepherder wrote:

Also, I like to use the rim (outer portion) of the cigarette lighter output as a ground while testing.
Good to know. Yeah, I am horrible with a voltage meter. So much you can do with those things IF you know how to use them. Okay, I'll try to redo my readings. Thank you...

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newbie





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