2016 Subaru Outback, Remote Start Installation

Trying to install a remote starter (Avital 4115) and really only want the minimal functionality

I've tried to connect all of the safety items: Parking Brake, Hood latch, Brake Pedal, as well as those that seemed necessary for the remote start: chassis ground, +12V (40A), Acc, Starter, and ignition.

Do I need to hook in to the factory alarm for the starter to work, or is this just for added features? Same question for the door locks?
On the same 8-pin connector at the ignition switch there are two more small gauge wires, another +12v and a 2nd Starter wire. Do I need to hook into these? The Avital does not have a place for a 2nd starter wire, do I need to get a 12v relay and switch it with the first starter wire (heavy gauge)?
The ignition switch has a second 2-wire connector for key-sense, but the Avital doesn't seem to ask for this? Do I need an Immobilizer bypass? is there one that I can program DIY? if not, would a shop be willing to do it for a system they didn't install?

I've filled out the wiring template with all of the AVital connections and for those that are connected in the car. I don't see an attachment function on this forum, please find it here: Onedrive Link

Thanks

You will need to use the key sense and immobilizer bypass.
You can test what you have done so far in order to answer your other questions - put a key in the ignition switch (in the "OFF" position) and try to remote start.

I see, that means I likely have made another mistake, I've tried that and the car does not crank, although it does show 12V on the Starter wire when it's trying to start. I'll try hooking the 2nd small guage starter wire with a relay first and see if that helps, then I will look into the alarm and door input/outputs.

I saw on a video from another car that when the immobilizer is blocking the car from starting it will still crank but wont start/run. Is this generally true for all cars?

Adding the second starter wire using a relay did not help, nor did having the key in.

I think the most likely culprit left is that I have tapped into a poor E-brake wire. it has teh correct polarity, going from 12V when ebrake off, to ground when ebrake on, however it isnt a perfect ground, it actually reads 130 ohms to ground and +0.25v when the ebrake is on. I am wondering if this is not good enough. Does anyone know a good place to pick up this wire in a 5th gen Outback?

It this a manual trans car ? Where did you connect the black/white parking brake wire ?

Also on the second start there is a purple on the 4 pin satellite harness that is meant to run a relay for the second starter

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Can anyone tell me where to pick up this signal? I though I had found an acceptable wire on the connector for the parking break button itself but the starter is not working and the diagnostic function is pointing to a bad parking break signal.

If someone has a diagram or experience with this vehicle I would appreciate the help.

Typically, the full feature bypass module supplies this signal ( gathered from the CAN Bus ) but I did find this info :

Parking Brake     White/Green (electric parking brake indicator)   (-)       electric parking brake switch, White 12 pin plug, pin 12

I'm guessing you are doing a R/S on a manual transmission Outback?

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Soldering is fun!

It's an Automatic, but otherwise yes, that's correct.

The wire you mention is the one that I have connected to, I hoped that there might be another because the behavior seems right at first (+12v when parking break off, 0v when on) however with the parking break on it still reads 130ohm to ground, so it should be enough for a logic (-) but it's not exactly a clean ground either.

Here are the connections I've made. I don't have the immobilizer bypassed so I have been trying to test it with the key in the ignition. Do you have any other suggestions?

Here is how the 4115 main ignition harness should look :
Heavy gauge relay wiring diagram
1 RED...................... (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12 INPUT............WHITE (30A)   IGNITION SWITCH WHITE 8 PIN CONN, PIN 4
2 PINK/WHITE...... (+) PROGRAMMABLE OUTPUT FOR ACC OR IGN...............BLUE (+)   IGNITION SWITCH WHITE 8 PIN CONN, PIN 5    set to IGN2
3 RED...................... (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT............WHITE (30A)   IGNITION SWITCH WHITE 8 PIN CONN, PIN 4
4 ORANGE............. (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY CIRCUIT..........YELLOW (+)   IGNITION SWITCH WHITE 8 PIN CONN, PIN 2
5 PURPLE.............. (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO STARTER CIRCUIT............WHITE/BLACK (+)   IGNITION SWITCH WHITE 8 PIN CONN, PIN 3
6 PINK.................... (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO IGNITION CIRCUIT.......GREEN (+)   IGNITION SWITCH WHITE 8 PIN CONN, PIN 1

You will need an external 30/40 Amp SPDT relay for the required Starter2 wire. Here is that wiring :
Relay for Starter2 circuit
Relay Pin 85 to 4115 ORANGE (-) Starter Output
Relay Pins 86 and 87 to WHITE (30A)   IGNITION SWITCH WHITE 8 PIN CONN, PIN 4 through 20 Amp fuse
Relay Pin 30 to GREEN/RED (+)   IGNITION SWITCH WHITE 8 PIN CONN, PIN 7
Relay Pin 87a not used - insulate

If your Outback has an automatic transmission and the engine won't start unless the transmission selector is in Park or Neutral, you can connect the 4115 Black/White Neutral Safety wire to Chassis Ground.

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Soldering is fun!