2010 Honda Ridgeline, CM900, Fortin SL3, Alarm Goes Off When Started

Hello,

After installing the CM-900 in my 2010 Honda Ridgeline i have a slight problem. For the bypass I am using the Fortin Honda-SL3. Installing the bypass unit went smooth. No issues and was able to pair with the master key of the truck. The issue now is that when I start the truck with the remote start the factory/OEM alarm turns on. Is hooking up the arm/disarm on the CM-900 going to fix that? After doing some research I figured out that I should have really purchased the Fortin Evo-All so I can remain control with the factory FOB after remote starting with the CM-900.
The only wires I am using on the CM900 are the main wires which start the engine (CN1 Main Harness, cables 1: Red (+) 12V Constant, 3: Red/White (+) 12V Constant, 4: White (+) Accessory, 6: Yellow (+) 12V Starter and 8: Black (-) Ground. The truck starts with no problems, all of my accessories work with no problems.

On the CN3 Harness I am using: 9: Light Blue/White (+) Foot Brake input and 4: Black (-) Status Output (blue wire from the fortin is attached to that one).

I then connected the Fortin to the CM900 using the CN5 RS232 port.

The issue I am having is that when I start the truck with the remote starter the factory/OEM alarm turns on. I have to shut the truck off with the remote start and then use the OEM fob to unlock it to stop it from honking. The main point of my installation is to start the truck with the remote start, unlock it with the OEM remote, get in turn the key, press the brake to take over the remote start system.   

The next attempt I am going to do is to hook up the arm/disarm on the CM-900 along with the lock/unlock function on the CM-900 to the truck. If my theory is correct then the CM-900 brain should disarm the factory alarm, start the truck and then lock the doors. I will then get to the truck use the remote start remote to unlock it, turn the ignition on, press the brake and then over ride the system. Does anyone who has experience with the CM-900 can confirm that this will work or should I just give up and buy the Fortin Evo-All and move on? I understand now that the SL3 is just an immobilizer bypass and it has no way of talking to the can line...

Thanks.

Did the CM900-s come with a remote kit? From the wires you listed that were used, I'm guessing that it did. Are the Compustar remotes 1 button or 4 button remotes?

It's common for Honda's to ignore the factory remotes while the engine is running but with the CM900-s remotes you can set things up to use the Compustar remotes to lock and unlock the vehicle even while the engine is running. Just a few more wires to connect.

As for the factory alarm going off with a remote start, that's normal and easily corrected by connecting a few more wires and setting the CM900-s to "unlock before and lock after" a remote start. See Option 1-01 Setting II You will have to run a couple of wires into the drivers door through the flexible door boot.

Here are the vehicle wires you need :
Lock     PINK\BLACK (-)   DASH FUSE BOX GREEN 30 PIN CONN, PIN 25
Unlock   PINK\BLUE (-)      DASH FUSE BOX GREEN 30 PIN CONN, PIN 9
OEM Alarm Arm        BLUE\WHITE (-)   POWER WINDOW MAIN SWITCH WHITE 23 PIN CONN, PIN 8
OEM Alarm Disarm     BLACK\RED (-)    POWER WINDOW MAIN SWITCH WHITE 23 PIN CONN, PIN 21

Another wire I would highly recommend connecting is the Hood Pin. It is a very important safety feature. Being as your truck has the Factory Alarm system, it should have the factory hood pin. Here is that info : Hood Pin   YELLOW\RED (-)   HOOD SWITCH

Being as you are running the Hood Pin wire into the engine compartment, why not run the CM900-s Tach wire to this wire : Tach Signal   NOT YELLOW\BLACK   @ ANY FUEL INJECTOR
Set to Tach Mode and do a Tach Learn. Running in Tach Mode will provide consistent engine start ups, even in very cold weather. See Option 2-10 Setting II

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357,

I guess I should have been a little bit more specific when I said I am using the CM-900. I actually end up buying the Compustar CS1900-S kit, it comes with the CM-900 brain, both wire harnesses (CN1 Main Harness and the CN3 Harness,) 2 single button remotes, one remote is the true 2,000ft 2 way remote and the other one I believe is the 1500ft 1 way remote (I believe the actual kit number for the remotes is Compustar RF-2WR3-FM). The entire system cost me less that $100 on ebay and it was new in the box.

As far as running extra wires in the door and under the hood I am not worried about that. It's a pretty simple task. Based on your recommendations I will have to run at least 4 more wires for the lock/unlock and arm/disarm to solve my current problem with no OEM remote functionality and the alarm going off after the remote start. As far as the hood pin you are correct. The factory alarm actually uses the hood latch as one of the sensors when it arms the system. When it comes to the Tach wire as of right now I basically using the preloaded settings for a "tachless" start. I did notice that the system will add an additional crank time with each start if the engine does not start. I am definitely going to set the tach wire as well. Not sure what you mean by "NOT YELLOW\BLACK   @ ANY FUEL INJECTOR"? I am also using the factory OEM shop manual and the wires at each injector are:

1 YEL/BLK (Power source for PCM circuit)
2 BRN (Control (INJ1))

I assume you are talking about the Yel/Black wire?

Either way thank you for the guidance. This is my first time using a the Compustar systems as well as the Fortin bypass modules. I am actually pretty impressed with the little CM-900 unit and all the features it offers. May be I should have used Blade All with the CM-900 instead of the Fortin bypass? It seems like it will do the same work as the Fortin Evo-All and I would have been able to have just one one box under the dash instead of 2 and it looks like the Blade harness utilizes the CN2 port. May that way the CM-900 brain will ultra happy when using the Blade and I will actually get the OEM fob to work when started with the remote start. Once again thanks for the info. I will report back once I get the rest of the wires hooked up.

That's a good deal on the CS1900 system.

Yep, Tachless will try to start the engine 3 times, adding crank time each attempt. Running in Tach Mode is much better in colder climates. Yes, the Brown wire at F.I.#1 is a tach source.

Don't think going to a Blade AL will help with keeping the factory remote working while the engine is running. I usually hot glue the bypass module to the R/S controller during bench prep. Keeps thing neat.

Good luck!

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Soldering is fun!