What Remote Starts Are Compatible With ADS ALCA D2D

I'm not sure why this info is so hard to find.

What Remote starts are compatible with ADS ALCA D2D serial port? Looking to make less wire splices.

Car is a 09 ford focus with only one key. If you have Remote start + bypass combo that would work better I'm all ears

Do you have the capability to flash the ADS AL-CA yourself? This would require the ADS USB cable and iDatalink site Logon access.

If yes, you can flash the ADS AL-CA with either the ADS or DBI version of the needed firmware. DBI version firmware would allow use with most DEI units.

If you don't have this capability, you could use a Prestige remote start system and make a R/S programming change from DBI to ADS for the D2D comm you want. Please note that some new or low end Prestige units only do DBI D2D comm. A nice basic R/S system with 1,500 foot range, 3 button remotes that can handle ADS D2D is the APS57Z system.

Just noticed that you mentioned only one working key for the Focus. In that case, you must use the KLON programming process to handle the transponder bypass. KLON programming requires the use of the ADS USB cable and iDatalink WEB site access.

As for ADS D2D, the Compustar systems that use the CM900 control unit are iDatalink ADS D2D compatible. A CS4900-s kit would be a good choice if longer range and a 2-Way remote were important. Other Compustar systems that use the older CM7x000 and CM6x000 controllers support ADS D2D communications, too.

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Soldering is fun!

I used to do remote starts/alarm back in the day stopped doing it because people only wanted to charge $100. And I'm sorry the risk to reward ratio is not there anymore.

*I'm 90% sure I have the flasher I'll confirm.
*I just checked and My idatalink login still works.
*Yup the car only ever came with one key.

Back when I was doing this, D2D was not working yet and I find it puzzling that idatalink does not say what Remote starts work D2D with their bypass.

Range is not much of an issue as they are all going to be way better than the OE but price and time are (it's a gift for x-mas And I need to be in and out in under 3 Hours)

I used to do remote starts/alarm back in the day stopped doing it because people only wanted to charge $100. And I'm sorry the risk to reward ratio is not there anymore.
Not much has changed...    :(

*I'm 90% sure I have the flasher I'll confirm.
*I just checked and My idatalink login still works.
If you have the ADS USB cable you're all set. With the cable, I'd go with a Compustar CS4900-s system and your ADS AL-CA flashed with ADS AL(DL)-FM2 firmware.

Back when I was doing this, D2D was not working yet and I find it puzzling that idatalink does not say what Remote starts work D2D with their bypass.
D2D works pretty good now. It will work fine with your application because it really doesn't do all that much. Only bypass and supplies the Brake, Tach signal and the Hood Pin ( if factory equipped ).

Getting in and out in 3 hours might be a challenge. Bench prep everything, flash the bypass and set the R/S programming options ahead of time.
Use the (+) Parking Light wire at the BCM, not the (-) Parking Light wire.

You can check out the iDatalink iDatastart Install Guide for some additional info on wires used and wire location :
https://images.idatalink.com/vehicle-install-guides/Guides/462/341/6575/EN/RSA-FO1A-[CMHCXA0]-(Ford_Focus_2009_6575)-EN_20200921_094800.pdf

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Soldering is fun!

Looks like I'm going to use an CS4900-s and A Blade-AL this is a slick combo

Yep, nice compact package. The Blade AL is basically the same as the ADS AL-CA for this install. Saves space and a wire connection or two.

You can verify that the CM900-S is at the latest firmware level and set its' programming options when you flash the Blade AL with the FM2 firmware.

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

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Getting in and out in 3 hours might be a challenge. Bench prep everything, flash the bypass and set the R/S programming options ahead of time.
Use the (+) Parking Light wire at the BCM, not the (-) Parking Light wire.

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Why on the park light? I think with bench prep (like I usually do) I could do it lol

Never mind I see the relay

Thanks everyone, I was in and out in 3 Hours flat, all connections soldered and shrink-wrapped, I really appreciate everyone's help. Only hiccup I had was on the transponder wires as the position was flipped and the wire colors were switched too lol had to guess it lol.